MOTOR-TALK

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  • 1st Germany-wide Kawasaki meeting 2011 !

    For all motorcycle brands “open” meeting with large frame program – among others dealer mile – LIVE band – exit – trophies – biker games – DJ – ect. date: Whitsun 2011 Friday 10.06.2011 – Monday 13.06.2011 More information about the meeting:http://www.NRW-Zephyr-Treffen.dehttp://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5240500943_36a4f56e68_z.jpg

  • Electrical

    Is there someone out there with a DT 175 MX that could give me some support? I rebuilt my current sweetheart and after frame painting also installed a wire harness that was better in shot than the original. I would have to know now how concretely the turn signal works and I am the type that cannot talk to schematics. So here’s my question: How can I test if I did everything right. I almost suspect that a turn signal test without running engine at the 6 Volt toy doesn’t work anyway… So here’s my first question If I put the rear turn signals together on “Plus” with the relay pulled off, then both lamps would have to light up, right? Battery is charged. Can it be that the toy battery can’t make both bulbs glow simultaneously? PS: Oil control, idle light and everything else works as it should. Ignition sparks also there LG usch

  • Kawasaki he 5 Twister, turns up normal, but no power

    Hi, I ran overland with my he5 when she suddenly started spinning at 100. She had a few misfires, a little jerked. She turns up quite normally, but it simply lacks the power. As if she had only half as much PS. Spark plugs are ok. Runs also on both cylinders. Tank is also full. Has someone a advice. Knows someone the problem or something. mfg basti21

  • Kawasaki gpz 600 r

    Have a problem and just find no solution … I bought the bike a short time ago and brought it back to run after longer standing time I changed candles and oil and cleaned the carburetor She ran perfectly and drove back without any problems to the TÜV and after she is now registered I wanted to do a splash trip Not even 5 min later Fing to oil the machine … Only with running machine the oil drips … So towed and parked today w should I start it again to clean up to see where the oil is running … But now it doesn’t start anymore

  • What can that be?

    Hi people! The old (GPZ) is stressing again. Had the same problem before about 300km: overflow of gaser 1u.2 dripped and it ran only on three pots. So the gaser bench out, sometimes in the float chambers looks et voila dirt between float valve Gaser1. Today (300km later) full gas on highway, highway descent down and again it ran only on 3 pots + fuel in overflow 1u.2. From where can the crap come? No rust in the tank to see, fuel filter is also installed & clean, Schwi Since these are the same signs as the last time, I assume that there is something between the valve again, but where can it come from? Had an old air filter that crumbled, but that rather gets into the engine and not into the float chamber. I have no idea what’s going on. Please help me! Greet Patrick

  • Financial experts: Are leasing conditions cheap?

    Since I have already fallen on my nose several times in relation to the residual value, I now think about leasing (kilometer calculation). The whole becomes more calculable for me, since I do not have to worry about the later payment. The cars, the higher the additional equipment is, are, as a percentage of the list price less worth. The whole additional equipment is not taken into account to the same extent as the list price and thus pushes the percentage rest. In the private market, my vehicles usually cannot be marketed, since the residual value is still too high when sold. So I am forced to pay my used vehicle to the dealer. So even now and thus for me a leasing would only be possible with the manufacturer bank. Geleast is to be a Volvo V70 to the following basic data: Leasing agreement with mileage invoice LP 50,000 Euro gross down payment 20% leasing rate 450 Eu ro grosso LZ 48 months KM 100,000 would therefore pay about 31,000 euros for the period of 4 years. Hardly believe that I would get rid of the car to the residual value again. That would be, in relation to the list price, at 19,000 euros. Even if I would now consider a discount of 10%, still a residual value of 14,000 euros would be. This amount will probably not get me again or only hard, since on the private market nobody would pay me a 4 year old car with the running leist This is my experience so far. In my opinion, therefore, I do not have a large cost by leasing, avoid a capital commitment by cash payment and have no risk regarding the residual value. A financing would not be possible for me, since I do not want to keep the vehicle after the 4 years. Then I could also choose the cash payment option.Ha Am I missing something?

  • Leasing offer for Seat Ibiza (at Sixt)

    Hello, I would like to lease a Seat Ibiza 1.6 16V Comfort Edition 5-door with 77KW/105 hp (Super lead-free). Since I still did not have my own insurance and could only take over an insurance with SF 1/2 (140 %), I would be interested in the offer with Sixt with the flat-rate insurance. (Since this seems to be much cheaper for me) I have added extra equipment and come according to Sixt to a list price of 18.33€ (incl. VAT). on 54 monts and 10,000km of mileage per year (in case of mileage billing) I get the following conditions: Advance payment of 20% of the list price = 3666€ (including VAT) Delivery/approval costs = approx.800€ (including VAT) monthly rate = 249.92€ (including VAT) The monthly rate is inclusive of all-inclusive package insurance (from Sixt), which is 89.25€ (including VAT) per month alone, including maintenance/wear and a protection against small damages that reduce the residual value would not be able to repererate because of the same retention (= FAirbag Plus). So, now to my questions: 1) Do you think that this is a good offer? Or do you think I get away with another (serious) supplier or with a dealer even cheaper? 2) Are there other costs besides the costs of taxes, petrol, tyres and any repairs, if I don’t drive more than 10,000km per year? 3) Does anyone know if you still have any problems with Sixt? a little bit? (I don’t actually assume, but you never know *g*) Thank you for answers and help! Sirstepfen

  • Can the dealer do that?

    Hello, here’s what I’d like to do with an e90 330d lease. At the moment, I have an Audi A4, which he’s supposed to take into account. Now, however, there’s an amount of €250 to be paid off at the Audi Bank (normally until the next year – small installments) I could now pay off the amount and let me hand it over to the car letter, then he could take it into payment. However, I’m not quite as liquid at the moment and that would take a few months until I get the amount to a Does he have the possibility to transfer the remaining instalments to the Audi Bank and give them with the rest? Then I would have to wait net and he would have no financial disadvantage either. If someone says now then I should rather not lease 330d, I get more net in 2 months. Thank you

  • Financed car with guarantor total damage!

    Hello! I hope I’m right here and describe my problem!I had an unindebted accident, whereby my car(Fiat Stilo Kombi Bj2003) suffered a total damage! The car is fully financed and the loan is still running for 4 years. Residual debt approx.8000€. My EX girlfriend vouched for the car and since we still understand each other very well, I pay my installments every month.I have now commissioned an expert and see what he sets in value. Can I use the money from the insurance company to buy a new car and continue to pay the instalments or ask the bank to replace the loan, because there will be a residual value of the vehicle and to sell the scrap car, I need the letter. I would like to use the rest and scrap value to buy a new vehicle and continue to service the loan, but the bank has no more security except my guarantor! Thank you for your help!!!

  • Showcar buy plus extras – negotiation strategy

    Hello together! I would like to buy a Volvo V50, which has run as a demonstration car. I would like to extend the car with some useful extras such as removable coupling. I will pay the car literally cash. Is it advisable to haggle the price first and then, if necessary, to trade the extras or vice versa? I am grateful for relevant information. Greeting Matze