MOTOR-TALK

Blog

  • “Mercedesprofi” and the consequences on my w126

    After convincing arguments, I had my 500se set up the hydropunch at a Berlin mercedes specialist. after convincing arguments, I had the chain + grinders made for 2000,- follow (at approx. 200tkm) since the following are: + climate is no longer possible + belt too tight + lines bent that are jetz leaking + tool in the engine room forgotten. + helical screw torn down + minor errors like protective caps forgot the belt could be set myself, however probably the troubleshooting of the climate becomes quite complex, and what really nerds me is the clacking of the defective curved seal. and the best thing is that the torn screw on the side of the driver is in the last corner and I can’t get there to turn them out. what can you do against this joint purely legally and how can I get the screw out? mfg ben

  • Unknown Problem: Window Lifter W126

    Hello together, despite the search I found unfortunately no solution for my problem. It is about an E-window lifter. The driver side window lifter front was defective (broken teeth). The replacement has impeccable teeth, is nicely greased and works perfectly in the developed condition (completely up and down). I then installed the new window lifter: a) Right lifter screwed to the right rail b) Left lifter inserted into the left rail; directly left at the Kan t the white “plastic part” (so that the window does not stand crooked and has straight running?) used c) Both remaining arms screwed (left or left at the top of the window lifter) d) window lifter itself 3x screwed however The problem is the following: The window goes down from the very top (too) about a hand width and vice versa. However, more does not work. You also notice quite clearly that with each piece down (window on) the engine has less power. I also noticed that The left guide tries to turn itself. If the window goes up again, everything is okay again. You don’t see or feel it hooks somewhere. Fortunately, I don’t have the usual “defect” on rails or the like. Somewhere the worm seems to be, especially the addressed white plastic part which sits on the left of the left arm in the rail. Maybe it doesn’t belong there at all? Would be great if someone could help. lg

  • Purchase S-class W126, and of course ask

    Hello dear W126 municipality! I looked at the days a few w126er, 500 SEL and 500 SE 420 SE were exhibited, and for my terms actually quite good, chic cars, and the *Haben-Will-fort* reflex was strongly pronounced. Only at the price I was not really sure, as well as with the equipment. I thought cruise control and automatic would have always been in the class? At least the cruise control seems to have been extra, even at the 500 SE? My favourites: 42 0 SE: 153,700 km, 224 hp (??) allegedly from factory so??, 1 1990, leather grey and e seats (without mem) and without tempomat: 650€ with 24 months warranty (!!!) service new, tuv au also. 500 SEL: 144,600 km, 223 hp, 2 1986, leather, sliding roof, 4x e windows, e seats front seat heating: 6700€ 24 months warranty, service, tuv au new. 500 SEL: 231,200 km, 223 hp, 2 1987, velour seat without tempomat, push roof: 5400€ again service made, tuv au new, and 24 months warranty 500 SEL: 152,800 km, 252 hp, 7 1988, leather, e seats, tempomat, sliding roof, air conditioning automatic: 7700€ as before, service tüv and au new also guarantee Are the realistic prices? Cars are top there, no rust (checklist of the mercedes club had with it..), partly book kept, and stop with 24 months guarantee! (which I find already crass at cars are 20 years old, become.. ; )) I also like the mileage, or not too much for a V8 of Benz. What do you think?

  • SL 55 AMG import from USA ???

    Hello, would like to buy a Mercedes SL 55 AMG from my uncle soon. The car would cost me about 25000 €. Now is my question: What costs would be added to the purchase price and are there any tricks on how to avoid these costs or save yourself ??? Have heard that there are taxes and VAT or similar. If someone can help me further, I would be very grateful. Thank you Sakis

  • CL 500 Corrosion

    Hello, have bought a CL 500 BJ 12/2002 W 215 used almost 2 years ago at 33,500 km for 40,000 €. Now I read before the next service in the inspection booklet that in 05/2006 a body repair took place at 31,5000 km. On request at the branch I was informed that it would have been only painting work for the elimination of corrosion damage (no accident). Probably the corwing was affected at the rear and the C-pillar. If I knocked off the left C-pillar e sounds different than the right. My questions: Where does corrosion come from after 3-4 years with a car that has a new price of over 100,000 € and do I have to worry?? Thanks for opinions and comments.

  • Getz – Loss of power and jerking – Werkstadt detects no error

    Hello together! I have with my Getz BJ 11/09 since the first oil change at 1,000km the problem that he always jerks again. It feels like he’s running undertoury, but he doesn’t do it, even if you switch from the 4th gear to the 3rd gear at 3,000 revolutions he always bumps over the streets. Meanwhile it is so bad that I don’t come from the spot in the morning when the motot is cold anymore. He takes garkei gas more, so that I have to drive at some point to the right. The problem is that I have already driven 30km on the highway and the engine should actually be warm (see that unfortunately the Getz doesn’t have any indication). It feels like someone is kicking me on the brake… The engine warning light flashes every time, but doesn’t stay on. At the beginning, according to the factory town, I should just push it “only” and the warning light just hits w Then my car was there for a long time but could not find anything, since my warning light no longer shines permanently, but only flashes… Strange! Mistakes could not be read out either… I feel like I’m being completely fucked up! I have already mentioned the crankshaft problem, I would only be smiled at, “where I would have been here…” After I had to stop again today, since I blocked the highway at 40kmh, I have a My guarantee expires in November and I don’t want to sit on the problem!!! If someone has a tip on how to keep on acting if I’m now told that no mistake was found. Thank you in advance!

  • Purchase of a new i20 BJ 2013 / Motoroelwechsel if older than one year

    Hi dear Hyundai connoisseurs, We are just on vacation in Poland and with a local Hyundai connoisseur one has found a new i20, BJ 2013, at a good price, which we would like to have seen as a second car with us. The problem, the car is BJ 2013, and is still with the first motoroel, though never run. The Haendler says that no motoroel change is necessary! And I can drive quietly so? My humble knowledge, however, tells me that Motoroel, what is older than a year, MUSS wec Well, the contractor doesn’t want to hear any of this unless I ask for it at my own expense. I contacted Hyundai Motor Poland by telephone and was simply informed by the Damme’s answer. My question has been answered by repeated, innocuous phrases that the contractors have exact instructions??? What do you think? Must the motoroel, which is older than a year, be changed, and at what cost must be at what cost? s this be done? Thank you for all the competent answers. dt

  • Hyundai i10 from 2013 – Where to go with Navi and Smartphone

    Moin, I’m interested in your solutions where you attach or store in the i10 Navi and smartphone. Personally, I don’t like any disc mounts, either center console or A-sail. Currently, I have my mobile Garmin Navi in the middle compartment very well accommodated, lasts perfectly and is still good to see (see photos). My iPhone, on the other hand, is quite unfavorable in the center console, here I wait for a Brodit mount that will be available soon. I bought an adapter for the 12V ignitor so that I can load my mobile phone via one connection and the Navi via the other. What are your solutions and suggestions?

  • Puch (Mercedes) G 300GE

    Hello! My puch (Mercedes) 300 GE jerks every now and then while driving. After longer observation I can say that it is only when climbing up and you feel it in the low touring area. I think it should be something with the fuel supply, from the feeling it is similar like when you forget to turn on the petrol tap on old motorcycles, or the tank gets empty. Momentary facts # 300 GE, 6 cylinder petrol # when climbing up # petrol filter changed – no Ä change # spark plugs changed – nice candle picture – no change # associated with it also a quiet buzzing that goes with the jerking and is audible when driving slowly # is not always the case, often several days without problems, then again isolated # a connection with the tank filling level could not be recognized so far What would you close now?

  • Suitable for everyday use Semislick – Cupra

    Hello, after I finally found the right tyre pressure for my winter tires, the question for the next summer arises: Which new summer tires should be? I tend to find Semislicks very great, however, I doubt that these bring me more disadvantages than advantages… I drive 70% highway, 10% city and 20% country road. The goal of the new tires should be that you can drive several laps track, country roads etc. – Without having to go through everything at the front T how crazy. Cupra, 300 HP, front-cracker I thought about Federal… Would that be what? I know that Semis are very bad in the rain. I’m also willing to drive only 80, have no problem with it… Somewhere you always have to make cuts, I know that… Thank you for the answers!