Blog

  • Purchase aid

    Good evening, I am currently looking for a new car for our son. We are ready to spend 3000-5000. Had looked at some suggestions on the internet, however, we are not conclusive which of these are thoughtful and what thinkable. Perhaps experienced people could look at it with one eye and consult us. )SEAT Ibiza – We found it because of year of construction i.o., if we get a new TÜV from the seller this would be worth considering our side. sen Peugeot, built in 2009 is also good for us or my opinion, even if you say Peugeots often have problems (electrical problems?) etc. Peugeot 207 This Peugeot 207, built in 2009, unfortunately I can’t say anything about it. It would be really great if you could help us. Cars please only from Saxony and only from the car trade (guarantee) if possible!

  • I need your recommendation

    I want to buy a car, but can’t decide, wanted to get your opinion. The car is used for everyday use (purchase, work path, etc.) and once a year to home I will drive with it ( 5000 km back and forth). Budget: 20. tsd. ( pain limit 25000€) Must be: Diesel min. 150 hp automatic transmission limousine or sportback 4/5 door not running over 50,000 cars I am currently watchingOpel Insignia 2.0CDTI Innovation 4x4Here I have quite a lot of problems over r Insignia read but from the price the Opel is unbeatable.Ford Mondeo 2,0TDCI Titanium I had Ford before, have not made such good experience but it doesn’t have to be the same every time.Audi A5 2.0 TDI Sportback This is my dream car but is over my budget There you can also add VW Passat and Bmw 5`er but have not found any matching.

  • Car reviews shortened. Car has almost complete service booklet. Attorney thinks chances are bad

    After an accident (the other side admitted guilt) my report was shortened by 1200€ by the opposing insurance company with the reference that my car was not completely serviced by the BMW dealer. The fact is that after the purchase of the car all repairs (the last one was only a month ago) were made by me at BMW, only the small inspection was done once at a free workshop, two months after the Tüv over BMW. In this small inspection nothing was repaired. Lawyer thinks that the courts (BGH judgement) only ask the liability insurance companies to pay the full sum of a brand workshop in the case of fictitious billing if they keep a checkbook. By the way, the first owner didn’t always wait for the car at BMW, but that can’t be accused of it, can it? Do I really have such bad cards? What do you think?

  • Audi used car warranty Plus with own brake change

    Hello together, I hope I’m right here in the section, otherwise please move! have a vehicle with Audi used car warranty Plus. To do this you have to have service/inspection (repair also?) done in a VW workshop so that the warranty remains. I soon have a service check at such a workshop again and already know that the brakes (dishes and receipts) have to be made new. So if they carry out the check and say that the brakes are new chambered I have to do this with you (or a VW partner workshop) or can I change it myself without losing my used car warranty plus. Or would it be advisable to change the brakes before the inspection so that the topic does not occur at all. Hope you know what I mean! Make your own brakes = guarantee away? Let the brakes be made at VW workshop = guarantee remains? Thank you for your help!

  • Experiences with HDI as a victim – do I have to consider what?

    Hello, I had already written in the Punto Forum, one of us drove on our parked car and has caused a “eigtl.” Total damage, the liability is clear, according to HDI KV from the Fiat AH I submitted, but they want an expert report, the expert I ordered and he was there this morning, the values I get tomorrow or Wednesday. Now I have read much neg. about the HDI, now totally shot that they pull everything into the length. How are your experiences? Or should I immediately a I’ve heard that they always make a counter-assessment? LG Curly

  • Accident respondent does not avoid accident

    At the end of November 2014 I was driven up by someone waiting at a red traffic light. Since I could not detect any damage at first I left it while photographing the license plate and changing mobile phone number. Only 8 days later I noticed that the bumper is about 2 cm on the side. Since my free workshop did not want to regulate the damage due to pre-damage (cratter) without expert I agreed to the damage of an expert of the insurance However, the victim does not communicate with his insurance so that I now have a refusal of regulation by the opposing insurance company, because I cannot provide any evidence of participation. I have no witnesses, it has not been received by the police. If I call the opponent, he does not doubt the fact, but that it has been harmed. I am not covered by legal protection. I don’t know if it makes sense to hire a lawyer, as long as I can’t prove the fact that I’m supposed to cut this thing off under apprenticeship. Next time I don’t have any police if I don’t have any witnesses.

  • Discount protection – Just a marketing trap?

    Hello, there is the possibility for many insurance companies to negotiate a so-called discount protection, in which one is not reclassified in the damage-free class in the case of a maximum of one accident per year. However, if one changes the insurance, this discount protection expires, because the previous insurance of the new insurance informs the “regular” damage-free years. That is, the protection obtained with the previous insurance no longer applies and one will with the new insurance The new insurance also takes into account all accidents of the past and ranks the new customer correspondingly high with the number of non-harmful years (formally, the old insurance actually ranks high one second before the change and informs the new high SF class of the new insurance). On the basis of the above explanation, therefore, a policyholder after an accident rarely has an employee. The change would only be worthwhile if he had an extremely expensive insurance so far and the new insurance would still be cheaper despite the increase. The discount protection is bought by higher premiums. An insurance without a discount protection is always cheaper than an insurance with a discount protection. Until the damage occurs, the customer therefore pays more than he or she has to pay. As a result, you have to look for a new insurance policy and you have to be upgraded in spite of the discount protection. Then you would have paid your discount protection (in the form of a higher premium) completely free of charge and the insurance cover would have to be paid for all these years (in the form of a higher premium). In other places it can be read many times that the insurance by the discount protection wants to bind the customer to itself in the long term, because after a damage case he will now have no special interest in a change (as a higher classification threatens). This argument is contradictory insofar as hardly an insurance will have a longer-term interest in a customer, which makes regular insurance payments necessary. In any event, if an insurance company cancels after a damage event or not. As far as can be seen, it is entitled to terminate. Thus, the policyholder enters into the hands of the insurance company, which is always profit-oriented. Even at the time of conclusion of the contract, the customer can never be sure whether he can actually use his discount protection in the event of damage. Moreover, the rumor persists for decades that all insurance companies in the Sc hadensfall strive to limit their services to a minimum. Discount protection – Just a marketing trap?

  • Speedfight 3 LC does not start

    Hey, I have the following problem with my Speedy (approx. 16.000km). With E-Starter it doesn’t start at all, with Kickstart until the day before yesterday almost always. Now it is no longer a motor run after a short ride to restart, completely acidifies. Today new spark plug and ignition coil with plug installed, still no sparks. Are there any problems with the CDI or also cable breaks on the handlebars? The difference between kick and e-starter made me already stubborn, now can’t go at all. If I put the CC on the ground I have no spark. Does jmd have a tip? Thanks already

  • Group F, F-2005, FS or others?

    I am currently building a Mitsubishi colt, which is also supposed to sniff some racing air. unfortunately only have the motorsport manual from 2004 to the hand… in group F the vehicle would fit in – but that has been replaced by the 2005 (right?) and here the restrictions on the intake tract are too high. the engine (4g93, homologated for group F) breathes over a single throttle system… the group FS would be a solution, since the vehicle would still be used for road traffic the F/F-2005 will be performed as a condition to comply with the regulations of the StVZO, so it would not be a giant theatre for the respective examiner to have the vehicle removed with the regulations-compliant changes in order to drive thus in road traffic to events. since the engine is homologated for the group F3, then possibly the regulations of the group F?? or if someone had nen tip in which other group the vehicle should be removed could be taken? wanted to start occasionally at round-track events, only that is why group FS would not be possible (only slalom and mountain races). edit: so, after some further searches in the net I now know that I could probably only come to group H with the modifications on the engine or the mixing preparation. seems to be the only solution :/ to refit the motor to series intake manifolds would be stupid – the 45mm throttle valve would have to be 1926ccm hub at b is to supply 9500rpm … if someone still has a tip which regulations I could look at – always bring it!

  • front thruster back quietly getting at hard braking

    hi at the mini cooper S the rear is quite restless at high speed braking. with a KW 2 and a big brembo front this peculiarity has been attenuated a little bit but not gone. Knackpunkt is also the unfavourable weight distribution with 2/3 front and 1/3 back… I was at the suspension specifically telling me that these crates have this peculiarity and you just have to live with it. the statement doesn’t necessarily satisfy me because I have heard the supposedly cooper aroundfa are those who supposedly got rid of this peculiarity completely – partly with another brake force distribution between front and rear or with an anti roll kit (larger stabis). Funnyly, the problem occurs most strongly in fast (over 180) driven autobahn curves when one pulls out and you have to be fully in the iron. is there still a slight floor wave becomes really funny. funnyly, the little one makes this at the downhill passage after the swedenkreuz on the aremberg kurv e not at all even though you have to get in full and there are also waves without end. under train there are zero probs and the little one then goes around the corner like nothing. also arupt gas removal in the middle of the curve doesn’t impress him at all and he doesn’t even get restless – I’m baffled. any tips? thank you in advance.