Hello, I need your help in decision-making^^ I need 2 sets of winter tyres. One for a golf variant, and the second for a caddy. So far I had the Michelin A4 with which I was very satisfied with the variant. The A5 is still quite new – in the Öamtc test he did not convince so much with consumption and wear – to what extent one can trust the tests I also not quite know… What do the tire experts among you say: Continental TS850 or Michelin A5? n Michelin would still speak of the 30 Euro voucher for refuelling. According to the test the Conti is better for this.
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Combine new and old winter tires or four new all-year tyres?
Hello guys, I have a question about which I need your opinion. And I need new tires. At the moment I still have 2 winter tires Goodyear Ultragrip 8, DOT October 2011. The residual profile depth is about 4-5 mm and they are very slightly one-sided, which is why the car pulls slightly to the left when they are used on the front axle. I now stand before the choice to buy 2 of these tires and then mount the old ones on the rear axle and the new ones to the front. easy train to the left fixed (already tested with old summer tires). I wonder, however, if it is not negative for the driving behaviour at the front completely new winter tires and half worn at the rear to use. These would probably last at most one winter season. Summer tires I don’t have any anymore at all at the moment. Therefore, I think about buying new all-year tyres from financial resources to the Falken All Season AS200. These were combined with the Goodyear Vector Autobi ld test winner. What would be your choice? To combine the 2 previous winter tyres with new winter tyres as described or to buy more than 4 new all-year tyres. It is important to get through the winter season now, since I don’t know how long I drive the car anyway. However, there is also a holiday trip to Spain, where it is not so hot there anymore and it can get sensitively cold on most of the track at night. Last year would be The basic question is: What’s better? Combine 2 new and 2 old winter tires or a new set of premium all-year tyres? Thank you for your answers, Best regards, Robin
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All weather All year Allseason tire tests
I know it’s a serious matter to mention the term all-year-round tyres in a forum full of experts. That’s why I’m just asking if tests are known, I’d like to read something. So in general, you know, there are good and bad tyres, as well as expensive and cheap ones. So I get it, with all-weather tyres there is also a “interpretation” What I mean: summer tyres are designed for summer, winter tyres for winter. All-year-round tyres, on the other hand, ko Some even tend towards winter or some direction towards summer. Some even towards open/offroad. It would be unwise to get the wrong maturity for your own application, so I’m looking for tests. What I’m looking for is: W speed index (up to 270), runflat, 225/50/R18 According to my previous knowledge, there is no such maturity. So I’m going to have to take a “slower” up to 240km/h and do without it. (but that’s another topic) “interpretation” direction winter, I will only drive it in winter, but hope to get a better tuning for the transition time than for a pure winter tire. That’s the thought behind it. I know in the april it snows and has +25C. I want to mature for that. (as long as I don’t trust in SR) willy
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Get lease offers yourself? If so, where?
Hello, I am about to lease a vehicle on business. BJ 08/2015 50 tkm on the speedometer 36 months leasing 25 tkm p.a. All prices in gross: Current selling price = 40,000 euros. Estimated residual value after 36 months = 20,000 euros (I already hold for too low). Comparable models with 125,000 km are just for 30,000 to 35,000 euros at mobile.de. Monthly rate would be 670 euros x 36 months = 24,100 euros. So pay 4100 euros for the “financial service” since the car is only 2 0.000 in value loses. So almost 20% calculated on 3 years, which I think is too much. Does someone know banks or portals where I get a better offer? Thanks already and many greetings!
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Extreme construction sites
Hello forum! The title says it already. In our area there are currently as many construction sites as I have never experienced before. Maybe I was not so sensitive to this before without a motorcycle. But it is less about the number, but about the consequences due to quite thorough measures. Last autumn I read at least that the route between Langelsheim and Lautenthal, the L 515 (http://maps.google.de/maps?…), should be completely closed. In particular, the residents had to drive some forty to fifty km long detours through the Harz(!) against it. On the other hand, protest rose, so that the lock was carried out only half-way. Today, there is still a lack of marking, which is why speed 50 is required – at least on the part that I often drive. Groß Döhren is said to have been cut off from the environment for weeks. The village passage is blocked, and the village is only accessible by a road (Sackgasse). Di e B 82 has been completely closed since yesterday between Rhueden (always a motorway junction) and the connection to the B 248. However, there are very attractive bypass routes for motorcycles. As if this were not enough, the K 38 at Altenau is completely closed because of filming for a movie with Clooney on the viaduct at the Whitsun weekend. The restaurateurs are fully enthusiastic! Are such conditions only common with us or everywhere in the Federal territory? After all, I can’t do without it. And I’m driving my bike mainly for fun, because a construction site that I can ride around doesn’t really affect me. Happy birthday! Ramses297.
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125
Bon Dia! Just back from Cap Creus. With an average consumption of 2.66 liters on 100, for the 800 km. When looking through the Fred’s on MT I notice the following: -No one throws with sticks after 125ern -even Kawa Dirk comes around the curve – In the Gorges de Galamus you pass the oncoming traffic – where a big tourer needs either a reverse gear or must be ready to fight with the bus driver, who absolutely does not want to reset – big bikes to cut off. Although it’s only mountain down, it’s all the more fun and raises the self-esteem – In Bugarach, stronghold of the aliens, we all hurt the ass, but the big-bike drivers did it so much…
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Purchase advice
Moin moin.. start with my A2 in the summer and want to look around for a machine. In theory, I can get excited about all motorcycles.. but for Enduros there is nothing to go out here and a super sportsman with 48 hp I find quite senseless Staying still cruisers.. they also say to me visually the most. However, I read in a forum the following sentence: “Chopper are eigtl only useful if you want to drive straight out at 80 km/h on the country road” I like to go faster and only straight ahead is of course little fun With faster I mean acceleration rather than top speed, doesn’t want to go on the highway anyway, there should be ~160 km/h. To that almost all roads, which lead into beautiful landscapes contaminated with trucks, therefore would probably also be a passage of 80-140 km/h important vllt but also wrong ideas and in the end the bikes up to 48 hp take all nothing.. I find for example the Kawasakis VN 900 and W800 mega geil Vllt someone has some ideas for me, thank you in advance
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Motorcycle advice
Hello all, in just under four months I will be 18 years old. This means for me that I will switch from my Honda CBR 125 r to a larger motorcycle. The motorcycle may have a maximum of 48 hp (47, 6) according to the A2 driver’s license. In the unrestricted condition it would have a maximum of twice as much horsepower, i.e. 96 hp. I would be interested in a racing machine (dream motorcycle: Suzuki GSXR / Kawasaki Ninja). Now to my question, you can recommend me a motorcycle which is throttled on 48 HP has as high a performance as possible. There are quite some differences in acceleration and final speed for many motorcycles. Hopefully there are some of you who have either been very familiar with motorcycles or have already made experiences and could help me with them. to add that it should not be a new model, because unfortunately there is still no money for that. Would be happy if you could help me further. In Betsch
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keeway Ry8 goes out
Hello I have been standing a Keeway Ry8 for longer because I wanted to make fit for the summer again. Last stand was that he drove super until he went out all at once during the ride. Presumably at that time was on piston eater(22,000km) . I have now installed a new cylinder + piston, new membrane, new E choke, new petrol tap with filter etc gasser cleaned in the ultrasonic bath. At the disassembly I saw that the old piston had no feeder at all but since I had disassembled it anyway ka So the mistake at that time was something else. So now to the mistake: I built everything together and drove a lap. Roller did not jump in for a long time. Only when I turned the mixing screw almost completely in. Then it ran really great but after 5km it went out. Again gassed removed and saw that the intake snoring from the air filter has a crack. Now the mysterious, With broken hose= he jumps badly, drives 5km well then goes out. With new sh lauch = jumps super but doesn’t take any gas and goes almost out of gas Is that a sign of too little fuel or too much? Almost with false air he actually drives better (just not long)
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Buy Aprilia SR 50 bj 2019 – Original BE and lock defective?
Good evening, I’ve been thinking back and forth for a long time. An SR 50 motard from 2019 used to buy. Only I have a problem Is the inserted type approval original Aprilia? And the scooter apparently has a theft damage, it can be started as soon as the battery is connected! A friend said I only had to renew the lock that’s right?