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  • Suche clever TMT and advice

    Lol somehow got a bite money on the account ALso it fits still nn tmt for the front pure I sachma even loose ne amp possibly even Well my question I might have to build the complete doorboard from mdf, what do you think of it?? So nothing with gfk all mdf are simple lines you should get from inside then possibly with bitumenspachtel or other means of covering the connections of each wood plate Would then quite gladly let the kicker on the door play and the tmt aufs board Now I need tmt Up to now I have decided for the following alpine 9855r if ned is too expensive at ebled or 9853r goes definitely phonocar kicker 2/737 carpower dt286 or 84, I mean at least TYes now tmt Does this all about r5adio by means of active soft??? if amp then the here http://www.hirschille.de/carhifi/product…roducts_id=2296 and what about it guys I need you

  • Problem with installation

    Meal… I’m currently riding a pair of Focal 165 K2P TMT’S, a pair of Carpower DT 284 HT’s and the crossover recommended by Carpower…drive is ne Carpower Wanted 4/320…the whole FS is attached to the carpower with 2*240 W RMS. Power is therefore more than enough. Since the Polo factory has nothing in it, I screwed an MDF to the sheet metal. And that’s sowa doors are sufficiently and absolutely densely insulated. So, now to the problem. The whole thing goes loud like sour…ABER, with hip hop and bass-heavy music the whole thing has absolutely no depth… with techno the thing goes very clever. What’s going on there??? If I read here with some always so and the part without sub only gurgling with FS and that’s enough and then also ask people where the sub is, although no one is there??!! My conclusion…with hip hop and other bass-heavy stuff the sub is really obligatory, or did I shoot a bug somewhere????

  • Use the cheapest power amplifier alone as a level controller?

    Hey, I have the following problem… So I’m happy with my front system, with my subwoofer and with the power amplifier – actually even with the speakers at the rear. However, I have the following problem… Everything runs to the rear system over power amplifier. Only the rear runs over the radio. I’m not content with the sound, it’s also intended to support passengers who are sitting in the rear and want to see something else besides BUMM BUMM. However… , the front system so on a third approx. only the rear system, which can not be adjusted by a controller (logically, is not at any power stage) is too loud to me. And by that I mean very loud. If I set the front system so that it fits and the rear system only plays for the rear, one hardly hears the sub anymore. I just can’t find a suitable overall picture. and since my radio has only 2 chinch outputs, and the radio is so “quiet”, this with the balance controller is fix with to dim If I want to make the rear boxes quieter, the system has lost its meaning. Since I can only change the overall volume. Is it very complicated,but don’t find any more suitable words… Now I had a snap idea earlier… what if I get a cheap power amplifier and stick to the rear system, and let it function as a volume control? At worst, the signal remains that spits out right in the middle of the one that comes in with input, doesn’t it? Or sc I just want to get my rear speakers quiet…. and my sub again nice loud that it fits the front system…. Help 🙁 Achja and tips like “back you don’t need any speakers” do not come to me on fertile ground, since it’s really a sound to sit in the back when listening to music…. What kind of cheap parts can you recommend to me? Can really be the cheapest of the cheapest, h Auptsache the sound doesn’t get much worse and you can control the volume at them to some degree exactly…. And if it’s still n bitl playing with frequencies, then I can finally take the low frequencies out of the speakers and let them play alone the middles and heights 😉 Thank you Thank you!!!

  • After replacement of the exhaust system – significantly quieter!

    Hello together, since the beginning my R8 Spyder V10 Plus (2018) with Sport-AGA has given such a rattling at the gas. After I was in the USA a week now, the workshop had the order to repair that. Car came back last week and the exhaust system was completely replaced. On the right flap was the problem. One could have skipped or immediately completely swapped. The workshop made complete swap. Today’s first ride. And I vomit literally. The car is “clear” l My car has the 10T down. Do I have to drive 10T KM again to make it louder again? Or has something been changed here? I haven’t had a chance to get in touch with the workshop yet. I will do it on Monday. But that’s how all the emotion is gone … Like another car …

  • Need help with the cable salad with the Rex RS 450

    Hello It took me 1.5 weeks ago to buy a Rex RS 450, because I was allowed to scrap my car and there is no new one in it. The scooter is quite ok, but somehow it is bad. Living on a mountain and I only come crawling up on one side with just 15 km/h. When I was overtaken by another 50 scooter quite easily, I thought it could not be right. Also the scooters I had in my youth did not have such problems with the mountain. The scooters were not hairy. ^^ I then looked at YT how I can see if the throttle is still in it and then looked at the cables. There was clearly what was done only I didn’t know what and which cable belonged to where. Can someone here perhaps help me and say what was botched there? And what else could it be that the scooter pulls so badly? Thanks P.S. also strangely I find that on the CDI with Edding 30km/h, he stands, but on the straight line (only if it doesn’t go minimally uphill xD) already drives its 45km/h.

  • *SUPPORT* Speedfight 2 100 S2AB Problems

    Hello dear community, I have the following device and I’m about to light the mill! Speedfight 2 100 S2AB Dellorto PHBG 21 DS Racing Black Edition, HD 85, ND 45, needle clip middle, 50g float, 40er slider Polini Boost Bottle NGK BR8ES Cylinder – Piston – Membrane – Seals/Rings (except for the KW) renewed after eater through broken oil pump / runs now mixed with 1/50 ? before the change the box ran despite fresser better than now… 17.5 carburetor with a 65er HD was on it ( with which the car does not even start now)!!! now to the problem… with the current spray it stutters when starting up to approx. 40kmh and then it goes with hardly any speed further up to almost 65… more is not possible. The following I have already tried HD 105, ND 50 (minimally rubbed) ? accelerated up to approx. 60kmh (depending on the mix setting more or less) ? speed goes down (as would no sprite come) ? bang with puncture flame back out ? accelerates again something ? the whole starts from the front HD 100, ND 50 (minimum rubbed) ? accelerates to about 50kmh (depending on the mix setting more or less) ? speed goes down (as would no sprite come) ? bang with puncture flame back out ? accelerates again something ? the whole starts from the front HD 95, ND 50 (minimum rubbed) ? accelerates to about 40kmh (depending on the mix setting more or less) ? speed goes down (as would no sprite come) ? bang with puncture flame back out ? accelerates again something ? the whole starts from the beginning HD 95, ND 45 ? super train for a second ? stutters up to 60 (no matter what mix setting) HD 90, ND 45/50 ? stutters up to 30 (no matter which mix setting) ? with hardly speed up to 45 etc. have tried from HD 60 – 110 / ND 45- 55 / 40g and 50g floats / 40s and 50s slide / needle clip in all positions, all combinations and settings… have the faxes thick! Would be very grateful for “suitable” or even solutions! In the sense of the Möhr e of course THANKS

  • Rex it 1000 no spark

    Hello, I’m a bit perplexed here by now, I have a scooter that doesn’t start any more. So I cleaned the carburettor, so it jumped on, but much too fat. I bought and installed a new carburettor, but it didn’t jump on again. I checked the ignition spark, no one is present. Cdi renews, nevertheless no ignition spark, no voltage on the ignition coil. I checked the side stand, there is no switch. In the meantime the battery was empty several times, mus s to be full that the scooter starts?

  • kymco kb50 starts, drives and takes no gas

    Hello. I got a kymco kb50 which didn’t work. I did the following. Head gasket new Membrane and gasket new Kat has clattered so out and too welded Now he immediately starts driving like a cannon but after 20 meters no more gas takes on and is almost dying. But he stays on and when I play with the gas he also comes back and everything starts from the front. What can it be now?

  • For all who understand wat of home hifi

    Hi! Got a little problem, well question… I only have a very small system at home. I kind of have a kind of frequency hole. In the range of about 500Hz. So there’s something to hear, but somehow the kick is missing with the high sounds, as well as you know it out of the car. You know, when such a guitar plays, the lovely twitching and the clear crisp tones. How can I get this with the 8band EQ. I make it easy. I set my EQ like this. He has a scale from +10 to -10. I have set it following. 31Hz: -1 (why is below) 62Hz: -2 125Hz: +3 250Hz: -1 500Hz: -3 (I know that I don’t need to be surprised that 500Hz doesn’t come so much, but I don’t mean that too. I mean the crispy one. If I give more horns only slightly) 1KHz: +2 2kHz: +1 4KHz: -2 8KHz: -2 16KHz: +1 I took out the 30Hz bits because I have a Sunfire that has enormous low bass raising that a I’m looking for the crisp sound. I don’t know what it’s all about… I have a stinky normal Aiwa package system. 2x2Ways LS plus 2x2Ways LS as Sourround 1x Sunfire Subwoofer Maybe you know…

  • I’m going crazy… HELP !!!

    Hi, guys! Well, I’ve already started a thread here, namely this one: http://www.motor-talk.de/t65415/f8/s/thread.html Now I’ve been to the ACR and tried out various bass boxes. Simply cross everything. Tape passes, reflex boxes, closed boxes. My result: everything sounds like shit! Only the loudsärke changes… that can’t be!! Every box just vibrated and buzzed in front of it. Dammit shit! Something doesn’t have to say with my config. Men… However, when I sat in the back and watched the membrane of the woofer, I noticed that it swings very unusually. I have the feeling that she somehow doesn’t really know where she wants to go. She vibrates (very violently) a few times forward and back and sometimes, when a stronger bass comes, he hits out for a short time. A real kickbass however never comes about. The bass sounds more like “DOING”. Very strange. I already have headaches from the most tested and back pain of towing, always the same. I had the lowpass filter at about 60 Hz. However, when I turned on the highpass filter of the power stage and set it to about 180, I noticed that the Membram behaved much better. It was nice and clean with the bass. However, of course, the whole thing was too quiet and you can talk about kickbass. I had as first time an Axton CAB 107 or what the name is (the 12s just) tried out, because a buddy of mine has the same (just the old version). He has installed it in a 3 BMW. So a step-hecklimo, where the trunk is completely closed, and that sounds so awesome. On the other hand, with me only stupid head massage by vibration. Really corrosive… When I sit with him on the back seat, I always have the feeling that it would smash my chest at any moment, but with me it’s more like if ever the moment my head bursts… that can’t be!! Guys, help me!! Please! I’m in despair!! If it helps, I tested these boxes: Axton CAB 107, a few crunch boxes (all closed), a bass reflex by Crunch and ne Hifonics Zeus. I didn’t trust the emphasers, because they would have shot my final stage…