Unfortunately, I don’t get any help at the Lancia Forum and because the topic is important and the car to the Tüv must next month I need some support.It’s about the 843 Ypsilon from Lancia. Motor and electrics should be the same with the Punto 188. Maybe I can save some time and work.The little one has had problems with the ECU for several days. while turning the key on ignition all messages go on: lamps at the front back , airbag, doors and tailgate and what else do I know. rie is replaced, mass cable from battery to body and transmission cleaned and measured through (0.5Ohm), control unit plug connection, cleaned on mass and now I have the body computer out and hoped that you can see something. The ECU Multiscan says u.a. U1601 . This error can not be deleted at all. It comes again and again. The others something and not always. Does anyone have a tip? The airbag control light is always on. Previously almost all control lights were on. I have both keys at the ignition lock at the moment. Did I read that it can also disturb? But that’s not what I think. Was that the same before. please help me;-) PS: Maybe it’s worth mentioning that the cars at the traffic lights are already running uneasy. otherwise the clean runs
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Which winter tires to buy?
Hi, everybody. I know it’s a little early, but I’m beginning to think about which winter tyres I’m supposed to buy this year. I’ve been the proud owner of a Skoda Octavia 3 station wagon, which I bought with 8 compartments. I don’t want to mount the winter tyres (Pirelli in 225/45 R17), but we still have a Ford Focus with 205/55 R16 glue Krisalp HP3, which works really well on the car. Now I had the idea, this i The winter tire test in 2019 certified the glue a not so dolle mileage and the identical BF-Goodrich cut off better in the test. As a premium alternative, the Bridgestone LM005 would very much agree with me. Is the extra price for the Bridgestone worthwhile or can one take the glue, or BF-Goodrich without a headache? Greetings from the Rhineland Olli
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Tyre damage F11, Goodyr Excellence 245/40-R19, 98Y RUN ON FLAT
La Familia and F11 are currently making Switzerland/Italia insecure, from Ticino to Lombardy. Yesterday on the Italian train a pothole with hi-re caught, prompts the tire pressure indicator and pressure loss fat in the display. Speed reduced and the next rest site out, the visible part of the tread was ok, flank inside we torn outside. Car was mobile, then down from the track and the next GY service in Azzate with max. 60kmh. Tires were driven today. Pictures say more than words. the rim did not get any blow or imbalance. My plea: I am more convinced of the safety feature ROF than ever before, however “only” 130kmh it hit the tire properly, without the reinforced flank would have happened seriously. Since the rear axle allows the track stability, just since a tire defect without riding into the Pampas is “happy”… Family was still – with limitation – still mobile, thanks to RO F nothing happens. 80 kmh I wouldn’t really risk with it, also the tire gets pretty warm, still the cart is mobile. It is all too lightly argued that a tire damage would hardly happen. I am convinced that ROF has saved us from worse. If no spare wheel, then ROF!
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Servo hose Disadvantage of defects
Good day dear MT user. When I got to eat at the golden seagull yesterday, I suddenly heard such a funny noise while steering. I quickly parked in order to prevent anyone from getting there. The Yellow Angels dragged me to the car dealership at night. This morning I got the call from the car dealership that burst the servo hose. Cost for the hose 100€ + 400€ installation. Well, my question is therefore. I got the car at the beginning of December 2008 at an Autoha We bought it from me around the corner. In addition, the dealers usually gave us warranty in kind and I also made a car warranty. However, the car warranty does not apply for the damage, if it had been the servo pump then yes. Well, long talk short sense. my question is. Holds for the lack the car dealership where I bought the car. MFG Rico
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Does that count as overtaking the right??
Hello forum! I would like to describe to you a situation that comes almost every day on my way home. So: Means the A59, direction Bonn -> Cologne. Between the junction Wahn and airport the road is 3 lanes. That is, the stand strip was prepared as a lane. There are signs that in 2000m the right lane will lead to the departure and only the middle and left further. I have to leave airport, so order me right one. If I now drive the allowed 100 right there, I would overtake a lot of vehicles to the right which drive further towards Cologne. I order myself to the right because: 1.) Right-hand driving bid 2.) Do I drive at the end of the 3 lanes yes from the A59. So the right-hand crossing is when I drive past the vehicles which just because of the signs do not change to the right but stay on the middle lane? As I said I drive at the end of the track off the train! I am a MfG Surfkiller20 P.S: I can’t take pictures during the ride. So I link to photos from the motorway atlas. You can see them HERE. The first two photos show the situation very nicely.
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500s hybrid 11/21 for short distances
Good day and happy new year 🙂 I’ll have a beautiful 500s hybrid in Portofino Matte Green next week. I need the car primarily for the small town or for my work route (10 km of city traffic back and forth). Generally I drive a lot of short distances, e.g. to shop. After my move and the new short work path I had problems getting my old 2.0 tdi 2006 BJ warm especially in winter. Can anyone of you say how fast the 1.0l hyb The logic is that a small petrol engine would have to warm up faster, but can the additional battery of the hybrid heat up the engine even faster? Unfortunately, the dealer couldn’t answer that 100%.
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Fiat 500 cylinders 2 & 3 ignition oscillators – I despair
Hello dear community, I am really in despair. I have to deal with a Fiat 500 HSN/TSN 4136/AJB, the 1.2, 4 cylinder with 69hp. First the thermostat was defective, renewed, a few days later car in the parking garage briefly went off then again. Car was introduced the following was done up to now: -Zündkerzen, Zündspoole together with all ignition lines – injectors cleaned (If the car starts the first second syringes all correctly and then with one time we 2 and 3 lten -When I delete the error during the vehicle run it injects again with all cylinders a two seconds and goes back into the emergency run -There are also times where the car runs quite normally, but in the load range it gets irritated again into the emergency run but 90% of the time it is suitable in the emergency run – engine control unit, probably no error -The cables to the ignition coil – engine control unit checked is OK, is everything also relatively well accessible and close to each other -All mass pokes cleaned -In the intake tract in this air filter box on the engine was the one small line of the studs defective the repaired, absolutely no remedy created the whole has experienced a time similar with the car or a advice I screw back and forth for eternity and just don’t know why it goes into the emergency run. Error code by launch Diagnosis: P0352-14 Cylinder 2 ignition coil Circle by mass short-circuited or open P0353-14 Cylinder 3 ignition coil Circle by mass short-circuit or open thermostat on day x renewed and about 3-4 days later came the two error codes and are after all I did still unchanged, but there are times light days where the ne Weil runs as if nothing was…
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Retrieve/order and learn radio keys
Hello together Our new family growth is on the farm and I was very surprised at the handover on Saturday that I was only given a normal and a radio key – that’s probably normal and you have to order a second key directly with…good, not known and is just like that – Now I thought I’d buy one (e.g. use) at the free market..let the inliner blank do the local key service and then drive with the new whole E Well, far from it – the employee just on the phone tells me that it wouldn’t work and you can only learn these keys as newly ordered ones. A new one would be around about 350€ cost *lol* I can’t believe it…. Well, that’s what I’m asking in the open round – is it really like that? I can’t and won’t believe it, because it smells a little like “We just want to sell our new goods and earn a lot of money!” m a so-called “Code 2” key (stands also on the keybart) – Whatever that means. Then the second question – Can you learn the FFB even without Fiat (with previous models this went on times -> ignition with second key and then with the “forgotten” FFB the vehicle once up and shut down – then the probably was registered again) Thank you in advance and I am grateful for any tips
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Leasing: trigger or return?
Hello together, my wife and I are currently about to decide what we are doing with our Fiat 500C. We leased the car almost 5 years ago, was a really nice offer then, normally we are not a lessee. The car ran BJ. 2017 and almost 21,000KM, engine is the 69hp, equipment is the then special edition Rockstar with Navi, we still had a seat heating retrofitted, 8 times tired. We agreed at the time with the seller that we The lease ran over 45,000KM, so the refund is safe, but that would be only ~300€. Damaged on the car is nothing, for sure a professional preparation would be necessary, especially with regard to the roof at a return, so the 300€ would be gone again. Now the question arises, trigger or back? WKDA I have done for the sake of fun, fixed purchase price (online with photos) are 9.450 €. We don’t really need the car, have both meanwhile company cars, but somehow also bothers me to give the dealer a car back in the condition Would you take the short profit with you and sell it to WKDA, sell the car privately or return the dealer because too little profit for the effort, ? What do you think is a realistic price at mobile.de? We are really indiscriminate. Keeping the car would be conditionally an option, daughter will be 18 years old at the end of 2022. R car but almost just around, and a car of its own would be kind of nonsense, are cityrs…
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What to do with pushers ??
Hello, I have a question how to behave best when one of you is close to driving, or if “light” braking is allowed? I was on the A60 on the way this morning, so around 140km/h fast, when I wanted to overtake a column of trucks. Before changing lanes I saw a black Audi from even greater distance, which was a little faster (~30km/h) than I was, but still relatively far away. So I set to overtake and drove on the left After I overtook the first truck, however, the Audi drove me very close, better said he drove towards me without slowing down speed and then brake strongly. he then drove at about 140km/h half a meter behind me which made me really scared, because I didn’t even see the headlights, but only the windshield of the backman. I saw the rear of the car and the rear of the car. At first a second honked to make the backman clear, to keep a little bit more distance. However, this was answered with back honk and light honk. Then I broke the overtaking process, I took the foot off the gas and pressed the brake to the pressure point and under constant horned the speed “easy” but steadily reduced and shunted behind the truck against a. The idiot then of course honked back and constantly pressed the light honk, through the rear mirror could ic h look that this was wild in his prolet-car on the gesticulation. He looked kind of funny…… .. after all, he didn’t want to have me in front of him. Was my behaviour allowed???? I couldn’t drive faster at the moment, because I had a car in front of me and the Audi so drove you up so that it would have been too dangerous to keep driving. If this full idiot had left at least 5 m behind me, then I wouldn’t have been so excited, but half a meter was really not very much at 140. It’s not as if I had blocked the left lane at 80 km/h alone, then I could have understood that if you made clear with light and horny times to the frontman, which is in Germany Reichsfahrgebot. I am every year about 30,000km on the road and meet constantly on such idiots which are simply too stupid to keep distance.