Hi! I looked at 2 Arteon used cars at the VW dealer. Both leasing returners. Both should be accident-free according to VW house. I had a paint knife with me. One had paint so about 140-180 on it, the other was on the outside surfaces more like 220 and on the roof surfaces so 240. Dealer thinks that all is ok and accident-free. Can this be normal that there are so tolerances from factory?
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new car due – X1/X2 Xdrive 25e useful?
Have a meal here in the round… read with me here in the forum for a long time and have signed up now because I have a few questions that are currently stuck in my head…. and I have no solution… unfortunately our x1 i25 is a Monday car and hopefully goes back soon… because we are basically satisfied with our friend, we hope for a good offer to stay at BMW…. now the question of course is… X1/X2 Hybrid a real Alternati ve…? the following requirement profile: daily approx. 30-45 km (50% AB and 50% city – all unfortunately in traffic jam…) long journeys are put back with our other car. Luggage compartment no topic would load I have read at home now something into the PHEV topic… according to paper would my requirement profile be designed for it or? But quite isn’t it with purely electric driving or? As soon as I give a little more gas the petrol engine switches to it – so I have it at least t understand, or is there simply no more power when I’m on the road purely electric? Or is that a marketing thing… and you can’t drive purely electric with a PHEV? Then I would have to start to reckon I don’t really see if it makes sense to switch to the X1, X2 hybrid… or it doesn’t make any sense to drive purely electric or to get a pure petrol engine again… ev. a smaller machine… eg X1 Xdrive i20 I hope it can jeman bring the light into my darkness…. 😉 thank you already… lg from Austria
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Family Benefits
Hello in the round, I have to change my company car this year. Currently I drive a 2 Gran Tourer. The vehicle is currently the family car for 2 EW + 1 child. Due to the short working distance of 5km I drive only 11Tkm per year. This can become a little more over the next 3 years by more holiday trips instead of air travel. By the discount with the company car tax I would of course like to switch to a plug in hybrids. The brand BMW is predetermined by the AG. But I’m not sure which vehicle I’m changing to. The choice is actually the X1 xDrive25e or the 225xe Active Tourer. However, I’m not sure 1. whether the two vehicles are family-friendly and which of the two has the better usable trunk? The alternative to the two would be the 330e. The trunk of the 330e at the limousine looks smaller on the pictures and from the liters data, which is why my E Another option would be to extend the current lease and wait for the 330e Touring. Are there any opinions on the subject?
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WLTP values in the configurator reliable?
Hello, by 1.1.2019 the law comes about about half monetary advantage for e-cars and hybrids. The hybrids must comply with the guidelines of the ElectromobilityG or have an e-mark to be favored. Now the “problem”: Suppose I order a 530e with a range of 40km according to the configurator (according to WLTP). But if now 39km are in the order confirmation, I have a problem or would have to change the configuration. Therefore my question to those who abbreviate h ordered: Did the WLTP value in the configurator match the value on the order confirmation? According to one user, the value in the order confirmation was even 1g and 1 km better. Unfortunately, BMW can’t help at all and the dealer is also completely overburdened…
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BMW iPerformance from 01.09.2018 no longer an E-mark
Hello “E” friends! My salesman had just told me on the phone that the 530e and w. from 01.09.2018 no longer received e-marks. He also didn’t know more exactly. I had searched for something in the net and was able to find out a few thin information. Together, the test cycle changes to 01.09.2018 – e.g. 530e. After NEDC, a CO2 value of 57 g/km results in an electric range of 41 km. According to WLTP, the CO2 emission is 69g/km and the electric Reichwe Since the WLTP procedure is not mandatory until 1.9.2018, the lower NEDC values apply for all new registrations until 31.8.2018 and thus also meet the requirements, e.g. for the E-mark. From 1.9.2018, WLTP applies with the consequence that no limit value is reached after EMoG. So no more E-mark. This also applies to the X225e drivers. Best regards Alexander
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Purchase advice: RR or RR Sport up to 25,000€ – what to look for?
Hello, I would like to buy either a range rover or a range rover sport in the price range up to a maximum of 25,000€, also only 20,000€. I have a few questions for this: 1. Usually the vehicles in question have then already 8-10 years and a few kilometers on the hump. What is there to consider with the two models at that age? Are there special weak points or particularly expensive cost traps (ZR change)? 2.Where are the concrete differences of the equipment lens? ien HSE, Vogue and Autobiography? a)Are there already things like distance tempomat, traffic sign recognition and lane retention assistant on the models? b)Is the interior of an RRS exactly as high-quality as that of an RR or are there significant differences here? 3. Which engines are recommended? Driving profile: 15,000km a year, mostly medium distance, 3 times a year longer holiday trips. Driving style rather comfortable, even with less horsepower. rs sometimes in field and forest on the way. Best regards Tim
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Range Rover and Range Rover Sport: What is the resale value?
Since I didn’t really find it here and I only drive a new sport for just under 5 months, but especially because I drive my cars only 2-3 years, I am interested in how high the resale value of these two vehicles is. I also play with the idea of taking a RR as soon as the new model will be there in about three years. My feeling tells me that the sport will probably have the better resale value, but I have no idea and my Merchants are unfortunately caught I haven’t met a dealer who attributes a bad resale value to his products.I am very grateful for your reviews and opinions!
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Pre-alarm
Hello Together My first Velar MY 2018 had a somewhat overzealous pre-alarm, which has given alarm much too often. Also a green triangle lit up in the dashboard when it was switched on. My new Velar MY 2019 also has a pre-alarm, but it never alarmed so far and there is no green indicator light anymore. The reason from my dealer: They would have changed the system (an alarm is almost impossible to provoke) and they would have the indicator light as well. Because too many customers had asked what this indicator light was really good for. The pre-alarm in the first Velar was actually annoying, but if it doesn’t indicate at all, it’s not a good feeling, because the emergency brake assistant probably works over the same cameras. Anyway, does someone have experience with it? I ask because my dealer “feeled no idea what he was talking about and the green warning light in the latest operating instructions still on Tom said: “I’m sorry, I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, I’m sorry, but I’m sorry.
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Range Rover (Sport) buy TDV8 – decision aids / experiences?
Hello guys, this is my first post in the RR forum and I recently bought a BMW 125i with the help of the discussions and information here (https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-macht-am-machten-spass-t6351846.html) and therefore I hope for support at the next request. I would like to buy a off-road car (intentionally not SUV like “city car” and it should not be mainstream. I don’t want an Audi Q5/Q7, not even a BMW X5/X6. I have a time over a Touareg V6 or V10TDI Technically, that’s what I want, but I have a Phaeton in the garage and the two cars share a lot, they’re too similar to both of them would be interesting for themselves. That’s why I came across the Range Rover or Range Rover Sport and the TDV8 engine with 272hp is probably the right one for me. V8 simply because it’s a V8 (I know that the V6 would be appropriate, it’s not a sports car) but I want to get rid of the V8. Gasoline, because d What is your opinion about the 3.6 liter TDV8 in general? What do you have to pay special attention to with this? And how do you think about RR vs RR Sport? I know the sport is smaller, lighter, less luxurious in the interior, used more cheaply. I don’t want to spend more than 12,000 (DE-Price), as a benchmark.
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Beginner Question: why must the varnish be polished before preservation?
Hello, on the wax and non-wax preservations always stands for new or polished / prepared varnish. Why does this stand there? I don’t have time and in the cold I don’t want to polish my car either. But would like to protect it from the salt. Can I still apply a product such as SONAX XTREME Protect+Shine Hybrid NPT after washing. Will that also last three or four months until spring? If that is not possible, you can then easily and quickly contact me. recommend processing product? Greetings Chris