hello, I’ve already read through some answers, but I haven’t found the right one yet… it’s about the b caravan, 136 ps, gasoline, drove now some time in the rather high speed range in the empty run maybe 1100?, then after longer distance began the fluctuation between 1000 and 2000, exhaust gas smelled extremely bad, lambdasonde changed, was better at the cure, then longer test drive, which fluctuated again, llr changed, ran immediately deep, but at cold start giing the motor at the beginning again and again, about 3 min give light gas then worked and he commutes at 800 turns and drives very calmly, but now he goes after very short make up e.g. no more fuel, drags himself and then jumps about after 5-10 min wait again, but then the game with the time to give gas again starts again… what can I do?? love thanks for answers
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Vehicle does not start
Misdetection after reading was crankshaft sensor defective. Sensor replaced vehicle ran again 1.5 days, then the same error occurred. I have installed a new sensor today, vehicle still does not start. Experts claim the motronics does not break. Could it be defective after all?The petrol pump does not run.Who can tell me what about it? Axel
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Basic question about rights to buy a car
Hello guys, have a question to you. A friend has bought a moose V70 Bj 2003 D5. Now you were also told a lot what you also get when buying e.g. a roof box and an original tub for the trunk. As both windows are very scratched drivers and passengers should also be replaced. Now comes the hammer, car bought by a Scania dealer who sells this vehicle on behalf of a person. In the contract is also I.A. blabla. car bought there otherwise rech 3 days later, the hose moves from the servo pump to a Volvo workshop. They wanted to have 485 euros for everything, all right, must be done. The guy called where car is bought, who says goes off is taken over by them. So let it be done, now my girlfriend wanted to do something good. Once complete by you and outside. Dabie turns out that the driver’s door has already been patched, and you can see it. Sure she F rough and car was also dirty at purchase. Stand in the industrial area. Lots of dust and driving dirt on it. Now clean and you can see it in the sun that was splashed, was not cleaned. The seller now says nothing more about it. Neither to the invoice for the servo hose despite the fact that he pays it. Neither to the parts roof box, tub, windscreen wiper new set either. And also not with the spatling. He only writes one should turn to the owner. But he did not have n on behalf of Sold and Arrested, right? Thank you for your help.
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Drive shaft grooves themselves eliminate in15min
DO IT: Self-removing drive shaft grooves in15 min A recurring topic in this forum is the load-changing cranking of the drive shafts, which is noticeable when inserting a drive stage in the stand as well as during acceleration or also taking away gas.For all those who have no time for a workshop stay, or the warranty has expired, I have put together a Do it Yourself instruction. So everyone with some skill and tools can use this small, but !!! In case of damage and injuries I am not to be made stickable !!! ( should be called with the screwdriver the rim or stick itself in the fingers carries the responsibility ) Tool list ( see photo ): small screwdriver 3/8 inch or 1⁄2 inch gun corresponding extension ( approx.15cm ) for used gun type. 14er nut ( for used gun type ) Can spray oil Some tough fat
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Air conditioning disinfection, where and cost?
Hello, with our V70 Mj01, it smells very unpleasant when you turn on the climate. now I think that I have the climate disinfected and you should then look immediately after the cold mitel. Where have you made good experiences with it so far, should I have this done at the friend and what does it cost there? I happened to be at the Bosch service today and they want to have 80,00 € plus material. Is there actually a benchmark how many times you should do this? mfg vovlomm18
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Stripped off by VOLVO in Bratislava
Hello Moose friends, I was stabbed in Bratislava in the last few days a tire of my XC 90. Since I had other appointments, which could not be reached with the emergency bike, I had to look for a short-term solution. This was according to my Navi the close Volvo representative in Bratislava. Two very luxurious glass buildings. For 2 Pirelli Scorpion 235/60 R 18 I had to pay including mounting EUR 816,-. Have you ever had comparable experiences. t to report to the European headquarters of Volvo? Greeting exdazan
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how do you notice that ppc works?
hi people have ordered the ppc at bsr(not yet paid because the owners are not in a hurry in the holiday season). wanted to know how you can actually remember if everything works properly without having to compare the acceleration times before and after? shows the device itself if everything is ok? you notice a difference without full gas? thank you.
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Switch RTI (CD) for Navigon?
Hello Since the old RTI Navi (with the 6x CD changer) gives up the mind so slowly, I would like to exchange the extendable monitor for a portable Navi device. Has anyone done this already? Is there any experience? The problem with RTI: Reading errors old card material aged operation Constant problems with the location determination repair too expensive! The plan: I would like to disassemble the extendable monitor and safely disappear in the cavity of the dashboard in the connected condition Now I could install a portable Navi incl. connection cable in the frame. Voltage via ignition plus, operation via touchscreen, sound from the Navi own speaker. So I would have installed a current navigation device in the car, with 3D, new maps etc. for small money (and probably a lot of work). I would not remove the Volvo components and so w w It would be nice if you could give me help with this project Lg Tommy
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Rumbling poltern knocking when accelerating from behind
So guys I can’t really get along with my problem. I’ve been looking like wild here, but I didn’t find anything really suitable. To the problem: If I start/accelerate with a speed between about 1500- 2500upr, then comes from somewhere behind a knocking, rumbling, polter, bollern, .. It’s not quite easy to describe. Sounds kind of rhythmic, getting faster with the speed. If I stay below 1500upr at the speed, the noise does not occur. It also doesn’t come, w It doesn’t always happen, but it’s about 90%. It gets/is stronger when I accelerate in a curve (re/li doesn’t matter). It’s definitely more dependent on the speed than on the speed, or from about 80-90km/h there’s nothing more to hear. I have the feeling that it gets worse when it’s loaded. I actually shut out the tyres. They’re very new (winter Michelin, about 10tkm), and it happens at very low speeds. I don’t believe dampers either. I don’t believe wheel bearings, because they would certainly report even more at higher speed. I checked the exhaust and found nothing suspicious. Had once raised it up, and a wheel off. Was not to be seen, or the difi. siffs quite easily. I then waved at the cardan shaft. It can be moved at the camp already very rough back and forth (approx. 1-3cm). I thought already to have found the enemy, until I read here that the camp, or the rubber That’s why I had to be soft (how soft???). I couldn’t control the hardy disks. In August I had the gear oil checked (only control, nothing changed). The difi has not yet been tested. The DTI has no brake belts in gears, so it can’t be. My guess: I still type on the bearing of the shaft, and possibly one/the hardy disks. I’m grateful for useful hints to seize the culprit! patrick
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The instrument cluster is at irregular intervals
Hello Together The instrument cluster of my Volvo C70 Cabriolets (2001) is sporadically off (tacho failure, KM display missing), STC/ABS/warning light and occasionally motor control light are on. Most of the time after a few minutes drive the tacho and KM counters work again and the indicator lights go off, only STC always stays on until the engine is switched off. When reading out different diagnostic devices each indicate the error P1633 (Accelera. Pedal Pos. Sensor 2 Signal too Low). My guess was with the defect of the el. gas pedal, after I changed it already for a new original part, unfortunately the error occurred again. Does someone have an idea where the real problem lies? Best regards Sebastian