moinmoin, the new asphalt ship had a previous owner, who may not have had 10 havannas every day, but still has a little quarzed in the car. not very bad, the smell, but who like me after 25 years of smoking (1 pack per day) stopped from now on and can withstand that already in the 7th year, doesn’t have to be for him. so ask: how does the smell go out (clear, leather creams, sky and fabric with mist-moist cloth from slightly soap-louse wipe, te carpets and mats I save myself here). but the stubborn smell probably hangs in the hoses and ducts of ventilation / climate. does one know a trick? home remedies vary so between ground coffee before brewing and coffee set after brewing, but before I start the sour egg – help that ?? or something else ??
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ABS controls at front unevenly with full braking
Hi, everybody, I’ve found a new problem with my thickness, which I can’t rhyme with right now. Maybe someone knows about you a bit of advice. The problem is this: If I put a full brake, the ABS controls the left and right at the front instead of the same both wheels, so that my steering wheel strikes wildly back and forth. The car moves about 10cm to the left and right, depending on which wheel is blocked. 0Kmh still likes to go, but doesn’t want to paint what happens to me if I have to put down a full brake at 160Kmh. I fear that I will then fly off the track. The brakes are made completely and the car brakes absolutely straight out until the ABS procedure. The ABS-Stg. was also made new. What I have also noticed after the brakes incl. brake fluid changes have been made, that the omi loses its braking power over several days and also the brake p If I then repeatedly sharp brake increases the braking power again and the brake pressure on the pedal comes back earlier. Air in the braking system it can not be because the whole system has been ventilated several times and the symtom with ABS and the braking performance described here has passed also before the change of brake discs etc. Gruss Stephan
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Truck against my Omega ;-(
So now it caught me again. Such a crap. Just everything nice and then that. Have no pictures yet, but follow. To the facts: Will leave the site from the building material dealer. There is a huge building truck, which had tilted down. I wait, it still stands. I drive slowly. I pass, and then he drives me in the back to the corner. He sounds around. Always the same theater, with the creeping around. He could not have seen me. I argue that I would have stood and w He should have seen my long vehicle loose when he drives me in the back, also from up there. I already telephoned with his boss, who was himself an Omi driver (diesel faction) and showed himself very understanding and wants to settle this as suggested by me on the small service way. I said that in the clear legal situation I would not like to take the right path, however I left no doubt about it. What a day. Greeting Axcell
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Heating Toyota PROACE VERSO Executive
Hello together, I hope there are a few specialists here in the chat regarding Proace and heater. I have a 6 month old L1 Executive where the heater has never worked. Vehicle was already 5 days in the workshop at the Toyota dealer and…… it’s all the way it was. I can always turn on the heater via remote control, the heater runs on and always after 3.5min everything shuts off with a clack. I have several times the workshop by video recording software has been reset, batt. management has been reset, battery replaced, etc. etc. now they shrug with the shoulder, is just so no idea. Now come on, the boss of the contract car house has already claimed I have no heater, (the answer to the question what Webasto and the remote control in my hand for a function he was owed to me) then I was told that the heating goes only at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius and in an open carp The temperature is always much higher than outside, so take the 5 degree control. The battery when ECO mode is installed by charger does not change the Batt. Management until an absurd long-distance drive. Various listed defects have also not been fixed or twitched with the shoulder. For example in the rear middle armlobe which with the tables the roll container does not reach or immediately reopen. Rear wiper only goes the inner half, brakes quits terrible i go back….but the heating is above all annoying this winter. Hopefully someone here has a suitable solution for me. Thank you!
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Spacetourer XS (short) currently only with 120 hp diesel as switch
Have you already noticed? The Spacetourer XS (short) is currently only configurable as 120 diesel switches. The big 180 hp diesel, as I have it, is currently not available. But my salesman gives a warning. The big diesel is only not built this year, because Citroen is otherwise not able to meet its environmental requirements. From 2021 it is probably available again. Probably further optimized, since then probably “6d-ISC-FCM” must apply? Best regards.
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Upgrade Driver Assistance Package 1
Hi all, I bought a Zafira Life as a demonstration car half a year ago. Unfortunately, this one only has the driver assistance package 2, unfortunately not the driver assistance package 1, you could probably order at that time extra. I am now considering upgrading the assistance package 1. The assistance package 2 is the bigger one and I think already integrated all hardware components that would access the assistance package 1. Did someone have already retrofit the package 1? Is it, as I imagine, more or less a pure software matter? I am primarily interested in the traffic sign detection and the trace assistant in Package 1. What are your experiences, is it worth retrofitting Package 1, if possible? Greeting Thomas
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Delayed turbo reaction – cause?
Hello together, today on the way home from work and on a short errand just now I noticed a strange behavior of my moose (2.0D): The turbo reacts at once delayed! Normally it misses a good kick at full speed from ~1.750-2,000 rpm after the usual turbohole memory customer and rips, but this happens at the moment only one or two seconds later (and thus at slightly higher speeds). So below 2,000 rpm feels the nor I’m not sure if this could fit, but the vacuum hose of the turbo control (which runs on the back of the engine block) could possibly be a suspect… It had bitten through a marten some time ago, so the better reachable end of the hose from the ADAC against a The provisional was found to be so good that he thought that I could safely leave it that way – and it also worked over 40,000 km without any problems. Apparently the connection is still fine, but maybe a cattle bit in again…? On the other hand, even if a vacuum hose has a small hole, no full tube can be used. I suppose the pressure will be built more, so the turbo should never be able to build up full pressure, right? Greetings Matt
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With whom did the connection guarantee “reward”?
Hello community, I’m still not sure if I should complete the Volvo Pro Plus connection guarantee for my C70 MY13 (this is the one that covers almost everything except the cover parts).Yes, it’s clear: in truth the connection “guarantee” is an insurance and only a big bet.It would help me in the decision-making process if those of you who have also signed a connection guarantee and tell if they are financially involved. Of course there is also an immaterial “learn” in the form of a good feeling that one would have been secured… I don’t mean that, but only the hard Euros: balance of the costs for the connection guarantee vs. actually necessary and taken over repair expenses. I consider whether I should take 909 € for the PRO PLUS in the hand for another 24 months “guarantee”. For this speak: – automatic transmission (if broken then really expensive) – elaborate roof Konstr uktion (the hydraulic ballet in the trunk – also here: if fit, then expensive: is included in the PRO PLUS ) – known defects of the series V50, S40II, C30 (climate condensator, door mechanics?..) Against this speaks: – my material-friendly driving style – “smooth weather car” without great stress – last model year, i.e. there should be no old problems of the series from earlier years (Zündschloss..) anymore. – “maintenance-free” D3 Diesel / soot particle filter combination Thanks for your reports Greetings, Harald
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Side cladding seat V50 / S40
Good day, dear Volvo drivers… I watch more and more the cracking of my driver’s seat (with a quick change of direction like roundabout) The cracking comes from two “corns”. Somewhere in the back either seat or at the beginning of the backrest and from the side. The workshop hears it and does not feel it. Sometimes you can even feel a slight slide. Think the seat rails give in or has the seat some play – rails sit but bombarded. Or the backrest b zw the joint has a side-play opposite the lower part of the seat… However it cracks somewhere in the transition seat to the backrest and also side-wise: At the side comes the cracking from the seat-ve-dress. Maybe it is not right or it has loosened behind it or felt could help. Do you know how I get this hard plastic cladding away? I mean the part at the side where e.g. through a slit of the lever to the seat-vesser position. The seat is a mechanical – so without electric landing. Thanks for the help in advance and greetings Peter
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Very slow falling speed (empty speed regulator valve)
Hello together, My 95 Volvo 850 (petrol with 144ps) makes fax times again. Problem is that it goes down while driving with the speed only extremely slowly. As a result, the actual braking effect when gasless rather converts to acceleration. At the gas train it can not lie (my first thought). After a little search with the mechanic of my trust, it turned out that the problem can be fixed with the idle control valve. In turn, I was thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaners. However, this did not solve the problem. Will I have a new old replacement installation and hope that it will be done with it. Does anyone have any other ideas about what it might be or experiences in the direction? Greetings Geiger