Hej, Vorweg: I’m new here and hope I’m right here. For two days I’ve been trying to convert my ventilation back to disk/footroom with my 850 with air conditioning automatic.With the damper front passenger side defroster/footroom (NR. 15) the drive shaft was broken and I repaired it. Can also be manually rotated. Unfortunately, the engine does not move a piece. I still have 4 other actuators, which I tried all, no one turns. At the climate control element in d the center console works the middle rotary knob, because if I turn on AUT the blower changes from the strength, means -> switch works between 6 and 12 o’clock. Everything on the right side, that is between disc and foot space, does nothing. I had removed and controlled the control element, everything looked good. (But also no electrical specialist) Same problem on the flap control on the driver side no.14, does not move. Is it possible that the dampers have to be adjusted first? Is it possible that the dampers have to be read out and reset performed? Unfortunately, I have no readout device. Do they just not move because they are in “emergency” or something? I am really overwhelmed… PS.: On the actuators sometimes there is a 1 and sometimes a 2. Does someone know what it has on them? Would I be happy about the answers!
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Car completely powerless, what can that be?
Hello, I had the following problem this morning with my V70 for the second time: The car is apparently completely powerless, as if there was no battery in it. ZV is not working, interior and instrument lighting is not working, of course it doesn’t start either. I have such a small power bank with starting aid function, after I have jammed it, everything is there, even the starting works at usual speed within half a second. Battery is a year old, the last incident of this Art is six weeks ago. I know this with old batteries, but then everything is a “bish” on and the starter turns slowly and doesn’t make it, but so in the way this is all completely dark, I’ve never seen. Does anyone have an idea what that can be? Is there some kind of main switch that shuts down at undervoltage? I’m grateful for every hint, thank you very much,Kai.
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Water loss and indefinable hose???
Meal and there Iche again, Well as in the title – ua. “Water loss” and no shimmer where it runs. Step sporadically, no matter how far I drive or how short, runs – as I can see, behind the engine – over the transmission. Anyway, it runs – there- down or splashes sometimes. As said not always but more often – more or less. Heating cooler is new (ca 3Mon), Termostat dry (as can be seen), the hoses from the HZK in the engine compartment are dry and d hard, heating switch – hoses on it and seems dry. Was already pressed off and was according to the report of the workshop, naturally nothing to determine and it still runs. Mostly who it is really warm, and then I often get ice cold who I think about how much water the next time is missing. And icke stand there and slowly have no plan and only knows – IT NERVT ANIMAL – !! At the moment, nothing without my water canister. Who has the ingenious and helpful idea to it?? ch, as seen in the picture, it goes behind the engine direction gear and that’s it – nothing more to see where it runs. I also find nothing where it could be connected to the engine or behind it, all occupied. Funny thing that. So and nu H-Ü-L-F-E-E-E-E ———- Bidde Thanks in advance The Martock
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Omega B Tuning
Good evening, Opel Omega b 2.0 l 16v How expensive is a complete sports exhaust system with curved? And do I have a few more Ps? Does the consumption then also rise? What can you do for the above car to increase the Vmax? villt. lower because of the better wind cut? Thanks Mfg
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omega b still worth it?
huhu i would have an opel omega b 85 kW 280.000 km EZ: 02. 06. 1995 for 500€ externally in a top zusatand and also so top only cylinder one to three bring 10 bar, cylinder four brings three bar where could that lie and is worth buying it? what would the repair cost me about? mfg slay87
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Unknown component and tank flap does not lock
Hello, I’ve had a 850 in my possession for a few days now. I’ve also slowly familiarized myself with the Mackerel. I changed the wiper arm driver side today (the old had limp feathers and was a bit bent). Since he unfortunately has rust on the fender driver side, I went today to the ground and tried to touch how bad it is behind the bumper. In doing so, I found a kind of can of rear fenders, on which several hoses, I believe vacuum hoses, But this is only kept by a cable tie! Can someone tell me what this is? And does someone often have an image of what it should look like? I also noticed that the tank flap is not locked when I lock the car, is there the engine often defective? Greeting and nice evening Christian
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Cruise without function
Hello guys I know the topic was already there yet I am still unsuccessful in the repair of my cruise control in the 850 switch. So I tested for cruise control 1.The vacuum pump there the resistance does not go against infinity 2. The U hoses seem to be fine. 3.The pedal switch re-adjusts turn-off results 111 No errors. Do you have any advice? Can the relay be broken? The connection of vacuum ball and accelerator pedal was off, now it is naturally ringed in again. I ch had changed the blinker arm to see if it was because of it but that doesn’t make any difference.
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Laguna 2 – Drive shaft joint
Hello, I wanted to change the wheel-side drive shaft joint, but I don’t find the right one. I ordered different ones using the key number, but they all didn’t fit. Also some phone calls with parts suppliers did not produce any result. The defective joint has an outer diameter of 82mm, however, the joints for this vehicle usually have 86mm. I installed a joint, but the drive shaft is too small and does not reach into the gearing. now the question is how I get out of which vehicle this came from. Unfortunately I couldn’t find the transmission designation, but the engine is a F4P 1.8L 16V manual transmission. Someone an idea from which vehicle the drive shafts also fit? MfG Maik
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Body Acceleration Sensor Really Suddenly Defective?
Hello and good day. I briefly describe my problem. I had a wild accident. At the front was a lot wide. ( bumper, grill, radiator suspension, not the cooler itself, bonnet etc. ) The car drove however still quite normal to home and then also still 25 km to the workshop. There he stood 5 weeks, because of spare parts lack ( cooler, hood ) on the yard. When I could pick it up, the master told me it sporadicly the body acceleration sensor at the front right. was not the case until the vehicle was released. Even after the accident not. Now the error is constantly reported, with the ignition switched on already, and now also the left is also shown. It is the errors 008B and 008C interruption / ground closure. It can be quite a coincidence that the two at the same time break, but that would be a great coincidence, and then also still on the yard of the workshop standing and waiting for repair. Before I buy now 2 new sensors and they it but not are, I wanted to ask the experts here, if there are ideas, what it could still be ? A fuse ? A not really screwed mass point ? Or a too weak comfort battery ? Or yet by chance both sensors at the same time ? I am not very knowledgeable and have little idea, but for that I hope for your friendly support. I have already developed the sensors. They looked so still quite good, except for slightly cracked rubber casting, which however no Thank you for your help. Oliver. 3.0 TDI, 2012, 170 000 km.
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Steering wheel is crooked or drags start to the left
Hello, the following problem on my 2009 3.0l TDI Phaeton (92,000km) The Fzg. pulls strongly to the left as soon as I set the steering wheel straight ahead. In order to drive straight ahead I have to twist the steering wheel with (normal) effort about 30° to the right (so in principle counter-direct). If I let go, it sets itself a little back (maybe to 15° can not say exactly) and the Fzg. pulls again to the left. The steering wheel does not vibrate at all, the Fzg. drives in every situation (also at 180km/h) ) normal (except for the steering wheel position). I can’t say exactly when the topic occurred, in February on winter holidays everything was definitely normal. Sometime before maybe 2-3 months I suspected that something was wrong, since I hooked myself from workshop appointment to workshop appointment. I can also understand no event that could have led to this behavior (beat hole etc.). Subjectively it became after the axle survey (see below) rather worse, at the beginning was the difficulty maybe 10-15°, therefore it took me a while to notice it at all. The Fzg. was several times to measure, twice at a free workshop, from then several times at a VW dealer. Of both workshops the handlebars / track rods or. generally bearing/axle components were rated as i.o.. The VW dealer has changed a (meaning?) defective acceleration sensor before the measurement, because the Fzg. did not want to switch to the lift mode. (Niveauverst In addition, it was tested whether the car with the summer tires (currently I drive the old WR from) in the first place, but the same behaviour. Until the last time the car drove with the SR perfectly straight ahead. Today the VW workshop wants to change the WR from R to L again. I also think that such a strong position cannot come from the tires, then one would have to do this on the tires s However, these look to a large extent normal (for their age), i.e. evenly driven (despite being allowed to drive on the 5000km with inclined steering wheel). Then the VW workshop tried to adjust the steering position via software, but also did nothing. Otherwise, the VWlers are perplexed and have a request run at VW. I definitely do not want to exchange the steering on suspicion, since one has to show me that this is broken. It certainly is nothing for me if they simply implement the steering wheel, because I have to steer against it to drive straight. Igrendwo in the forum read the following: “If already the rack in the steering gear at Garade outlet is not absolutely exactly in the middle, it comes to steering support to the left or right and the car pulls in the respective direction. “That could explain to me the behavior, if that is true, but it can be that the rack stands out of the middle with straight Steering wheel? Can the workshop simply check this or how much effort does it make? Much more important: Can you correct this (I’m going to go out of this) without changing the steering? And can such a thing even occur “just like that”? Why should the steering just be so misguided? I’m really perplexed, so it doesn’t go on anyway, it drives terrible and dangerous, because a short moment of carelessness already leads to the car “turning off!” UPDATE: The workshop has just melted After changing the tires from left to right, the car is now moving slightly to the right. LR is still wrong. I have to take a closer look at how this is going now, then I’m doing an update again.