Servus! So, I received an Opel Omega B Caravan from 1996. The car is peppered and stands well there. The Harken in the story is, the car is, according to the previous owner, when driving out and does not start since. I have already checked the following things: fuses -> all OK relays -> injection pump and petrol pump are OK (have I exchanged each other) petrol pump -> Is OK (if you org the engine, it also promotes) error memory says follow ndes: (1) 75 I don’t know if it should be 175 or only 75 (1) 44 I don’t know if it should be 144 or only 44 19 73 14 15 Since the car was standing for 2 months, I changed the battery before. Nix does not start. I tried to put the car on with a tow bar, but also no success. It’s an Omega B Caravan with the 2.5L 170hp V6 engine (X25XE) from 1996. What can it be that the car doesn’t start? Crankshaft sensor? What do the mistakes say? I still read out the mistakes with the old battery! Had bridged the car in time. Greeting Patrick
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SRS + DSTC PARTING DRINGING and no TÜV
Hello guys, for some time now I have the Meldund SRS and DSTC maintenance required in my OBD stand. Since I was at the TÜV because I had to go the inspector has of course entered the airbag warning light as a serious lack in the TÜV report and also denied the badge. Does someone know how to bring the warning light to an end or where it could lie ????? Did have the error messages read out and then my workshop expert told me that he could use the Ai rbag history would not get deleted and the error according to error protocol would be “resistance high driver airbag”. I am grateful for any answer. LG Ingo
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Short decision: Summer tire 850er / V70
Hello together, today only a short decision, I hope you will get me further, even if – and that’s clear to me – at 10 answers probably many different results come. I can live with that 😉 after I mothed my winter tyres last month and the TÜV approved my 205/55R16 (thanks for the many great contributions here in the forum) new summer tires are available. an old forum colleague has now actually worked on me so far that I buy new matures. so far I have mostly decided for 1-2 years old (and almost new) used ones. yesterday I visited a tyre dealer to buy 205er. now there are also 195er to choose from. here I would need your feedback briefly: I am on the road 90% in big city traffic. occasionally a ride over the highway. now I am facing the following choice, at the same price: 1. hankook ventus prime 2, 205/55R16 91V – rating wet C, rating sprit consumption C 2. dunlop sport blueresponse , 195/60R15 91H – rating wet B, rating sprit consumption A 3. other matures. e.g. conti premium contact 5 – cost per mature 15,- euro more. “feeling” the 195ers are a little lighter. with the 205ers I have the feeling of having to spend more power on steering. would like to spend tonight, at the latest Friday to the workshop and look forward to your feedback.
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TÜV says no because of ABS
Meal, I’m new here and have a question right away. My elk was at the TÜV today and couldn’t get over it, as the examiner said the ABS is not working. I was a little surprised because I wasn’t aware that my elk ABS should have. He showed me the ABS hydraulic block and said he had to have ABS. When I made the brakes (front and rear) I didn’t notice any ABS sensors, even when I removed both front axles to mount new axle cuffs. It lights up a uch no ABS lamp. Must my moose now have ABS just because this hydraulic block is there ?
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Volvo 850 T5 switch ZDK DEFEKT or “only” heat exchanger?
In short, the Volvo T5 switch, 855, has LPG, but has not been in operation for a long time, so that there is an overpressure in the system DESWEGEN due to a defective evaporator I guess not! Bubbles rise through the upper hose,the thin one to the balance tank, water goes somewhere flutes… the heat exchanger is DEFENITIV with the connections in the *****! the question is only if he can lose 0.5-1 liter on the day? the car does not smoke, no mud at the wedge bar or cover, no oil visible in the water, after exhaust smells also not, power is available with the car, heating is also warm to hot!! just what I noticed yesterday, that the temperature indicator has to “fight” to, it rises from the very bottom, and after about a 1-2 cm it jumps down again briefly, up, down, down, and then it rises to 3 clock and stays also on 3 clock!!! What has come new, engine cooler, had a hair crack along 10 cm approx.!! he with lid, original bought at volvo dealer! Thermostat from Whaler , new, temperature sensor from a working 850er!! just the cable or plug had or have a waxer but it can’t lie there… fill the water level on MAX and after 1 day drive a bit of city and stand around is in the evening the stand on MIN! … If I open the lid during hot operation, yes not the best I know, it hisses very briefly, clearly overpressure, then cover closed, cover closed to and then the water rises again to just above max… but so that it is impossible to discharge the balance tank or that it really bubbles or one hears a cooking or other things while driving, is not!! only sometimes when I turn off the car you hear a bubble from the tank, in the driver’s room well noticed! but at the tank around everything is dry… that makes me crazy… doesn’t have to be the ZDK?!! the heat exchanger loses water, sh eibe attacks minimally and it smells like frost protection or coolant in the inside room… but I just can’t see where it’s made! parts are ordered, but come only on Wednesday… carpet up relatively dry… but under the carpet all these foam and fabric mats are fully sucked with water…
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Conversion from yellow to grey plug for BC
hello… I need the cable assignment for the grey plug from BC or the pin assignment because I have the old BC (yellow plug and small black plug) and now want to upgrade to the new BC (grey plug) since the yes well known has no pixel error any more!
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After transmission only trouble and a lot of white smoke change from the pot.
Hello, I hope someone can help me, otherwise I’m still going crazy. I had the automatic gearbox changed on my MV6. When the nice people in the factory sat then wanted to refill the oil, is noticed that is like a Vakum in the gearbox and the ÖL screw qasie is sucked from it. When you then fill the oil, this is sucked by the Vakum all by itself from the bottle. There is something wrong or? And suddenly the car catches like crazy white from the exhaust z u Qualms, so that means for me that the gearbox ÖL is burned somehow. The overpressure hose on top of the gearbox must then be connected wrongly or? I know this is certainly all a little by each other, but I am really very stressed by my Omega. Gearbox bought, let install, a lot of money spent and now an ÖL combustion plant in the garage. According to the workshop the overpressure claw was only pulled off from the old gearbox and on the new one on so that it can’t be wrong, but it has to be. That can’t be right.
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Gasoline smell in oil
Hello have filled up oil and there it is noticed that it is directed to gasoline. Opel omega A 2,6. Do you suspect cylinder head seal??? Can anyone say anything about it???? Must still say on the oil measuring rod is no petrol smell, no bubbles, no power drop, no cooling water loss…. Thanks in advance!!!
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Driven, report there, what do you do?
Hello, last week a nice Mercedes driver hit me. At the back left behind the tire, she hit me. The visible damage is for me… well, no more than scratches ^^ According to the report it is 1000€ net and about 1200€ gross, which came out as damage. If I’m honest, I don’t want to cut all the money in there because the car did not get worse for me. However, I don’t get paid the working hours, if nothing was done I’d rather have my ABS, new tires or an ATP oil change made ^^ I’d have thought more of it than I’d have had it ironed out for 1200€ ^^ Greeting Martin
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No “good climate” in the car
Dear elk friends, since my air conditioning system (despite new capacitor + filling) is not working, I was at the Bosch Service today to let the error memory be read out. My fear (climate compressor) fortunately did not come true, but with the diagnosis: air conditioning pressure sensor: signal implausible I can’t do anything. Do you have any idea what this might mean? Thank you very much in advance Pappnase1