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  • Search for coolant tube (replacement part)

    Hello dear Motor Talk members, I need your help. At our Seat Alhambra (7593/AFJ) a coolant tube is rusted through and the car loses coolant liquid (currently not much, about 200ml/month). I wanted to renew the part and was already 2 (!) times in the Seat car house and they could not find the part in their system with these funny plans! First time it was said, come over with photos, then we can find the part already. The second time the photos did not help and even the boss was there, but unfortunately they could not identify the part. I was suggested to drive the car to the stage and start a search that would cost me at least a fifties. So to the competence and service of our Seat car dealership. Well, with a pipe piece, which probably does not cost even 20€… I don’t think I’m a single person on Earth who has the problem with the leaking coolant tube. Maybe someone already has so much 1. The Seat people broke at least to know where this coolant pipe comes from and where it goes. Only then can they (maybe) identify what part this is. 2. The best is point 1 and the name of the part. 3. Luxury would be to get the spare part number from the part. The coolant pipe (double version) is located around the drive shaft at the front right and is visible from below. You do not need to remove any panel. (see Fo.) tos) For the help I would be very grateful to you! P.S. I don’t know, but with the help of BMW catalogs I can always find every part for BMW, even small. At the Seat, however, the plans don’t seem to be exactly structured. Greetings

  • Sports tires with road registration for strong front-wheelers wanted.

    Hello, I need summer tires for my Golf 2 – 1.8T (TT), 260 HP at 900 kg (empty), front drive (G60 extended). I want to stay as far as possible at 15″ and not go wider than 205. Last summer I had bad experiences with the Dunlop SP Sport, but the winter tire is great!!! The problem with traction during acceleration is that the SP turned partly at 140 km/h in the 4th gear… I would like to bring the performance in the 2nd gear to the road, that would be great!!! A dealer has recommended with the shelf racer in 195/50/15… I don’t know… a 50€ tire??? Wear is almost irrelevant to me. Grip (dry and wet) he must have. Good curve handling, short braking distance! Does anyone have a tip? With someone I mean people who drive similarly strong front-wheelers or sports vehicles.

  • Engine question Formula car up to 2litres

    Hello guys, we are just hypothetically superior to which engine is the right thing for a Formula Car. For the current one the decision has already been made, but for a possible upcoming project I already collect information. Usually the Formula Cars up to 2L engine capacity have proven Opel, VW, BMW and Honda 16v engines. I consider whether it is a bit “unconventional” not better at relatively high costs. (we talk about private amateur sport!!) My e rster thought was 2Liter V6 or V8. V engine alone because of the much better possibilities in the airbox construction. Added to this is speed behavior, weight, .. and not least the sound. After a long googleei I found only 2 vehicles that have fitted the standard 2-Liter V engines. Nissan Maxima (v6) and an old Ferrari (v8). Quite perhaps interesting the Nissan. Does someone know the engine and can say something more precise about it? Are there any other comparable Mot oren? I have often encountered “own constructions”. These were two motorcycle engines assembled to a V8. I have read about 300hp of performance at just 75kg. I find it very interesting, but all the links that didn’t lead to a Caterham RST V8 were dead (Cyclonepower zb). Has there been more information or even experience? Here are some key data about the project: Formula car, engine revision at the earliest all 1500km, Lei What do you think about what else I didn’t even think about? Greeting PS: How does the torque R4 vs. V8 engine behave with the same engine capacity?

  • Accessories you don’t need!

    Hello together! When configuring my G, of course, I also thought about what you might need, and what rather not. It’s certainly easiest to tick everything in my current G, but it’s quite expensive. What do you think, what can you do without and why? I’m going to start with: comfort telephony! Why? I have these in my current G and don’t use them. 1. because the comfort features that are limited to SMS don’t work with my iPhone 5s. 2. Stays loading The same applies to the antenna. So it remains in the soft cover (my 4s I have scraped without the cover by falling down) and everything also works nicely without the comfort features. 3. In addition, the compartment in the middle armrest is not occupied by the charging shell. 4. I have also not noticed an improvement of the reception by the roof antenna. 5. Oh yes, without the antenna. n Stuff there is a potential rust spot less. OpenAirFan

  • Optimum switching time (question)

    I won’t whip my TT anymore, yet I would like to know from you whether someone can tell me when the optimal switching time is from Gang A to B for the train and for the city. I can drive, probably not bad, but that’s it. Who knows if I did everything “right” to speed up for example “right”. Can you calculate or read something like this, or are there only experiences?

  • BMW F01 730d Electric Crash

    Hello dear motor-talk-community, our fat guy has been spinning around for some time and I can’t get any further. When unlocking the car, the throttle flap starts to clack in the front, if you want to start the car, a complete Christmas tree lights up in Tacho. The flap clacks further. Various error messages are brought: driving stability failed, drive disturbed, parking brake loosen, RPA failed etc. etc. I turn off the ignition and wait until the flap stops klac kern, are sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes it can only be started after 20 minutes, after which all error messages are also gone and everything runs normal. Shutter was changed test-wise and learned, error was still present. New AGM battery was also installed. ISTA shows the following error (unfortunately not in the possibility to upload pictures): CA940A: message (data, powertrain 2, 0x3F9) missing S 0237: No communication possible with: Electronic fuel pump stu CF1501: Message (N47 with great consequences) is missing, receiver EGS, transmitter DME/DDE… CF1511: Message (N47 with great consequences) is missing, receiver EGS, transmitter DME/DDE…. CF1521: Message (N47 with great consequences) is missing, receiver EGS, transmitter DME/DDE… CF1531: Message (N47 with great consequences) is missing, receiver EGS, transmitter DME/DDE… CF1541: Message (N47 with great consequences) is missing, receiver EGS, transmitter DME/DDE…. D01646: Message (Winkel Fahrpedal, 40. 1.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE… D01744: message (data powertrain 2, 230.0.2) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE… D018E1: message (torque crankshaft 1, 40.1.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE… goes on all the same… then on: ABL: supply TRSVC all-round vision camera S 0313 No communication possible with all-round vision camera ABL: supply diesel electronics S 0392 No communication possible with motor electronics ABL: supply active steering S 0221 No commu nikation possible with active steering ABL: EKPS electr. fuel pump control no communication S 0237 ABL: supply rear-axle angle control 02 System analysis: message missing ABL: system analysis CAN/FlexRay message missing ABL: bus error 03 system analysis signal error ABL: system analysis CAN/FlexRay: info interface error “signal invalid” ABL all-round vision camera SIT Electrical testing of LVDS data lines ABL fuel filter heating Central gateway module and FlexRay Ionisa a few days before reading out, there was something else with a clamp 15… Can someone tell me what it means? I discovered a similar article here:https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-schief-fahrkomfort-weg-t7085999.html Unfortunately I can’t mark the contributor, he got great answers. WO start looking? The workshop has already checked cable trees and checked fuses.. i ve What can I look at as a hobby screwdriver? Of course, get help in the workshop if you give me tips Thank you in advance for your advice and continue to enjoy driving! Best regards Blondi

  • Short distances with a 645i?

    Hello together after I sold my 325 i Coupe, I would like to get a Bmw 645i 8 cylinder. Problem is my work is only 5 km away and I drive around in the leisure time if at all 15 km in the area. 14000km in the year always short distances. I absolutely want a 6 but would not drive through the short distances the engine broken especially in winter ? With my old Coupe I had nice problems with hydrostoes so the clacking in the cold start. Detour to work ok Environmentally friendly isn’t that but the main thing is a 6 thanks for your answers

  • Been at Wimmer’s today

    Hello to each other. First of all a huge compliment to Thorsten Wimmer and his boys. They have today (my first visit) a MEGA event. Super thing. The boss aka Thorsten is a super expert. He analyzes all mistakes almost immediately after he has started the car. The service team in the workshop is also the expertise par excellence. Incredible. My baby is doing so well and even the magician himself (Thorsten Wimmer) was from my ice cream nmann surprises “Boah, who is sometimes loud – never let the haste enter” class thing Have still received a few defects attested. These would be with mine: 1. Control Forge defective (pump or cable) 2. Valve cover seal sweats … but probably normal. 3. Crank case ventilation sweats. But no Prob. 4. Coupling rod and rod slightly hit. Anyway. The car goes very well and is top in shot. I will now exclude my thought-out tuning work and repairs That’s more than convincing today. Incredibly positive impression. I also met the one or the other from our forum. Suck ropes and cool guys… Gruss Fabius – the convinced!

  • Mustang 3.7 v6 US import electronically regulated

    Quick question, a colleague of mine recently bought a mustang 3.7 V6 309ps from Bj 2016 is a US import dare. The seller told him then that the mustang was electronically regulated at 185km/h. At first he thought Okey was electronically regulated, one can change it quite easily. After a longer search he found in the net that there is a bigger difference to eu version or there. Once the brake system is different, engine cooling system is different and the chassis is a At higher speeds, the wind stiffness was not maintained. Has anyone ever heard of it or can tell me something about it. My colleague’s nerves are bare.

  • Kaufberatung – Tips & Reviews

    I have absolutely no plan of Mustang so far, so I have fallen in front of my feet when Googleing this forum Principal key data that I agree to: US model BJ from 2012 – today, EU model only if it has to be automatic compulsory, like a striking color and no convertible. Various cars spits out autoscout then, one of which stands out particularly: I hope links of Autoscout are o k, if I don’t take him/or an admin out again:https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…7dbc6e63-f633-4335-8282-943a22c5940f What do you think of the car? Does he feel all the special equipment that there is. Once completely new waiting, and the color tells me extremely. Actually perfect. Does the price fit? What should I ask the dealer? The problem is that I can not even short to the dealer, from Dortmund to Bautzen is a piece Can the dealer possibly also someone internet reviews are unfortunately too easy to manipulate Thanks already for your time and help! Greeting, Manuel