Hello forum user. I have one: Alfa 156 2,0 JTS 166 PS What happens to me is that when I start the car cold, the engine turns to 1200 / min. If it is warm, it goes down to 1000. What I also notice is that when I switch in empty run, the speedometer drops down to 1200 fluidly and from there it goes rather so bumpy or stocking to 1000 revolutions / min. If the speed, when starting, falls below 1000 so the motor jerks. So I have to at least Is it not normal, however, that he should have 900 or 800 turns/min. in the empty run? My father drives a diesel 2.4 jtd but the motor only jerks if he really falls below 900 / 800 turns /min. otherwise not. So I am also used to it with every car. I drove out the Alfa once and at 7000 turns / min. he had exactly 230 lt. tacho, is this also in order, because I read here sometimes, that the with 1.8 liters 230 – 240 km/h sch otherwise it’s going perfectly, what can this Macke be about? Did you read anything about an LMM and the throttle flap that you should clean it? Fals that’s true, has jmd. a guide for this, with pictures, if possible? Thank you in advance greeting Sonics
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Alfa 156 Recommendation
Thinking of getting an Alfa 156. Thinking that an Alfa is a real alternative to the German premium brands. Now, regardless of the motorization, are the maintenance and spare parts costs comparable to those of BMW and Co? Ok, I know that the costs are definitely higher than those of VW (Had actually a VW Golf 4 1.8 T in mind), but actually the costs should be somewhere in between, or are the costs higher than those of BMW and Co? Are there serious problems? differences between the engine variants? i.e. zb Differences between: Alfa 1.8 TS vs 318i Alfa 2.4 jtd vs 320d Alfa 2.5 vs 325i Finally, I want to have a solid car for the next 3-5 years, whether it is petrol or diesel, is first of all secondary. Could I also imagine getting a v6 if the additional costs are not higher than with the 325i, and install a gas system. OK; bmw Has a chain and valves not to be adjusted, but what about the rest? Car should be between Bj 2000-2002 and have a maximum of 100,000 km on the clock. Yearly running speed: 15-18 Tkm If the costs should be excessive, then I would get a Golf 4 1.8t. But that would only be an emergency solution, because my budget is 6000 euros. Look forward to your contributions!
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My Change to the Volvo Forum
It has become a Volvo again! After my Saab 9-3I (210hp) and various years and conversions (see Saab forum ) I have been looking for a bigger station wagon for a while. The trunk of the old 9-3 is hit only by the E-Class station wagon, but I wanted better seats and more interior space. What I no longer wanted was a car, where I start to remodel everything again. Motor tuning, brakes etc. should, like the equipment (Navi, telephone, PDC etc.) largely advance The Saab 9-5 Aero and the Volvo T5 failed. After a long search and various considerations, test drives etc. it has now become a hand-operated 2005 “R” with 45Tkm on the clock. Top equipped and perfectly maintained by the Volvo dealer as a leasing back runner. Unfortunately not in black Next Saturday is pick-up – Dachreeling and the labeling orgy has to be removed, gypsy hook is also removed. Pictures are available so far only from the seller:
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How long do shock absorbers last?
Hello all, my V70 II is currently in the Volvo workshop wg. grim suspension noise from the rear part of the vehicle. Diagnosis of the workshop: both rear shock absorbers have to be replaced. Before I get upset about it now, the short question whether it is normal that shock absorbers are worn after 100,000 km or 5 years respectively? Never have my car been heavily loaded and drive completely moderate. The shock absorbers on my 12 year old Audi are still impeccable (have I I’d like to hear from you about your experiences.
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Water pump defective….the first time left
Moin municipality, now it caught me as well. On Tuesday morning, shortly after the start, I heard an unusual sound for years: squeaking from the belt! Depending on the gas pedal position a little stronger, or weaker. Like to old Golf I – times I thought that I would soon drive if the jagged don’t stop. After all, the thickness is only 8 months old. There should not be such displeasure. Unfortunately, shortly afterwards came in the middle of the village. play the message “Electric. Turn off the consumer!”, connected with a wildly twitching pointer in the voltmeter. Well… because I will just switch off the steering wheel and seat heating and drive directly to it. Can be then only the wedge belt, or the alternator is defective. Not two kilometers further then the next Jobs message in the middle display: “Check coolant. Bordbook” This time in red flashing. Since the coolant and the oil temperature was at approx. 90° and also no ansta When I turned left into our road I almost sank the thick one into the neighboring hedge, because unfortunately there was no more servo unsupport of the steering. On the long straight line I did not notice the lack of power steering at all. With ach and noise I drove it then to our property (Servo went around on the right) where then suddenly thick steam-swads out of the motorha ube arrived. I immediately switched off the engine and opened the bonnet, while a large puddle had already formed coolant under the car. Excitingly, the display of the cooling water temperature had not moved all the time. It was still standing at about 90° Well then…. Phone snapped and called the VW VIP hotline. They then informed mr that they were getting in touch with my dealer. Two minutes later my phone called and c a. 20 min. after that the tug stood at the door. After we have charged the thickness we drove together to the. There I got first an A4 (unfortunately switched) so that I could drive further into the office. I would also have got a replacement Phaeton, only then I would have had to wait two days at the dealer and then the coffee there does not taste so good Not matter… an A4 is also not so bad (jammering at high level) Yesterday evening I got the thickness then again. Fri According to the master, the water pump was defective, which initially represented a leak to the housing. This led to cooling water coming on the belt, which prevented it from driving the alternator with full power. Finally, the housing was completely burst, which led to the entire engine compartment being damaged with cooling water. Therefore, the large steam wool was also used to wash, suck and the winter wheels were also mounted immediately. no. On my question, if something like this occurs more frequently in the Phaeton, the master denied, but recently came several newer A8 with 3.0TDI, which had the same defect. Conclusion: Half a day lost in the office (oh… as a pity), two days A4 driven (there is worse), a new water pump get (great) and found that the VW service worked in my case, even if no replacement Phaeton was put. I’m just glad it wasn’t a marder bite that was too bad. The insurance company would have had to take action again. So… .. continue to drive well and always have a hand-breathed cooling water in the balance tank. Peter
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How satisfied are you with your V40?
Hello everyone, I’m about to buy a new used car. I have VW/Audi or Volvo V40 to choose from. Actually, VW and Audi are too expensive for me. At the moment I’m driving a Skoda, which is more trouble than he is ready to drive. What are your experiences with the Volvo V40? Can you recommend your car without restriction? I’m asking for honest answers !!!!
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V 40 What now?
Hoi Volvogemeinde! I bought V40 2 years ago (BJ 19999/06, 95PS, Comfortpacket). Now already 95000km. Up to now: 2x: Gerzener Veilriefer penetrates cooling water line because Volvo mechanic does not recognize that tensioner roller is defective. All 4 brake discs and cheeks new. Electric window lifter left defective: replacement of the whole thing: €470,00. Track warped: tires broken early. Etc., etc… I need the car professional and there it should somehow count. How is your Erf ahrung: Is the car totally scrapped or do I have a Monday thing and from now on I have peace anyway? Wouldn’t I have bought the BMW or Laguna…. However: Pretty eater already! Please write me your experiences. I should make a decision quickly! Merci wastl from Vienna
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Omega A – C36NE – Engine Oil leaks
Schöne Schei… I noticed today that the engine loses oil between the engine and the gearbox as well as at the front of the oil tank rubber seal. Probably the crankcase ventilation is watered. What do you mean? Greeting Reinhard
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Omega B – X20XEV – AU: CO value too high
Crankcase ventilation does not change anything. When reading out in real time, a wild swinging control value of the Lambda probe occurred during idle, between 50 mV and 4300mV, and the control loop jumped back and forth between to and open. Is it worth checking there, or is that normal with the old Symtec with the X20XEV?