Hello, I’m new to the forum and looking for a good used vehicle. My demands are quite manageable – I’m ultimately looking for a cheap vehicle that will be kept as long and uncomplicated as possible. My search parameters were: 1) as far as possible not older than 10 years (hardly younger) 2) as few kilometers as possible 3) maximum 5000 euros (hardly less) In the search (Berlin area) I came across many Renaults, especially Clios and Twingos. 1) Clio 1,2 8V BJ 2007 with just under 10 Tkm – price 3.500 Euro 2) Clio 1,2 16V BJ 2012 almost 16 Tkm – price 5,400 number one is from private, number two from the dealer. Number one has a slight hail damage and no climate, number two looks like a new car and has climate. At number one the seller told me on demand that the timing belt and the water pump would be exchanged before sale without additional costs, with number two has My question is, what should be taken into account, if the first offer is considered serious and what problems can arise with a 10-year-old vehicle, even if or perhaps even even if it has run so few kilometers. Lack of air conditioning and 58 hp speak a little against number one, but I am undemanding enough to prefer the 2000 euro difference to an air conditioning and 17 hp. In addition, he is standing on the street in Neukölln, so he will also have to put away a lot of environmental influences. In this respect number one, as silver colors, would be in advantage to number two, red colors. I would like to thank you very much in advance!
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Replace microswitches in remote control/keys
Hello all, my wife’s Clio needs new microswitches/buttons in the remote control. The car can no longer be closed. It is a CLIO III (BR0/1, CR0/1) 1.2 16V (BR0P, CR0P) , 1149 cm3, 101 hp, 74 kW Night and Day. Engine type: D4F H7 Has any of you ever done this ?? Would be grateful for a few tips. MfG Addi Anbei 2 Bilder
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Long-term experience Reliability Clio III
Hello all rhombus friends, as the title already expresses it would interest me how it looks about the reliability and satisfaction with your Clios, which technical, electronic or other problems you have had so far, if possible with indication of year of construction and mileage. Then I make the beginning, Bj 05/09, 100,037 km. At approx. 70 tkm brake VR and HR was visible at the grinding on clearly dirty rim. Once the cooling water temp. display does not fun It was an electronic error. Otherwise, only inspections were carried out and no problems, i.e. a top reliable car.
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From NG to ABY
so times a question to all have to bring before me soon n s2 which also has more kilometers on it what if one completely overhauled the engine before the conversion? new bearings let everything regrind covert parts renew etc. what would the ca cost and to the conversion how much must one change? brake system is clear, I have to take over the axle also from the aby or ranges the from the ng? and which gearbox should one drive because it is a cabrio, some swear on the 6 gear from the 2.5 tdi some on there s 5 course of 2.8 gasoline. want to hear your opinion about it
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cable for installation in audio 80 bj 89
hello, I have just ordered a final stage as well as a new radio of a subwoofer box and 2 16cm boxes (which also come to the final stage) the 16 cm boxes I put in a retrofitted hut rack (extra made for it) my questions: 1.) where do I pack the final stage 2.) how must the whole cable be wired (which cable has to be attached to what) 3.) where for me the cables are best long and which parts do I have to dismantle for it??? (subwoofer comes first temporary to the back bench attached later vlt. in kofferaum) you would help me very much. the 3rd question prepares me the most porbleme with the rest I come already irnged wie clear many thanks in advance mfg martin
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Ruffled coupling after removal of leaky collector cylinder
Hi, AUDI 90 Typ89Q NG: I noticed yesterday on a long cross-country trip that my clutch has been packing very rough since the change of the leaking pick-up cylinder and that every time it is coupled in the low gears, there is a clearly perceptible, dull noise from the drive train. Does the clutch at Quattros always come so rough or did I just get used to it that it used to reach softer before, when there was always some air in the system?! CU. Markus
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NG engine is not running properly!! K-jetronik set???
Hey Audi freaks, my baby doesn’t go through properly anymore. When it’s cold, he takes almost no gas and when it’s warm, he doesn’t really go through. He just doesn’t have his power anymore. I just had the volume divider off and I noticed that the plate in the divider is very heavy. By the way, he jumps very badly when he’s warm and if you have to stop before the traffic light or something and the clutch steps, he goes down completely with speeds and almost goes out, But then comes again without giving gas. Can one of you help me there??? Candles and distributors are top. Thanks in advance.
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Timing Belts Sliding
Good day I had my Audi 80 toothed belt changed. and now I got it again and I have compared the OT points and the nock shaft is shifted by 6 teeth so OT doesn’t fit, can something have gone cartutt? the belt has no more than 100km away. until I noticed that he doesn’t pull anymore and has no performance. I noticed that the points don’t overtune. If you drive the car you shouldn’t drive more or? mfg Blade
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Help Help!! Audi 80 B3 cooling tank running empty!!!
Hello, I have a very big problem. With my Audi 80 B3 Bj88, 1.8l , 90Ps the water tank runs empty within seconds. I can only say something like where it comes out and to the right of the carburetor so, near the cyinder head. Exactly I can’t see it because of the carburetor and air filter box that is in the way. My question now: Where could it come from? What kind of hoses might be running for long? What do I have to dismantle to get there? What do I have to bear in mind (gass) he expand ect) ? I hope you can help me quickly! Thank you in advance! Greetings Sascha
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Loss of power NG, only when the engine is warm!!!!!!
Hey guys, I’ve been having power loss while speeding for some time with a low engine, this feels like he doesn’t want to, but he can’t (like a gradual jerky acceleration). If he’s at speed and he’s reached a higher speed, he’s running perfectly, even the final speed on the highway is quite neat. As I said, everything is fine only with a warm engine, in a cold condition! I’ve already read several threads but nothing really p assendes found! Already newly installed: Ignition cable Distribution finger, distributor cap Pressure switch Tomorrow I will get a new knock sensor. Does someone have such a problem with the NG already or useful advice? Would my Coupe like to sell soon and then everything should be perfect!