Hello, only in case one of you is interested. So dear friends of the B-Max. I was at the FFH today and for my B-Max EcoBoost (125hp) I had the moorroom spray protection installed below and the engine cover installed above, because these are not provided from the factory. I find the spray protection useful to keep the engine clean, and also serve both parts of the noise insulation. So who is interested in it, find here the necessary part numbers… because the FFH find below The spray protection below has the part number 1794581 spray protection (50,18€ + VAT) and the required mounting parts the numbers 1382031 screw with disc (1,17€ + VAT) and number 1019377 duebel nut (0,66€ + VAT). Unfortunately I can’t take better photos because I lack a stage. But this spray protection has a silver heat protection coating on the top. And also there is the engine protection cover above also suitable for the B-Max. Di Parts numbers are 1806222 damping element (35.87€ + VAT) and the two mounting bolts 1683973 special bolts (3.18€ + VAT) and 1780192 special bolts (2.71€ + VAT)
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The current GT 6 and the lack of chips
Moinsen, liebe 6er gt Gemeinde, My attempts to get a 640i gt with the following equipment have so far been frustrating, both in the new and used car sector: M-Model X-Drive Pano Executive-Drive IAL Driving-Assi-plus Parking-Assi-plus Comfort seats Heating Adaptive LED headlights Executive Drive and 2-axle air suspension are no longer available. According to the friendly because of „Chip shortage. For this there is now the BMW laser light, which I own I don’t want to have, the adaptive LED is much better for me. My desired equipment is currently not available in the new car area for money (more than 100 k BRLP) and good words. And in the used car area there is currently also no suitable offer, with all current offers at Mobile and BMW used car exchange. This is probably because in the used car area mostly service car leasing-returners are offered. And there is a missing one or another feature, because it is with D Ienstwagen usually gives a limit, of say we times (really fictitiously considered) 100 k BRLP. Well, you also have to make as CFO cuts on one or other equipment feature. But at least, 100 k are already a house number. I would also invest more than 100 k in a new car if I got my desired equipment. But I don’t get it, because of chip shortage, which we are again at the topic. When does this lack finally stop ? Greeting ZR
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Old W463 centre console
Hello together, someone may have an old/defect wood cover for the center console. Can also be broken etc.. I’m just trying to make a cover from 2mm sheet metal stable. However, need the clips on the bottom of the cover to create a 3D drawing from it and try to print it. If it works, I’d like to inform you. These covers are extremely expensive and quickly broken. Metal would make them much more stable and would later also be good „belede apply a beautiful wooden foil with water transfer pressure. lg Dani
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Consideration of a purchase – Request for experience/input to G-classes older than 1995
Good day dear forum members, there is currently the possibility to use free funds for the purchase of a vintage car. The focus is definitely on a G-Class with year of construction before 1995. On the net I find some trusted ads, in the range between 18,000 to 25,000€, here is also the budget for the purchase. But before I commit myself to the topic, the personal experience has shown to listen to the experience of other experienced people and to listen to them. For example: – minimum condition of the vehicle at price between 20,000 and 25,000€ (e.g. no rust, check booklet, TÜV/HU new, H approval) – defects that may not be present at the price range – experience on the ageing process of the vehicle: can the vehicle be seen as “carefree” as a long-term investment, or are the vehicles before 1995 in the next 10-20 years. Is the vehicle only suitable for very experienced self-screws or are the G-Classes also suitable for “beginners” before 1995, e.g. thanks to the lower electronics? I am of course also very grateful beyond experience values beyond the above-mentioned key points! Those who take the time and respond to this, already a big thank you in advance! 🙂 Best regards and a good day, SB
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Set the frontal protection bracket.
Hello G municipality, can someone from own experience tell me if you are currently still registered with the original frontal protection bar or if the TÜV refuses this. (W463 Year 1997)
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Which G-Class is this? (rare model)
Dear community, I was at the bakery this morning and I became aware of a beautiful G-Class of an older man, with whom I also talked. I wanted to get more information about the vehicle now, but find absolutely nothing about the vehicle. It must be a w460/461 or one of the early w463. It was definitely the old design language of the 90s. To the vehicle: – on the vehicle stood at the rear G400D – the vehicle had the chrome front guard, which meanwhile – it was a two-doorer. – on the roof was a spoiler – it had the striking double sidepipes I hope you can help me, since I found only a G400 CDI, but it doesn’t look like the one I saw. Edit: Apparently it has to be a 400CDI… Does anyone know if it is a special model or something?
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Spacetourer – few questions
Hi, everybody! I’m interested in a spactourer and I’m about to do a test drive. Before that, I’d like to ask you a few questions: – There’s probably no luggage room cover for the size M with 5 seats – are there alternatives? – It’s the same with a separation net behind row 2. – Where do you store the warning triangle, first-aid kit, etc.? – Are there any ideas to use the space between the front seats somehow meaningfully? – Does anyone have experiences with “Grip Control”? – In the configuration or you can order additional ashtrays and cigarette lighters – where are they installed? Thanks in advance! Chris
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Bmc-cdabox Sp02
Bmc cda box Sp02 Hello, I have the possibility to buy a BMC-BOX. I am not myself and the seller either, 100% sure if it is the right one for the 225ger. (80ger photo) I know the only way that they have a small increase to the screw-on of the Lmm. I know only the BMC for the 180ger Lmm. (70ger photo) Can be that it is different with the 225ger. I have set a picture where the said box is shown. I have circled the page to the Lmm. I mean, is normally a small heel where the Lmm is screwed on….. Is that right or not?! Thanks for the answers
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Overheating Motor MB 612 d Year of manufacture 1997
Description Heat problem I know there is a lot on this subject, but I don’t get any further… I drive a 612 d, built in 1997, with the five-cylinder OM 602 diesel engine with a cylinder capacity of 2.9 l . When you start the engine and start the engine, the temperature pointer blows out temporarily up to 130 and goes back to the normal range. This then until it is at about 90 degrees. If it is at 90 degrees the pointer swings up to 130 degrees and remains predominantly in the red range. If you drive faster than 60 h/km it goes back into the red area and only if you give full gas, the temperature rises at 90 degrees, you take gas away, the pointer goes back into the red area. So I can drive with 110 full gas and it does not overheat. In the traffic jam – even in summer – the temperature remains at a constant 90 degrees. The small circuit is hot, the heat is heated, the heat is heated. large circuit – the upper thick hose gets hot, the lower hose on the cooler gets very late lukewarm. The cooler doesn’t get really warm. The thermostat was changed on holiday from a workshop (the old one checked and it was fine) and the cooling water completely renewed. An additional temperature sensor was installed on the engine block at the upper rear engine block. This adjusts at approx. 100 degrees. Is it an electrical problem, or the water pump or the viscolü fter? Thank you for your help in advance. LG Klaus
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Timing belts jumped and so on!
Hello, I have an Opel Vectra A 2.0 liter machine. I skipped the timing belt. 10 belts/tooths were gone. I then replaced the water pump and timing belts. And now it doesn’t want to start any more. The starter makes the impression as if it would have been difficult. The lamp in the car also goes out. I thought that the battery is too weak and I used another car and tried to start it with a starter. Unfortunately not possible. Then I removed the timing belt. I don’t have the alternator on it (mechanically, not a V-belt on it). But it can’t be because I have a second car, which is still running. I’m at the end. I don’t know any more. I don’t think I’ve installed the timing belt incorrectly, because it doesn’t work. At the top is a marking and at the bottom is the roll of the thorn. But without the timing belt it would have to run after all? Or is the machine flat? I have rotated at the bottom of the belt roll. I realize that it can be partly hard and partly simply rotated during idle. I also notice in one place as a swing as if a spring would hit off. I can also turn at the top of the camshaft and notice that at different positions it also spins off on its own (with force). Thank you for your support in advance.