The other day I had the discussion with my father about how much 1 km with the car actually costs. Our opinions are quite different. He thinks you can count on about €1/km, which I think is quite exaggerated… As an example we took the gulf of my mother. It is a Golf VI, 2.0TDI, 140hp, DSG. The car was one of the last of its generation with EZ 03/2013, had 4000km on board and cost €20,000. Cash purchase. The car is driven about 20,000km a year. The reason for the story was that I wanted to take a road trip with my girlfriend – and we could have taken a rental car. However, my mother said that she didn’t need the car at all, so we should take your car. I very gratefully accepted the offer and so we drove in 10 days well 3000km. My father now thinks, after we came back, that this makes an equivalent of about €3000, what I got there to drive on vacation It is not a dispute, but a discussion – in which he is quite sure that he is right. ======================================================================================================================= Insurance per year: €600 Cars Tax per year: €300 Service / HU / Workshop costs per year: €300 Wear parts, tyres, brakes, windscreen wipers, washing liquid per year: €400 This makes up for €1600 fixed costs per year. In addition, the fuel costs are more or less variable. at 20,000km and 6l consumption are approx. 1200 liters and at 1,35/litre the additional €1600. So with fuel this would be approx. €3200 per year. However, since I was fueling at my own expense during the trip as well as paying motorway fees, I assume here again from the initial €1600. 20,000km – €1600 3,000km – (€1600 / 6,67) = €240 I know that the loss of value can also be taken into account, but: Who is right here? How much “equivalent value” was the car on holiday? a lot costs a km with our golf? Is this generally a “good method” to be able to determine the costs for other vehicles as well?
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“Luxus” and reason at 50,000 km + x
Good morning, car lovers! For my new job I would like to buy a new vehicle, it must be a diesel, because with these kilometers the decision is made easy. I calculate with 50,000 km + x, the variable because it is field service. So every day I drive around 100 km simply to work, i.e. with the deduction of the holiday roughly estimated 40,000 km easy. I can resort to a gross salary of 45,000 €. Apparently, however, it is worthwhile with This is why, of course, the question arises as to whether leases, buys or finances. Leasing is too expensive for the private sector. It would certainly be possible for the first few months to take over the lease, whereby one has to pay helm with the contract, especially the multi-kilometres and when the contract is taken over the documentation of the pre-damage on the vehicle. Buying would be an option to save the interest on financing, however, I do not know what In the case of financing, it should be the monthly instalments, when buying, you will have to write off for several years. In the case of financing, you will be easier to get out of the contract than in the case of leasing, but you can look forward to a juicy additional payment. For the start, a “small” A4 or 3 Series BMW than an annual car is waiting for me, because the value loss in the first year is already murderous. However, I don’t know yet how long I will hold the car. In other words, if I sell the car again after 1-1/2 years and with what monthly costs without fuel do I have to expect? What would you advise me to do? mfg knetfigurformer
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Anybody know gwleasing.de?
Moin people, I have been reading here for a few years, but could not contribute to discussions so far. Therefore my first post (and at the same time first thread): I am looking for a used car leasing for max. 500 € per month (incl. VK with GAP etc.): Car: A4, 3, C-Class, Passat Equipment: Diesel, Automatic, Tempomat Running time: 12 to 24 months Running time: 30,000 km / year I know the usual GW-leaser (with the HLA it almost worked, however they had the car between Now I’ve come across www.gwleasing.de. Has one of you already had experiences with them or have you heard about them? P. S.: No, I can’t lease a new car because I’m a freelancer and only finished my studies four months ago -> Credit rating = 0. And yes, I’ve calculated it: for about 4,000 € a year a young, German middle-class vehicle at 30,000 km -> unbeatable P. P. S.: I’ll be connected to gwleasing.de and update here if someone else is looking for experiences with them. Thank you
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Company Cars – Tax Questions / Advantage for AN and AG?
Hello all, I am currently in promising contract negotiations with a new AG. Since my new job is about 90 km (simple journey) away from my place of residence, one of my conditions is the position of a company car. I have now read into the topictile already. However, it is not clear to me yet. I would like to turn to the following example. a) My desired gross wage is 4.500 p/M b) List price of the company car 20,000 EUR c) Distance to the Work (simple journey) 90 km To calculate the net wage there are two possibilities:a) The “money value advantage of travel costs to work” is NOT taxed by the AG.Invoice: List price x 0.03 % x km = 20,000 x 0.03 % x 90 km = 540 EUR plus the money value Vortel des Firmenwagen = 20,000 * 1 % = 200 EUR => The gross wage to be taxed is then 5,240 EUR ( 4,500 + 540 + 200) => Net comes out then 2,270,86 EUR) The “money value advantage of travel costs to work” is issued by the AG. invoice: List price x 0.03 % x km = 20,000 x 0.03 % x 90 km = 540 EUR Minus Paschalization ceiling (= what the AN can sell in the context of its tax explanation about the advertising costs) = 0.3 €/km * 90 km * 15 days = 405 = 135 EUR must “Only” be taxed by the AN plus the monetary values of the company car = 20,000 * 1 % = 200 EUR => The gross wage to be taxed is then 4,835 EUR ( 4,500 + 135 + 200) => Net comes out then 2,482,77 EUR Conclusion: You can see deutl (b) for the AN as clearly better than variant a). What is not quite clear to me, however, why variant b) should also be better for the AG ? This must pay the travel costs for the work path in the amount of 405 EUR plus the tax on the 405 EUR (i.e. 405 * 15% = 60.75 EUR). In total about 465 EUR. In variant a) does this pay all the AN ? I hope you could understand where my problem hangs. According to literature, variant b) is both for the AG as well as for the Au ch the AN better than variant A) In advance thank you for your help
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Motorcycle model consulting
Hi, I am looking for a motorcycle that is inexpensive in maintenance, reliable, low maintenance and easy to maintain. My first motorcycle was new to the XT660R, from the dealer I then sold from financial foundation, then came a used MZ Baghira as Supermoto (also 660 ccm), which then became too expensive for me after a few years, in terms of spare parts and oil consumption and at the end I had a WR125R, which I had to hand out also because of scarce finances. now a 50 ccm 2t China noise, which is unbeatable in maintenance and for the local traffic, in traffic jam also quite usable, however, because I drive 50% – 60% country road and to the tourist and traffic jam season also about 10% of it forest and field paths, I need now again a little more PS. The WR125R was of course wonderful from handling in the traffic jam and off the road. Also you could do as well as everything itself. The two 660ers have been much more fun for this on the country road. Now s I like something in between, air cooling and/or two-stroker preferred. The consumption should already be less than 5 liters and should be suitable for winter, because I don’t have a car and drive the whole year. Performance is second-ranking for the first time. Should be already more than 20 hp and under 150 kg ready to drive. Thanks already for the answers.
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Purchase advice Beginners, vintage cars vs New and boring.
Hello together. Who like me does the driver’s license only at the end of 20, maybe knows that. One has the appearance and all of a sudden the people you knew before just as “drives motorcycle”, in different fractions. The tourers, the racing spinners etc. That’s why it doesn’t make any sense to ask them. At the moment, there’s a bit of inconspicuous about what I should get. At the moment I drive a Yamaha XS400 that still belongs to the parents on paper, but they hardly drive with it. In addition, I have a dislike against too heavy machines, so I actually want nothing more than 200kg, (the 180kg of the XS was to be weighed up 2x already hard enough) Stupid is only, that nowadays everything, which is not a cross machine, lies in the weight range. Also would actually reach me 50 or 60 ps, or to me already the 40 of the XS400, but in the motorcycle area unfortunately the motto “higher faster stupider”, which is why unfortunately nobody builds anything like that, except in the crossbere I. From my environment I got various offers and would be curious what you say about it. Offers from the environment therefore, because I like to know the people of which I buy something because I don’t like to buy the cat in the bag. Suzuki Bandit 650, 6 years old, no 10000km,75 hp, but the last 3 years not 20km driven. Honda NTV in good condition and also driven again and again, well maintained Royal Enfield Bullet 500. What I don’t like about the Bandit is on the one hand the weight, on the other hand the size ße and that this construction that the handlebar moves but the rest of the motorcycle is fixed at the front (no idea how to call it) Of course all say that it is a good beginner machine, but actually I find it as ugly as all modern racing machines. The Royal Enfield I liked the driving and also the optics best, but actually one should have born for an Enfield tools instead of fingers. In the end almost only the NTV over the somewhere dazw and technically their time was also very far ahead. What do you say about it, or how did you decide on your first bike back then.
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Motorcycle pulls in BEDE directions when driving strong. angular tires?
Hello together, after hours of searching in the inet without any real success, I decided to open up a new topic. I am currently looking for a motorcycle and would like to buy a used machine. Last week I drove a motorcycle test. (FZ6N s2 approx.10.000 km) however, the motorcycle pulled in the respective direction of the steering. It turned out that the tyre pressure was too low. After another test drive with correct tyre pressure, the The problem is much lower. However, if you are a little more distracted, the same effect has occurred again: you have to hold on to the handlebar, because otherwise it will steer further into the curve. (hope is to understand). The dealer said that the previous owner had gone “a lot straight ahead” and with new tyres the problem had been solved and there were no more concerns. The tyres of the motorcycle are already close to the wear limit and about 4.5 years old. Now my question: Can it be actually be that this effect occurs only because of the (angular) driven tires? or would another problem be in question? (e.g. steering head bearing, swing) Thanks a lot and LG
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At night driving without light— new trend?
Hello, I’m increasingly meeting some weirdos driving around without light with their 50’s tin cans at night. Is that the way it is everywhere or do I just have such a howler in my town? Mfg Felix
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Self-made motorcycle frame
Hello together, after several motorcycle-oldtimer restorations I would like to start with the construction of my own motorcycle (Old School) next year. I want to build my own frame around a Harley engine. Since I am aware that this is the most delicate part of the box, I am now looking for ‘TÜV/DEKRA requirements’ (welding licenses, certificates etc.) or experiences of other screwdrivers to prepare me accordingly. Can you give me a few basic tips or Li nks give/name so that I can prepare myself accordingly? Greetings Andreas
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Gulf financing
Servus, I have a question and that’s what I have to get a Golf 7. However, not as a cash purchase but financing. At the moment I earn 350€ a month & the car would cost 250, the VW Bank gives me alone with this naturally without a guarantor not this credit. Now the question: How much would my income have to be that I can finance the amount of 250€ without a guarantor? there is something like a table or decide the times so? Of course I get from my parents still money for fuel and from time to time also what of grandparents etc for insurance but as guarantor they do not want to be registered. Another question would still be if I could get the credit only on me from 600€ monthly income then I could also work also where other work e.g. for 250€ so that I get total to 600€ or does not go with 2 different salaries or do I have to tax the money then or not ? Thank you