Hello guys, I wanted to drill out an 8.8 screw on my column drill and failed. I took normal HSS-G drills (Ruko Terrax) – new and no blunt. They are suitable for steels up to 900 N/mm2 tensile strength and should actually be enough. I also drilled an 8.8 screw with the hand drill. But this time nothing went on. I got in a few millimeters well and then only had to turn cutting oil into smoke and blue anlau I can only explain it in such a way that the screw had a higher strength than indicated on the head. Now the question arises what kind of drill I take there. I fear that the failed drill test has led to a hardening and it is now twice as difficult.
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Workshop open with car dealership
Hello dear community, I would like to mention first of all that I have re-registered here and I would like to ask for indulgence if any errors regarding text creations etc. should occur. It is about the following: 2 months ago we moved with our car dealership into new premises. The car dealership was formerly also operated as a car dealership with workshop. However, when we took over the workshop was already rented. Why we were not interested in this further. Now it is so there I don’t know the exact circumstances (I assume that he broke). Anyway, the owner approached me and would like to rent the workshop as well. He also made me a good offer (as I find it) for the rent of the entire property. Problem is now I have little to no idea about the management of a workshop! And a master title to operate a workshop. Of course, I know how to change oil etc. or how to change maturity, but is that enough? May I offer that at all? I don’t want to hire a master who runs the plant saddle. What would you say about it. Do you have any ideas, advice or suggestions? Thank you in advance.
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Braking system Manipulation
Hello dear community, I have registered for the current occasion. We live in an apartment house with >10 parties – actually everything great. However, a woman and her son apparently have massive psychological problems (bipolar disorder probably in combination with other things) and these have recently issued unspecific threats against several neighbors. My neighbor and I somehow at the same time came up with the idea that we would probably have to look at the brake lines regularly . I give the scenario maybe only 1%, but would like to largely exclude this WorstCase for me and my family. Especially since the landlord will soon significantly increase the stress level of the woman. How does one proceed technically to detect manipulations? What would happen specifically with the Golf 6 (BJ2011) during manipulation? -Warning lamp? (probably no) -if one presses the brake pedal two/three times before starting, would one with an eletronic? Pedal at all in the Sta And remember what? – Where would you see a puddle? I change a light candle (diesel), but here I know zero. Everything unsightly, but maybe there’s a technical encouragement from you. Thank you, a worried golf6 driver.
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Distance warning after each braking process with a low final speed
Hello, I have a problem with our Tarraco eHybrid, which is not dramatic, but annoying. After each braking process, the distance sensors turn on beepingly and the corresponding graphic appears on the display of the infotainment. The front sensors are activated frequently, but not always. The whole happens without a vehicle in front or behind me. By pressing the button in the center console, the sensors of course stop again after the next braking. In the vehicle, the 360-degree camera and the factory-side AHK are installed (I only write because they have a “function coupling” to the sensors). I have already cleaned all the sensors meticulously, no improvement. The workshop can detect no error, there is nothing in the error memory (and only then it is allegedly paid by Seat). During the test drive, of course, everything was ok… Would be for a tip on what it might be or how the problem could be fixed. Thank you. I did not find an option in the menus/settings that I can relate to the problem. Thank you in advance! VG
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Saab 9-5 Kombi – Which engine?
Hello Together, due to upcoming offspring, the purchase of a station wagon is planned. Since Saab is to be kept true, a 9-5 would be considered (Father drives 9-3 sports combi, but I find it too small in the rear). However, one reads with horror that the 3.0 TID engine is not exactly reliable. Therefore probably also the many relatively inexpensive used car offers. However, it does not necessarily have to be a diesel, but would be nice. Which engine is recommended as diesel? ll petrol engines robust, or is there also a type of which you should better leave your hands on? What is your opinion? I am grateful for every hint! Best regards Aluauto P.S. It should be already a used car (price advantage)
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I say goodbye quietly “Servus” 🙂
Dear Saabians, I wish you all a good time with your Swedes tanks and say goodbye after numerous ups and downs from the Saab camp, because I have sold my Saabine and now work in another “Premium Camp”. It was fun with you and you have noticed on which high level everything has always worked absolutely promptly. I will miss you and especially the “Spirit of Saab”! Special thanks to the “Kater”! Greetings! mrbean95 Please do not express condolences.
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Power loss 9-5 3.0 TiD Vector
Hello guys, I hope you can help me a little bit. Since a good 3/4 year I belong now also to the Saab family (was always my dream). I bought a 9-5 Kombi Vector 3.0 TiD BJ 12/2003 used (KM at the time 46,000) first hand. The car is otherwise top in shot and has also made no problems. Now about 30,000 km later, the theater goes off. Short description: 1.) remained on BAB, since no fuel in it (pearantly I know, but the remaining kilometer indicator gave m 130 km) The ADAC wanted to read out the memory of the faults, didn’t work. Has “fumbled” about it several times with software from Opel Signum, only came to the OBD data. Since then the following in the SID: Ignition key does not accept to visit workshop. 2.) Since now almost two weeks power losses and stutter when the engine is cold. So far, always after a short stop with parking away. After that he ran like a clockwork. 3.) Weekend after Hall driven, same problem, same solution tried. This time nothing worked. CheckEngine lights up SID says check ok. Since then this already program runs off. One night standing, lamp burns but car ran without problems – – strange – – 4.) This morning no lamp, same problem engine control light approached during the ride, solution unsuccessful. 5.) some high oil consumption as I find so about 1 liter on 10,000 km. I hope you can help me, what is that?? Did this have to do with the attempt Is it always better if you can look at them exactly on your fingers. Please ask for advice. Greetings Muegge75
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Bleuel damage!?
Hey people !!! I have a problem with my escort mk5 xr3i cabriomit 130ps I think it’s a bleuel damage !! I drove on the highway with 120km/h and wanted to get started to overtake and I didn’t even walk into the gas and I noticed how I got in that he didn’t really nip the gas I stepped into the clutch and he died immediately and since then we didn’t jump on the sloping service came and the car picked up was under the car a small e oil paint and the car at the bottom to the preloaded pot everything olig vielicht can help me one more thanks already mfg sascha
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Moped bought, much broken… Read!!
I bought a Aprilia RS 125 Bj 1999 with 24242 km according to Tacho So, times the cards on the table. I bought the thing at Ebay, did not see it before because it stood 450km away from me. Included were among other things New tires+New brakes+New fork bucket rings+New pistons+New clutch. The rear mature has run off, I told him, the Tachwoelle is torn, I told him, there he is with the price at 100Euro down. Since it was yesterday evening 21.30hr when we got the machine ha ben, did I not really notice the rest, so that I noticed many other things only today, like e.g. -fork quadruples a lot of oil (was yesterday clean) -fresh oil tank leaks (was said to be because it just replenished) -coupling grinds, does not separate properly, pulls despite pulled coupling (did I notice on the return trip first) -brakes neither front nor rear new (seen this morning) -tachho snail defective (seen today) For everything I have witnessed. What can ic The seller is only 16, and there was no guardian there, so the contract would have to be theoretically invalid, right?
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Transalp handlebars flutter after steering head bearing change
Hello, now I have my driver’s license since the beginning of the year and am proud owner of “Bärbel” a 97 Honda Transalp PD10. Together we have brought this year so far about 7000km and an accident together. Unfortunately about a month ago the steering head bearing made itself noticeable in the form of a rest point in the straight run. Especially when pressing in curves very unpleasant. So today I broke everything together with the screwdriver of my trust and exchanged the bearings. After six hours of screwing I just turned a test round and it is absolutely sch***e! My handlebar flutter at 30Kmh so bad that I probably look like drunk from behind. From about 100Kmh it is “okey” but not as before. Tyre pressure is normal at 2 bar, was even worse. Now 2.5 bar on it. Since I have undergone some modifications here a list to facilitate the troubleshooting. I am grateful for every advice that solves the problem again. -new Re if Heidenau Scout 60 (changed directly after purchase) -Acerbis hand protectors (came with it today) -Wilbers progressive springs front (for about 3 months) -Lenk head bearing (today) -Underbody protection 5mm aluminium (for 4 months) -Great maintenance (after purchase) -Chain kit (after purchase) -Touring disc (for 4 months) -Running performance around 26tKm Dear greetings