Hi, not always you can read everything on the net and sometimes have to take back the experience values of the users. Therefore I have to ask you a question. As the title already lets guess, I would like to learn something about the accuracy of a impact wrench with following values. 230 volt 900 watt 300 NM breakage force ( I do not know very much) 100 NM limited suit force I can imagine that it matters as everywhere here also to the brand. But to my question : Can you hold on to aluminium wheels without hesitation with the suit from the wheel screws, or are the scatters of the specified 100 NM quite large, so that damage to the aluminums can occur.
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Brake cleaner favorable price in connection with filling quantity
Hello together, I’m just having fun and comparing the brake cleaners, because there are the craziest actions and it’s also striking how fast some are consumed and again others feel longer useable. I’m always weighing my newly bought cans and found out that there are quite different fillings. It would be nice if yours complements my collection. I start with TRW and Mannol. The TRW weighed a total of new with plastic lid 450 g. The Mannol 391 g. The Tara, i.e. the weight of the can with lid, I could already determine with the TRW. This weighed 98 g. Since both cans look the same, it is already clear that the mannol contains 59 g less filling.
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Audi 80 16V does not start, dies in wet weather
My girlfriend drives an Audi 80 16V. Now the problem is that he usually doesn’t jump on wet roads and sometimes he dies even while driving. The problem really only appears on wet roads, nothing is missing in the case of dry roads. So, he can usually start after the 2nd or 3rd time really, then you can also drive, but then he spins. He spins from 900 turns – what my girlfriend as n Or times – suddenly up to 1500, it doesn’t pick up gas and sometimes dies even completely under driving. Ignition coil, idle controller, ignition plug, ignition cable, Lambdasonne… everything new, so it can’t be. I know, by remote diagnosis it’s always bad, but since all the workshops here are baffled, I thought, I just ask, maybe one of you drives the same model and knows what it might be. For help we would be grateful. Greeting, Tanja
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Audi 80 recommended? Pupils
Day! Since I have the rag now in a few days, I am of course looking for a car with my father. I notice the following points that I have set with my father: safety(snack zone etc) reliability spare parts/good availability of the quality price of course consumption In the end we/I came to the Audi 80. And if I’m honest this is really my dream car, I always thought it was awesome. Now we’ve been looking around the whole time. n 1500-2000€ before, my father of course helps with the selection (autoscout or mobile.de). These few offers should be flawless, you can notice more closely only after test drive or phone call with dealer. Now the question: Is such an Audi 80 recommended for beginners? I would like to drive it already a few years. At the moment I am still a student, after high school either Bund or training, whereby I would have of course more money then. How are the consumption values of the car, especially in town(c) a. 5-15km daily)? What about safety? With the insurance? How is the performance defined? So e.g. the 1.6 golf 5 of my mother has 110hp or so, but doesn’t pull at all. 1.8 with 90hp or 2.0 with 116hp? Or a 2.0 with 90hp? What about those with the consumption and there are big differences? I really want to have the car, because it doesn’t only have good values as I find it and promises German quality, but also looks really good.
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Ball joint doesn’t want to get off the drive shaft
I’m still going crazy with this Audi ! The replacement of the drive cuffs at a 95er B4 2.o artet in madness. Now I did a lot of work after hours of shouting in with WD40 and hammering – but now the drive shaft joint at the front doesn’t want to get off the shaft! The cross handlebar is on the ground, is out of the way and I held the shaft with a man and tried to knock down the joint even with a plastic hammer. No chance! The fat central screw is of course already outside (o; Is this thing still secured somehow? Or what do I have to do to make it loose…? Greetings Kenny *so a screwdriver car it the B4 really not!*
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original varnish only available in spray cans?!
I am currently working on my B4 to eliminate a nasty rust plage. I removed rust and applied filler … today it is sanded and continued to work with filler. now I just had to know when ordering the paint (at audio) that I get my paint only in 300ml spray cans (20€)! actually I wanted to apply the paint gun – and now that! now I have ordered a can, but am not happy with the solution – does someone have a suggestion? w Ill just hate to snap the can to get to the paint here still a few pictures of the rust plage and how it looks now … mpbrei
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Escort engine rattles the 1000th 😀
hello! first of all thanks to everyone who knows so much about this and who is trying to help others! am new here in the forum and you have helped me very nicely so far. I got a 1992 rs2000. unfortunately the good piece has so many defects, which we (kumpel + ich) want to eliminate after the row. the restless empty run we have after llrv exchange, new spark plugs as well as throttle valve cleaning (as described here in the forum several times). since the motor also clacks , clapping or as you would otherwise like to call it, we have replaced the hydros (against used…). the engine is running wonderfully, only the clacking is still in exactly the same form (motor oil before and after 5w30). since we have installed used tusks these could have made even nen macken. but isn’t that a little improbable especially since the noise is practically the same? after driving over highway or for more than half an hour the cool water cooks. ie stands on center (where is it if everything is in order, because in the range it is normal yes.?). could the clapping, which becomes faster when the speed is increased and can be heard at load, thus acceleration/starting (with constant speed silent/not to be heard) also elsewhere have its origin (possibly water pump)? it is really hard to locate the noise exactly.. :-(has someone possibly an idea? the engine has 155,000 km on it, 2.0i DOHC RS2000, spark plugs now new, hydros changed (used :-(), cylinder head seal new, valve cover seal new I thank each and every one for a tip/rat! greetings, chris
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Radio without car
Hello all, Have an old Escort radio lying around and would like to get it to run in the basement. It has 9 connections on the back. (1 for antenna, 4 for 2 boxes) For what are the others, or what of them is mass etc. I don’t know exactly what kind of radio it is on the side says: Ford ESRT 22 DPS, otherwise there is nowhere else. From the front it looks exactly like this one http://cgi.ebay.de/…5QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCE_Auto_Hi_Fi_Autoradios?… However, instead of the Tone and Bal Turn knob only a rotary knob without labeling there. Does someone know what the radio is called and how to plug in the rest? (have no adapter has to plug in the cable like this) Greetings Simon
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Ford escort MK6 bj. 1995 a little value/interesting make 😀 …
good tomorrow all together … I was NEVER registered on some “forum-page”, but since I have for some time my escort and this has become optically and technically LANGWEILIG with the time and also annoyed I wanted to ask if by chance you have any tips for me how I can make my car a bit more interissant again!? I have to note that I absolutely have no idea of cars, let alone of tuning, or so … I have … simply count on what I see in my car: – no air conditioning – no electric sliding roof/electric window lifter – has central locking, but unfortunately also not electric (so with remote control, or whatever you call it in this case, unfortunately, it doesn’t come to mind) – has no speedometer – the tacho color is terrible (standart halt) – it shrugs if I don’t go extremely carefully from the gas, the same also with stand gas(rolls)[with gan] g]) – if I let him roll out[in the empty run] it comes from time to time before he drains off if I don’t step on the gas in between :S there are still some things that stöhr me, but I don’t want to bother you ERSTMAL any further… I also have a lot of reason to think about doing something else, because he has too little PS for my opinion (75)…I would like to know what you would do!? would you have a car that is so boring and has a bang, not exactly many PS has, “already” 14 years “old” is still kept and put money into it, or would you let it and try to get rid of it at a reasonable price…?? find so already that he looks really horny from the outside… aso, exactly, he has c.z. only 123000 km on the bump… I would be happy if the people who are of the opinion it would be worthwhile to keep him, give me a few tips what I could do with the thing so everything…!!!ASO, ABOUT POSSIBLE VIELE REPLY I WANT TO BE EXCISED AND I NEED TO BE CONCERNED… … … !!! !!! !!! ____________________________________________________________________________
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First car – what do I have to pay attention to when caring?
Hello guys, this may sound a bit strange now, but it’s not a troll but serious. I bought my first real car (Ford Focus BJ2015). So that it lasts as long as possible, of course, it has to be cared for, maintained etc.. My father died early and I never had a real reference person with whom I could talk about something like cars. Therefore, I also have some idea what to consider. When you consult Google, you often push the What should be taken into account before buying a car, but I am already on. I am especially concerned about care. I am absolutely layman. I have heard of regular refilling of oil already, there is under the bonnet n oil vessel with a rod inside, which indicates the minimum amount of oil correctly? “cooling liquid” you should probably also refill, there is certainly also n tank in the engine yes? And is there enough normal water or does it have to be special liquid? But that almost stops with me. W he looks like a tire, is there something special you have to pay attention to in summer/winter? Have you heard the keywords warm/cold driving, is it just slow to drive until the engine is warm? Drive almost immediately on the AB that is then a bit difficult….usw usf. Is there maybe a “checklist” or something like that for car care? Something like “oil check every 2 weeks, coolant check every 2 weeks, brake check? Would you like the car (of course) to last as long as possible and if possible s Auber rides without screwing up “negligently” himself. Thank you!