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  • Emergency Espace IV 2.2dci 177tkm

    Hello first had the following problem, my Espace 4 2,2ci had the error code P1125 charging pressure magnetic valve quantity to large.After that changed the charging pressure sensor and the solenoid valve because it always went in emergency drive.After that it was now for a time good and jumped only twice on the highway after some time into the emergency drive program, in the city traffic not at all.Now he jumps open again into the emergency drive program but only on the train Bergauf under load, afterwards after new start It also consumes a huge amount of oil about 1liter 100-250km smokes like sow when giving gas gray and white.Don’t know any more. Would be great to get a few tips from you.

  • No connection to the car for ASU acceptance

    Hello, I was on Monday with my car to the tuv. They could not connect to the car for ASU take-off and said that I should go to the workshop. Today I was at ATU and they could not connect their device either. Now I should drive to the Renault. Has someone an idea what it might be. With the error code reader you can connect to the car and read codes. It is BJ 2006 (OBD2) Thanks in advance

  • Real consumption EQS 580 4 Matic

    On many other forums I have seen such a thread – now also with the EQS. I start with the beginning: After the initial enthusiasm for the acceleration has grown, a low consumption is in the focus – and yes, the EQS 580 can also do so in reality: Last weekend: Schaffhausen – Turin via the Montblanc tunnel – motorway ride at 130 km/h and outside temperatures between 8 and -6 degrees: 429 km with 2 stopovers to load because I want to give the hotel in Turin Charging overnight didn’t trust: 429 km at 19.9 kWh/100 km Turin – Milan – Schaffhausen: Autobahnfahrt at 140 km/h in Italy, lower in Switzerland, outside temperatures between 11 and 4 degrees: 491 km at 20.8 kWh; 1 time charging at Ionity without advance notice in the Navi at up to 210 kW. I would have had about 100 km of range. So he can – I’m looking forward to other posts! In December I am still a lot „straightened – free routes in Germany with up to 214 km/h, certainly also longer distances – I came to significantly higher consumptions.

  • EQS350 & EQE350+: charging experiences with the 10-module battery

    In the meantime, my EQS350 has already left the 1,000 mark behind and I report on my charging experience on Ionity fast loaders and show me slightly disappointed with the issue of charging speed with the restriction that the lowest SoC for my vehicle was in the 50% range so far and here the HPC reached almost 120kW charging power, in order to then fall very linearly to about 20kW when reaching the 100% mark. In order to save the 10-module battery, I have to check the charging power from 10 -20% and then up to 80% to evaluate the 32 minutes predicted by MB. The question in the round would now be, how are your experiences on this topic with the EQS350 and EQE350+ models, since both of them have the same characteristics and the same characteristics. Is there a problem?

  • Questions about charging prices and billing

    Since I don’t have any experience yet, the question goes into the round: Can you see at the charging stations what the electricity costs, or do you first find out with the bill. Speaking of invoice: If you charge for example on the motorway, how is the payment handled? If you invite at another public station, how is the payment of a lot? Mercedes offers a tank app (do not know what it is called, something with Me). A card should already be collected in Bremen. In the first year, the company will be able to charge and set up the APP on its mobile phone. Can anyone say more about this? Mercedes in Berlin told me that the card can be used to charge everywhere, but only to pay for the electricity to Mercedes, because Mercedes would pay the charging station operators for its part. If this is really the case, is the price to be paid to Mercedes always the same and if YES, how high? If I could not really imagine the whole thing, I would be grateful for the information. Then another question about the wallbox: The KFW support for private people is exhausted for this year, but in the next one there may be one again. If I really should get the EQE ordered in the fourth quarter of 2022 I thought about it, with the purchase of a wallbox up to 2023 to wait and charge so long from my house socket (using an adapter of 400 volts of my circular saw connection). What do you think about it?

  • EQB 350 long range in planning?

    My parents did a test ride with the EQB 350 this week (1st time electric) and were very excited. Since the two are around 70, the boarding, sitting and driving comfort are very important, all these criteria are met by the Benz. The EQB 350 would be the ideal car if only the battery were a little bigger. I have only a consultative function, but because of the battery, I can’t quite say a purchase recommendation. Comes in the near future a long range version d there 350? All-wheel is needed here in Austria.

  • Which voltage regulator for HONDA CB500 PC32

    Hi together, I bought last week a Honda CB 500 PC32 privately, which drives itself very well. Unfortunately, the battery goes again and again empty. So I have always two with me and usually have to change once a day. I discussed with a mechanic that I now change the voltage regulator and then we see further. If it does not work, he will then look at the machine. From the alternator I leave my fingers, because I have no idea, What kind of voltage regulator can be used? You can get some around 20 euros. The mechanic said that the voltage could be too high and the electronics could be damaged. Do you know what in the price range of 40-50 euros? Or does it really have to be one for 150 euros? Does it have to be a controller for the model? Basically, all of them are designed for 12V systems. But probably there are differences with the speed and the input by the e alternator? The built-in controller has two plugs (Lima + current). Most offers have a plug, but come with a suitable socket. I would just solder it. Do you have to pay attention to the three yellow veins of the alternator or can you do nothing wrong? The battery had 12,78 V when the engine was running. When the speed goes up, it is between 13 and 14 volts (light off). When the light is on, it looks different. Then it has only 12, 4-12.5 V and at high speed 12.7 V. This is not enough and so the battery is empty. If I have already driven something and the battery is weak, the machine simply goes off in idle or even with lansgamer driving. If the battery is really empty, it also goes off in idle when the light is off. I remember: If the ignition is on (without light), the voltage falls from 12,85, 12,84, 12,83, etc. is this for such an old machine. normal? Thank you very much!

  • Gas pressure shock absorber tailgate

    Hello, I found in the bay this gas pressure shock absorber: gas spring, suitcase/load room Stabilus Seat: AronaK If someone knows it, it makes sense to install it and then two. I imagine that the tailgate swings comfortably up with it. And hopefully not too vibrating. Gruss jrbrjhttps://www.ebay.de/…/383250230503?…

  • Oil drain screw: an “insoluble” problem…

    Hello! Yesterday I had the problem that the oil draining screw on a 09 Ford KA was absolutely not to be solved. The thing is probably also that the screw has to be solved with a 12-in-bus, and the screw itself probably also has no sealing ring. In addition, according to other, the screw should be still conical. I broke up a 1/4″ ratchet yesterday and then bent a 12-in-bus (long version). Must say that the car up to now always in the workshop (FF) H) was ,for the purpose of inspection ,and suspect that there was also always sucked off and the screw is jammed tight . Must then well or bad ,because the time was pressing that oil with a pump suck off . What can I do ,to be able to solve the screw still still ,in the future . In addition to warm up still warm ? Impact wrench ? It is an oil pan of steel . From the oil suck off I do not hold much in the long term , but is also not the topic now . For tips I would be very grateful .

  • Converter – automatic transmission

    Hello, our Geleaxy from the year 2011 with automatic transmission has for some time the following errors. Under load, i.e. during mountain climbing or acceleration it does not hold the speed. This always fluctuates in the range of approx. 200U/min. My car mechanic thinks it would be the converter between engine and gearbox defective? Can anyone say something about this? Does this happen more often than not with this car? What has to be done here, can the converter be repaired or where can you get a new one? ? I already had contact car parts24, they don’t have such a thing in delivery. In advance thank you for your help. VG Markus