Hello together, on MT I have been active for a long time, but so far in the Volvo area. Now I have changed to Lexus and want to revive the area here a little, seems to be necessary To the vehicle there is so much to say: the special equipment is manageable, it is the luxury variant, sunroof, manganese violet metallic. I bought the car used, it ran 44,000 km. It is directly at the Lexus dealer a Prins VSI gas system with flashlube (whether ́s helps or also n After 6 years of Volvo V 70, of which 3 years in the diesel, the smooth running of the 8-cylinder is impeccable, the passage is brilliant, the 6-stage automatic switches optimally. The seats – with heating and ventilation – are good, the leather softer and “more valuable” than the Volvo, but I have not yet found the optimal position. The Volvo seats (until 2005 ) were already good…. The gas system works perfectly, switching after warm run to gas unnoticlic h, power is fully available, I can’t say anything about the consumption. By the way, the gas builder said that during the obligatre full-gas test, that – on gas – is not sealed off at 250, maybe this only works on the fuel supply…. I will examine it more closely. It looks like this:
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Lexus GS450h or Mercedes E-Coupe
Hello together I need a new business car and I am still unsure what to buy. I drive about 30’000 km a year, mixed highway, overland, stop and go – pretty much divided to 1/3 each. I find the new coupe optically the hammer, the 350 CGI in a CLS tested – very pleasant, smooth running and has power. I also tested the Lexus, I also like super, very noble interier – maybe less sporty than the Merc, crazy motor – there can be the Me rc don’t keep up, chassis I found pleasant – the CLS was too shabby for me. Momentane Pro and Contras: Mercedes: ++ Superdesign (inside + outside) – by the way, I also sat in Geneva aum Salon + Motor also very good – possibly child diseases (new model) Lexus: + Beautiful design ++ Supermotor + probably the best long-term quality – small trunk Can anyone give me a tip? Thank you PS: I also set the thread in the Mercedes forum ;-))
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Toyota Avensis 2.2 D4-D (110KW/150hp) – all of a sudden I turned out to have a new shortblock
Hello, was in the workshop today and had an air conditioning inspection/maintenance carried out, because the cooling performance seemed somehow “sufficient” to me; however, everything ok and good. What did not come so well with me was the following …… – after I had already described the problem of the oil consumption of < 2 liters 5W-30 original. Toyota Premium oil at approx. 8,000 km mileage, was determined by the workshop, which the front cover seal might be a bit leaky as well as the oil tank seal! In today's conversation I was told only by the side that the car had got a new short block at ca. 70 tkm on Kulanz, because oil consumption at that time > 1.5 liters on 1000 km. That was probably due to damaged oil stripping rings at that time, Toyota should have handled at that time without if and but on Kulanz/Guarantee the whole thing! Well, what should I write now…. – I am badly divided! Why!? Well… – now I drive the tank seal! Toyota Avensis Combi 2.2 D4-D approx. 8000km and I’m satisfied after the reason, however already a lot on warranty/coldness (without cost for me !) was made, e.g. clutch/two-mass swing wheel, the front cover seal at the next inspection (for that the engine comes out!), the oil tank seal comes new at the next inspection, the brake calipers on both sides and then came new before about 50 tkm of the “short block” ! I bought the Toyota because I have a reliable and safe Au to have sufficient space in the interior, well motorized and more or less economical! Now I have my concerns about reliability here and there (so far I didn’t have to pay anything, I would have had to pay ‘what – with all the things that have already come new, that would probably be bad my first and last Toyota!). In my opinion the Avensis drives with the 2.2 liter – diesel top, on the highway with 140 to 160 km/h a poem, m it the six-speed transmission is also relatively quiet, the car is spacious and safe and I like it otherwise! How would you rate or interpret that!? It may be that other manufacturers also have your problems and then often also act far more unculant – I find, however, that it leaves a stain on the “white vest” of the Toyota brand – I personally connect Toyota with reliability and value – even now !!!! 😉 So… no ts for bad…. – in a few days I’m already over it again! 😉 *laughs* By the way…. – because of the economy of the Toyota Avensis 2.2 D4-D – Diesel (110KW/150hp) – I can hardly make it under 6.5 liters/100 km; pendel between 6.5 to 7.5 liters Diesel / 100km – for me still acceptable, the car is now also no “fly weight”, below 7 liters I personally would like better, but the engine is probably not to have too much engine capacity ! MfG Poldi76 P.s.: . ….. – Good driving all the time !
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Audi A4 or Toyota Avensis?
Hello guys , I’m in the middle of a mess right now, and I can’t decide between two cars: Audi A4 02/14 2.0 TDI 150 PS 116 000km Ambitious equipment 16 000€ or Toyota Avensis 12/13 2.2 D-4D (150PS) Parktronic Navigation Start-stop Automatic towing hitch 56 000 km 16 000€ I’m looking for a reliable car and can’t choose between these two. Which would you take? I thank you in advance for your answers
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Toyota Avensis Combi T27 – Engine oil
Good evening, since I have been one of the Avensis drivers for a few days, I have a question at once. (Yes, countless threads in this forum and other posts on the internet on the subject of engine oil I have already searched … maybe I just stand on the hose.)The following car has become it: Toyota Avensis Combi Edition, 1.8 petrol, Built 11/2013 – Lt. Manual I can drive: 20w50 and 15w40, API class or SM multi-range oil OR 10w30, 5w30, 5w20, 0w20, API class SL, SM, or But ILSAC was filled up by the authorized dealer the 5w40 SXR, according to Google API SM / CF, partly SN, this should be here: Elf EVOLUTION SXR 5W-40 API SM / CF Is it possible that the 5w40 is filled up, which is not listed in the manual? (according to Toyota 0800er Hotline is the i.O. API SN would be “better” than SM. For the i.O.) That the 5w40 is not worse than a 5w30 I have already learned and the specification fits yes. But what are these then in the operating instructions “before I also had the mobile 1 0w40 in the garage, specification API SM would also fit. In theory, I could take it just as much to fill up if something is missing?! Would not like to mix things up and give the engine what it had from the beginning. But can it be exactly that in the context of the inspection a different oil comes up again. But what about the warranty, if there is something on the engine, if there is something on the engine. ? How do you see that? … probably think again about things that others wouldn’t itch. But I’m curious 😉
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Yamaha XS 650 – new cylinder head, engine does not start
The following problem has occupied me for days: I changed the cylinder head on my XS650 and reassembled the thing properly. Now the part doesn’t start. Except two or three loud false ignitions on both cylinders – real shots – nothing happens. I have set both valves and ignition. However, I have to say the following: when setting the interrupter for the left cylinder, I’m not sure if I’m the right point for the When does this take place? 180 degrees after the opening of the interrupter for the right cylinder? At the setting ignition for left cylinder, the test lamp lights up too early if the marking is about one centimetre to the left of the early ignition marking. This cannot be changed, even by turning the disc. I suspect that I am making some fundamental mistake, and I would be very grateful if someone would give me a Before the cylinder head installation everything worked normal. I disassembled the ignition plate into the individual parts to clean it and replace the screws. Thanks Peter
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Performance data (Vmax + acceleration) of the XJ 600 Diversion
Hi , I don’t find any reasonable, summarized information about the performance data of a Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion (from the 90s). What about the following data: 1) 0 – 100 61PS, 0 – 60 61PS (seconds) 2) 0 – 100 34PS, 0 – 60 34PS (seconds) 3) Vmax 34PS If someone knows more, always bring it Thank you and best regards Deady
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Sprocket Eated and Chain Strikes
Hello R6 municipality, I have a problem with my Yamaha R6 Rj05. I recently changed the chain including chain wheel. Chain wreath should also be changed, but it is welded. I left the old one simply before I break the swing and everything around, it also looks OK. My problem is, however, that the chain wheel is a little eating, is not bad but it is eating a little left <->right. I hope you can see this in the video. What makes me worry more is the Sch the chain. Can it be that the chain strikes so when the protective seal (plastic part on the swing where the chain rolls over) is worn off from the old chain. The old chain was unevenly elongated and therefore it has repeatedly hit the seal and the seal now looks like it is milled with a milling machine from above. Can it be normal when the motorad is up? When driving the situation is better in my opinion. Please for help! The groove bearing where the socket comes in is also new, it was broken. Video:Video Thank you in advance Lg dulevw
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Ignition problems with Yamaha Dt 175 MX
Hello! After my father lost the intress on the motorcycle 30 years ago and so the machine wandered into the cellar I now stand in front of the vehicle and am easily restored. Now the following problem has occurred: It is not possible for me to find the error why I do not get a spark. I have already checked the following: spark plug, spark plug plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil and from the black box I assume that it works. If I step the kicker ha b i briefly a low voltage on the multimeter, or it does in any case what. It is a CDI ignition (where the capacitor is located) There can be no wear due to movement of the machine because the machine has just 4000 km on the tacho. So my question: What can it be that I don’t get an ignition spark or what can I still measure so that I can check / exclude error sources.
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Brake pump does not pump
Hello together, I hope you can help me. I’m getting my DT125 back in shape after 6 years and now I have the following problem. If I have assembled everything correctly at the brake, fill in brake fluid Dot 4 and start pumping the liquid in the container will simply not less. The brake pump does not pump. I then disassembled it and also saw that it was no longer top in shot. So bought a used new one and tested it again before assembly. T. Liquid in and pumped. Nothing came up. Then this one also disassembled, everything looked good. Reassembled and assembled. At first came when pumping bubbles, but brake fluid didn’t come out. What could that be? I’m really stunned. Pumping does the new one. You heard it even before brake fluid was in there.