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  • Starter R1 RN 12 defective?

    Hello dear forum, I have been fighting with occasional starting problems of my R1 for some time now and hopefully have circled the error on the starter now. But I would like to have confirmed this by myself again roughly before I get one out of the bay! Not that it comes to something else afterwards…. I know that a remote diagnosis is always a bit difficult but I hope the one or the other can say something about it…. The following error picture appears occasionally…… Try to start the R1 – it either blows through as if the battery was empty (at first at creep current but the battery is fully charged) you can then press the start button several times until only the relay claps and the yellow light lights up in the display or – There is no turning of the starter and only the yellow lamp lights up in the display. or – In about 70% of the cases it starts quite normally as it should, that does not make it better of course…. Now I thought that it is the starter, possibly the free run of the clamps, so gear in, moped with inserted gear once shortly before and back, gear out again and see there the little jumps problemlessly. I therefore suspect the starter having a blow (possibly the free run??), now it is extremely uncool not to be able to rely on his moped, therefore I would like to replace the starter. Since I am not so 100% sure if I have circled the error correctly I hope you can h Is it possible that I can first expand the starter and test it?? So not only that it turns when I connect it to power but possibly also the free run… Thanks for your efforts and comes well into the season and above all comes home safely again and again!!!! Torben

  • Empty battery – leak current?

    Hello, maybe someone has some advice? Could not start 3 times, every time starting aid over the starter (current “injected” with a screwdriver). Suspected old battery. Switched. Since the battery is preloaded, it went well several times. 2 weeks had standing (weather…) and again. Battery almost dead. Sounds like a leak current, doesn’t it? The alternator seems to be iO, everything runs, light bright, flickering nothing. Forcibly, that the battery is charged (direct connection alternator ~ battery) or is there another extra component that you have to check? Parked also not on (grip heating, light, ….) During the ride also the handle heating is not used. If it should be a leak current, how do you find such a thing? Thanks in advance!

  • Yamaha R6 on 45 hp (33kw) can throttle?

    So you can’t throttle to 48 hp, because the yamaha doesn’t weigh 175kg, but only 166. According to StVO you have to meet the condition 0.2Kw per kg with the A2 driver’s license. Therefore you can throttle a 166 kg yamaha to 33.2 KW (who can’t understand this just 0.2 times 166 rakes already you have the permissible kW), that is 45,something PS. Since I don’t want to lower the Yamaha to 34 ps, since this is only unnecessary missing hp, I wonder if it’s possible the Yamaha to 45 hp (33 kW) Mfg Zaypix

  • Closer selection Kawa 650 vs Yamaha MT07 (coming from TDM)

    Hi, As described above, I have both in the narrow selection. Z650 I drove extensively. Like both very well. Performance-wise both are also very close to each other. The MT has a 180 tire at the rear and therefore wider than the one from Kawa. Does someone know each other with both machines and can help me with my decision? Drive currently the TDM but that doesn’t last forever. And the MT seems to be a little higher like the Z650. I find both qualitatively really good so please ni cht argue, however, needs a decision support. New or 1-3 years motorcycles in any case come into question with ABS. Thanks already for the help!

  • Yamaha xte 600 (97) – Operating temperature important?

    Moin, I’m a fresh owner of a yamaha xte 600 from the year 97 I always start it in the choke, and let it run warm. Depending on how much time I have, I’ll just drive away sooner or later. For this reason, I wanted to know if the operating temperature plays an important role. So if it’s bad for the motorcycle to speed it up directly to 100kmh at 30 degrees. Or if it doesn’t matter. How about short-circuiting. Should you always decide on a certain I’d be happy if someone would answer the very simple question for you. They have to be put to you too. I’d love to say hello to Frederik.

  • Pipes from the engine compartment

    Good day, I’ve been having a high frequency pipe for some time, which comes from the engine compartment or exactly said where the flat belt and LiMa is. A visit to the workshop revealed that it comes from the LiMa. Was first also my guess. Now yesterday the LiMa was exchanged and today I notice it still whistles. It seems to me that it comes somewhere from below, but it is very difficult to say exactly. Early when the engine is still cold, it whistles more. Driving is not so much to hear anymore. With old ventilation it whistles somehow more strongly, however, also the speed increases something. So now does not necessarily have to have something to do with ventilation?! If you turn off the ventilation and other consumers, you notice no difference. It whistles then about immediately. In your room you can hardly hear it, only if it is quiet and you listen closely. Outside you hear it more clearly and if the bonnet is open and you approach the belt, h If you get some gas, you don’t hear anything anymore. Very rainy. If the speed goes down then you can hear a bit whistling in the interior. When accelerating in the first and second gear you can also hear a quiet whistle when the engine is still cold. The smell is very close to that, on the video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9j-yZ-TfVDw Data about the vehicle: Toyota Avensis 1.8l petrol 147 hp, BJ 2012, 35000 KM I would be happy if someone could say something about this problem? n new workshop visit can become very expensive again.

  • Circuit hooky – from the 3rd –> 4th gear and from the 4th –> 5th gear, at cold temperatures < 5 degrees C.

    Hello, our recently acquired Toyota Avensis (T27) Kombi 2.2 D4-D (110KW/150hp) with a mileage of now approx. 111,000 km weakens a little with regard to the manual transmission, the circuit is rough at temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius, as soon as you have driven about 30 kilometers, the problem in the range of gears 3 to 5 is already noticeably better, whereby it is subjectively still “something”, in cold condition and below 5 degrees Celsius My question(s): 1.) Is there a gear oil change remedy here!? The Toyota workshop recommends this first – would like to make a test drive soon and then possibly carry out a gear oil change? 2.) Which specification must the gear oil meet, on the Internet one reads much, is the 75W90 correct and specification APL 4+? 3.) Could a change of brake fluid (DOT 4) possibly, because hydraulic brake and clutch system for improvement s 4.) Exchange or lubrication of the rope hoists (if any)? For advice, hints, suggestions I would be grateful and remain with kind greetings Poldi76 P.s.: …. always good ride !

  • Seat heating Toyota Avensis T25

    Hello, since 07/07 have an Avensis Kombi D4D and the seat heating driver and passenger was defective from the beginning. The heating mats were then replaced on guarantee. However, it is now that the seat heating with full setting (rotary wheel) never brings the desired heating power. My wife is very sensitive there. Again with Toyota I realized that with 3 other cars of the same type a seat test together with the master brought the same result. atein now also at the end. It seems in his opinion to be a Toyoty Avensis problem. Who can help me? Is the problem known? Does it bother you too? What can be done? Thank you Greetings Finanzleibi

  • Buying aid T25

    Hi, everybody, we’re just about to buy a car. So far, my better half had a polo (9N3) and I had an old Vectra A that now has to go at the aged age of 24 years. So, since we also have a cottage with garden, there’s always something to transport with the trailer or bigger in the trunk. So a station wagon should come from… From budget it will probably be something up to 7000 or a maximum of 8000. In the selection I took some easy: Avensis T25, Ford Mondeo, Opel Ve ctra C and Skoda Octavia. Now every manufacturer and every model has its own quirks, that’s why my questions. It’s supposed to be more of a gasoline truck. We drive everyday rather short distance, only on weekends times over land. Overall also rather cozy than fast. Rather a quiet, quiet car, than a sporty drone. For the Avensis thus only the 1.8 or 2 liter gasoline truck is considered. I avoid the Xenon headlights if I can. There is something else to consider. or tips? I also found one that would agree to us, especially since my girlfriend knows someone at the car dealership. Is probably more overpriced at such a car dealership, maybe I can still make them feel the AHK incl. assembly from the cross…. http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?…

  • SL 55 with strange keyless go problem

    I use my SL55 (July 2002) only with Keyless-Go. After some electronic-related workshop stays I now have the following problem: If I park and lock the car and come back within 4 hours, then I can open the door normally, sit in it, and start the engine with the first push on the start button. No problem. If I come back after more than 4 hours, then I can also open the door normally, but at the first push on the star The key symbol comes in the display and the display “keys not recognized”. Only when I press the start button a second time, the engine starts. The difference is quite exactly 4 hours, i.e. after 3.5 hours of standstill, the engine starts regularly the first time, and after 4.5 hours never. It may sound crazy, but it annoys me very much. For the workshop the problem should be very difficult, because they only get a maximum try al Is there a problem like this before or does anyone know anything about it? Thank you. Falk Kuebler