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Hello dear forum community, I’m looking for an XC90 for a good price / performance ratio. Now I’ve seen an offer, but ask me … is the price normal? A 12/06, 1st hand, 7-seater with 88,000 km for a good 23.000€. Strange is, Grantie possible +650€, but is a dealer. 4.5 hours driving time (one distance) want to be well thought out. For just to look a little bit far away! Or should you better buy in the vicinity if problems with the vehicle occur? A “about” comparison offer 02/06, 1st hand, 7-seater with 60,000 km for a good 28,000€ with the difference of almost 5,000€! My dealer on site is always something very expensive than others! What experiences did you have?

Hello, I’m not a VOLVO driver, but I’m interested in his quirks: A good customer of mine has had an XC90 for 15 months. In Nov.06 he got it at 97 Tkm: engine damage. But the friendly ones of VOLVO from Cologne let their surprise run free: THE WHEN the FIRST MOTORSCHADEN of an XC90 D5 at all, they even wanted to have the machine picked up for further investigations in Sweden. But now the BEST: before four DAYS after another 14 TKM with the new MASCHINE: the next MOTOR dead, again at > 180 kmh on the highway. And again the same fairy tales: VOLVO can’t explain! Has anyone experienced something similar??

When driving away in the first gear, the wheels often spin off. Even with snow-covered roads, I often get stuck. I’ve been in the workshop several times, the problem has not yet been resolved. Lt. Information from the workshop should be a flaw of the last v70 series. Who still has the problem and must I be satisfied with it?

Tank flaps Locking has been out for years. Now with the high gasoline prices it would be hasty. quite useful. With little effort revitalizeable?

Moin, I have read many articles, yet a short question: Climate cools at “normal” outdoor temperatures (e.g. 18 degrees) perfect – temperature in the air channel between 3 and 5 degrees. The clutch is coupling – compressor runs – at 3 degrees it goes out and at 5-6 degrees it is coupling again and runs along. In brutal heat it runs normally – it gets cold – after about 5 minutes and that unfortunately stays the same. After a certain service life it is the same. Can it lie on the coolant? Actually, the The plant was filled half a year ago because the LLK came new and the climate cooler was out. But I don’t trust the roasting completely. So let the first measure do a climate service, or first check something else?

MOIN! So now it’s time… The 630,000KM are done, and all with the 1st engine, turbo, coupling etc… The thickness is moved daily about 600KM sometimes also up to 1200KM. Data: V70 II D5 Mj03 with manual circuit Easy this feeling to enter every morning, turn the key and hear the 5 cylinder buzzing…I still can’t believe 630,000KM and rides better than any new pass. After such a mileage one would actually look like traces of usage. n and look for uses in the interior, but there is nothing available. NO worn-out steering wheel, no cracked leather stud etc… Some cars look much worse after 100,000KM. The best one comes to the end. I bought the thick one from a retired person with 34,000KM. In the well 600,000KM no repairs except normal wear parts and the usual service at Volvo. Also the astonishment not bad when they look at the KM stand. I hope that my fat one still many more KM will accompany… And hopefully carefree Greets, radiogo7

Evening, the title is actually already the question. After I have been looking for the right dampers in the net for 2 hours, and have not come to a reasonable result, I simply ask you. mMn would have to be the c1501 for the R….the 1503 for the XC70 and therefore the 1502 or 2502 for the “normal” V70? Could someone please confirm that? My chassis carries the internal identifier “500661”, if this contributes to the solution search. r to build up? Greetings Ricardo

Hello together, maybe someone can tell me what the brake change in front disks and blocks costs at my XC 90. Have the big brake system in it and would like to have it done with the friendly. thank you Matthias

Hello forum, I’m going to open a new topic again, because I just want to finally have my V70 back on the road or if it’s uneconomical it will make it money. For the first time the facts so far: I bought the car as a hobbyist with engine damage. “No oil pressure to turn off engine” (in idle when cold, in warm condition only sporadically). I didn’t know myself with Volvo and the ventilation problem yet, so I thought oil change and is good, maybe still ne Engine flushing. Oil sludge/oil crust up if you took off the oil filler cover (see picture). Nothing of the oil change, had given it in workshop, which said after disassembly of the oil pan chips were in it, you would never get out again, engine must be new. MTVolvo from this forum meant maybe you can still save it, had they done many times, store shells and thoroughly clean up. That’s my dilemma now. So striving for a rescue and after an expensive diagnosis in the end still had to have new engine? If I don’t want to sink any money, I still have to make the domed warehouses (noise). That’s why I decided to open the engine as far as I can. If I can’t get any further, I’ll ask here. If I find something funny, I’ll put it here and hope for feedback. I’d like to look at the camshafts, possibly also the combustion chambers. Then I want to take off the oil pan and look at the storage shells and the crankshaft. All d The car has a new cylinder head gasket which I see from a part calculation. So it was definitely hot. I don’t know if it was properly installed. The engine doesn’t use water as far as I can judge it. It has a good power, the turbo doesn’t whistle or anything (but there’s some air in it somewhere). The car has a gas system from Prins (75PSI stands on such a component that I First of all I have now taken out the spark plugs. On the way there I have put out the large suction tube and the hose of the bottom (to the charge air cooler?) goes out. On two pictures of the hose. Is the such coking normal? What does this coking conclude? Liquid oil came completely a drop from the suction tube. Now to the spark plugs: the spark plugs all go out easily. The middle, however, sits so firmly that I can only release them laboriously. I look at them: Threads murks. So they have already sat in there I did not screw up the thread, someone has tortured it in there. What do you do in such a case? Besides, the shaft of this spark plug is darker than that of the other (see picture) and in the bottom, you see also, is such a black rubber shit, of which probably also parts have fallen into the combustion chamber. Can one say so far about the condition of the engine? I would now like to take off the VDD and the camshaft ancha uen. Can you relax this tensioner somehow and then simply remove the timing belt? Do I have to center the camshaft with the motor or can you just lift the VDD up here?