Blog

Moin, has been having a problem with my e81 for 3 months. He does quite normal when he’s cold, when he’s warm (about 95°) then he drives normally, but as soon as I shut down the engine, it doesn’t turn on anymore, cranks can be heard (video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7y1-kyYEoWw), but the engine just doesn’t want to start. The thing is the car drives perfectly even if the engine is hot, just when I shut it off the theater starts. After about 15 minutes runs away I have already changed: -Zündkerzen & Zündspulen -Nockenwellensensor -Kurbelwellensensor -Luftmassmesser -Lambdasonden vorm Kat -Noxsensor -Fuel pump (low pressure) I also removed and tested the injectors and also cleaned for safe maintenance-> do not drop fuel pressure is present and according to ISTA in the green area codes there is no (more, had before several codes concerning nox sensor and lambasonde n, but have they since the change not at all) suspect maybe any relays, temperature sensors or ECU? Or a combination of it. Do not know me with the electrics really well. I have already brought car to BMW, which meant they don’t want to try and test until the control chain is changed

Vehicle data: F10 535d X-Drive 313PS N57Z 10/2011 mileage 312,000km of new engine, turbos and DPF at 260.000km. Proplem: Light oil mist comes from the opening in which the throttle actuator starts or at this shaft. At this point it spoils me the engine. I place pictures of the place with the oil outlet in the appendix. Randinfos: The suction bridge has been cleaned and is tight apart from that. The throttle actuator works perfectly. I would hate 200€ for a new suction bridge I first build a stopper and put the flaps heavy heart dead. The thickness runs silk-soft consumption at around 8l to 100km no problems up to now. I would like to maintain the function of the flaps and solve the problem via a seal. Question; Is there a solution approach from the community? Or a seal which can be bought or retrofitted to solve the problem? Or is the low oil mist at the place to be left and has no negative impact on the engine? Many thanks to the active cooperation of the F10 community.

Good day My father has a bmw 735i with a n62 v8, if I am not mistaken. We have extreme problem with cylinder 7/8 when we start it cold the idle speed varies between 600 and 1200 u/min, because cylinder 7/8 probably strikes. The ignition oscillators stay but even if the vehicle was warm sometimes everything is normal but I don’t know why. So I couldn’t reproduce it as if it was random. I would like to solve the problem myself. without a workshop but unfortunately I don’t know so well with troubleshooting and so on so I hope someone nice might want to be at my side We have already replaced the spark plugs and coils but did not bring anything cylinder 5/6 are sometimes also in the error memory.

Hello! Unfortunately I have a too high charging pressure at my F30 335i BJ2013 (PWG Wastegate!). The charging pressure is actually almost always above the target (see logs below) and at over 200km/h it switches then also depending on the mood into the emergency mode. Ignition then everything is normal again. Have a Katlose Downpipe installed and since there actually also the problem, before it had not. I drove first with original software with the Katlose DP, but of course so snow ll as possible MHD Stage 1 installed now because I don’t want to drive around with Katlos on factory software. I hoped it would solve the problem by the Stage 1 but still the charging pressure is too high. Have changed the pressure converter today, and no difference in behavior. Do you think it could come from the SUV? I can’t believe it somehow, but will it still change next week. You have an idea? From the DP it can’t come somehow, because the charging pressure is regulated we d through the Wastegate. Also striking is when you suddenly go off the gas that the boost rises significantly short and then sinks again (see logs!) Thanks for the help! https://datazap.me/…/f30-boost-pressure-too-high?log=0&%3Bdata=3

Hello dear E53 Community, my Dicker X5E53 3.0d M57/TU BJ 2006 has already over 150,000 km on it and I want to exchange KGE with him precautionaryly. I was with the friendly yesterday and the offer was KGE+sealings+4 screws = 198€. I find it too much for a plastic part with 2 seals and screws. After that I was at the steel pit and there I get the whole set for a fraction of the top sum. Problem is that it is from the company AIC, supposedly own brand. Experience with this? I have read that you should avoid the KGE of Vaico. Does anyone already have experience with KGE of AIC? Or which manufacturer of KGE would you recommend? Do you really need to change the plastic part (ventilation unit 11127799225) or is it enough to replace rubber seals (11127793165 and 11127793166) and filters in the ventilation unit? Thank you for your feedback!