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  • Speedfight 2 kills me, just doesn’t want to

    It is a Speedfight 2, LC, BJ 2004 with WFS and electr. Oil pump As far as screwdriving is concerned I am not a full professional but also no bloody beginner. So a little experience is already available, nevertheless this scooter really gets me finished. The scooter was bought about 2 months ago and did not run. Sparke was weak and bluish, candle remained dry. No thing, Luffi disassembled and cleaned, carburettor also (brake cleaner, compressed air, etc) New candle turned in, ZK plug made new because the old one was brittle. Result: the candle now sparks strong blue, but remained still dry after countless attempts. A compression test then returned almost 7 bar at a mileage of 13TKM, which seemed to me a little too little. So Vario and LIMA opened up and emptied and look, both Simmerrings were clappy wet and the KW had plenty of play. So motor split, a bearing had only 3 balls and new bearings and Simmerrings installed, the KW I left it, because it made me a good impression after the knock test and even seemed like new. For this there was a new cylinder including piston the old looked no longer really great and a new membrane block which now really closes correctly. Compression is now at something over 9 bar should actually be extra-rich at least the ZK is wet now, but the engine nevertheless does not start. Start-up spray in the lollipop or directly into the ZK hole did not bring any success. again I have the feeling that a bit ignites but it is not enough that the engine starts. occasionally small smoke clouds come out of the exhaust (which is absolutely free by the way) I tried the different settings on the carburetor and nothing changed. currently I have the mixture screw out only three-quarters of a turn, because my other Speedy starts well with it. Today I noticed that the battery has only 12 volts. So I have a new and fully charged e Dran hung and that suddenly only had 3V. Then I pulled off all the plugs and measured until I arrived at the CDI. When the plug was plugged down the voltage remained at 12,7V. Do I have to look for a break in the cable or did I shoot the CDI? My CDI has 2 plugs, one seperate for the WFS. If I have to buy a new one, which costs almost 80 Euro the WFS must be learned as with the car and how does it work? can you even do this yourself? if the learning is done n must, could I take the old cdi only for the WFS (the circuit was ok) and the other plug into the new CDI? I also saw that there are CDI’s supposed to bridge the WFS, does that work or rather fingers away? Could it really be in my case that the CDI is gone and the scooter finally starts with a new one then or do you think that the problem could lie somewhere else? I’m curious about your opinions. SG Rob

  • Skip maintenance intervals?

    Greetings together. Hope my request reaches you well. Thank you for your time. My sym HD 300 as well as many other scooters have quite tight maintenance intervals of 5000km. Maybe a stupid question but…are these really necessary or is this quasi the “hook” for the relatively good new price? Had a look at the Honda Forza 750 once, which is of course twice as expensive, but has 12,000km maintenance intervals. Thus, a balance inside is relatively fast. are the motors and parts really so much different in the care? And finally a separate question…. Glass cleaner for the scooter Ok? Drive through the year in wind and weather. But make it regularly clean 1-2 a month. Thank you very much.

  • Speedfight II doesn’t start anymore

    I went off the way down and scooter ran well until he got rid of the gas and then didn’t jump at all. Then had to go home with the train incl. scooter and then checked the following: Sparkling carburetors Gasoline supply Cylinders On the piston I found very small grains of sand but no abrasion on the cylinder walls. No plan why it no longer concerns. But the noise in the video is new to me (which unfortunately I can’t upload so I took a picture of my scooter on the train).Maybe it’s the V-belt but I’m not sure

  • Inspection at 38,000 km after 3 1/2 years

    Arona 1.0 TSI 115 PS The usual maintenance work was carried out, so far so good. But the prices seem to me a bit exaggerated. Pollen filter = 57,20 €, installation and installation = 12,80 €, plus VAT, together 83,30 € gross. Oil 0W20 23,61 €/ltr. I accept, as well as the usual invoice filling small collar for approx. 25,– €. As “additional work” stands spark plug change on the invoice. Per candle are calculated 35,19 €. In addition 76,80 € for 3 spark plugs change. He changes candles 182,37 €, in addition comes the VAT. Makes then brutto 207,02 €. That seems rather happy to me. I am glad that I don’t have a 12-cylinder. Which candles are the right ones here? In the net I find e.g. BOSCH Double Platinum for approx. 11,50 €. As a classic car screwdriver I certainly don’t need an entire hour to change 3 candles on this engine. These are works that I do myself after the expiry of the warranty period.

  • Ignition rings at the DOHC

    Hello, I have a Sierra DOHC (120 hp ), 1990 year, 198,000 km mileage. The ignition rings as soon as I accelerate a little bit more. This noise only occurs when the car is really warm. In cold condition the noise is not heard. My impression is that it is stronger at high outside temperatures than at low outside temperatures. The Sierra is definitely fuelled with the right fuel. At Ford you could not explain the thing. It’s just that I’m supposed to keep on watching (I’ll do it too, but I don’t think it’s gonna change anything). Otherwise the engine is running perfectly normal. The ringing hasn’t gotten any worse over time, it’s only dependent on the temperature. Even if the Sierra slowly mutates to the grandpa, I’d like to drive it even longer. I’m afraid, however, that the ringing can’t be healthy in the long run. Maybe one of you has a suspicion. I’m grateful for any advice. MfG Kohl beet

  • Was not successful in the search. Who can help with wiring?

    I have problems with the second car. So far the Spacestar has always provided me with good services and I hope that he can continue to do so. It is a spacestar year 1999 with a climate nail, 1.3 with 85 hp. The left headlight apparently gave up the spirit. The bulb is fine, but has installed a spare light, but it also does not work. The fuse is also fine. The right headlight is perfect. Cable remained unsuccessful, could have been that it could have broken the cable somewhere directly at the connection, but there is probably no wobbly contact in the immediate vicinity of the headlight connection. I fear that now somewhere on the way from the headlight to the other end of the cable the cable is interrupted. Can someone tell me how the cable moves inside the body and if you get there well to check or change it? The workshop instructions that I I’m grateful for any help. I’m grateful for any help.

  • Battery

    Hello, maybe the question was already asked, but I did not find anything suitable for it: Short history: Recently I have a few problems with my SpaceStar year 2003. Everything started with that I had changed the timing belt at 106000km in the summer. Then began to squeak in the first colder nights of the belt. I then went to the workshop and changed the 2 belts. Next I could not start the car any more, as the battery almost en Then I made the mistake and removed the battery and recharged it in the house again. (I didn’t want to read the car so openly on the road). From now on the problems started to really start. The idle speed no longer fits when it is warm and the window lifters no longer go automatically to or on after a longer press of the switch. I don’t want to know what still does not work at all. I now have some guesses. 1. The battery seems to be only poorly charged while driving, since after a week I have to recharge again by hand. (the battery seems to me to be relatively weak anyway (it is the first one), since from the beginning, when I had the air conditioner turned on, the terminal became darker at short notice). 2. The belts still squeak the first meters. (in the workshop they wanted to see if the tensioning elements were still working properly. n when swapping the belts?) Now to my question: Which battery should I buy (recommendation?). Can I install a stronger one so that the above mentioned problem with the light can also be solved immediately? Do I have to get back to the default values in the workshop around the idle speed (or the engine default setting)? The same is probably true for the window lifters) What does this cost me approx.?

  • Frozen disks despite climate

    In spite of the defrosting and activated climate, the windshield strikes from the inside after motor start and it takes a long time until it is free. Also the side windows fogged and back it takes a sense of eternity until the dry. In wet weather even worse. The car is only a month old. Does the i10 have such a modest climate system, do you have similar experiences or does this indicate a lack of clarity? What tips to avoid fitting? I am used to having fitting with air conditioning and strong ventilation on the windshield is free again in a short time. In extreme cases, it normally helps to deactivate the climate some km before driving to dry the channels and the evaporator, but with short distance this is not possible. I wonder if there is a problem, or if the i10 was just poorly constructed. Before we have to deal with the dealer, I would like to hear your opinion from the beginning.

  • Something about the cylinder conversions 🙂

    I’ve been reading here a lot lately that some people have been thinking about fueling up 50s mopeds. From their own experience (build a completely installed Gilera Runner 50 SP ) back again and that’s a bit tedious. It only brings you “quickly” to change the cylinder/piston. Answers about this are enough here, sometimes apart from the legal side. Often the carburettor has to be adapted or even a new one in. The Vario is not spared either b and and and. In addition comes the necessary technical understanding ( and no I am also not the dear God and do not know everything ). Take the money and go with wife/girlfriend/partner nice food and you make someone happy, even the constant look in the rear-view mirror is not so necessary up to the traffic. Sometimes so my thoughts about it. Greeting Parunzel

  • Honda Bali sleeve left

    Servus, I’m just about to “revise” my Honda Bali because there were some things that had to be done simply, I’m also so satisfied and only have a little problem, maybe one of you has the saving notice After I disassembled the scooter I had a part left, it’s a sleeve, I hang 3 pictures on which you can see the well, my problem is I don’t know where this sleeve came from, which was suddenly under the rear tire… comes in the carburetor almost in the air channel over the needle coming from above from the gas train, but does that really make sense? Vll has one of you nen tip… thank you already Stefan