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I have installed a marten protection, a combined system with ultrasonic and high voltage. The power supply is directly via battery plus and battery minus. There is no connection to terminal 15. Whether the vehicle is driving or parking, is determined by the battery voltage. Above 13,x V, the integrated control unit assumes that the engine is running and shuts off the system. So far all this is clear. Now there is an additional bonnet contact, the system b The switch is connected only to a single cable, which leads to 300 V voltage, i.e. the normal operating voltage of the electrical contacts. According to the installation instructions, the switch itself must be well connected to ground by means of its fastening screw. How does this work? The switch cannot do more than to establish or disconnect the connection to the ground. A connection between Mass and +300 V would be a short circuit.

Hello people, I need help with the following simple task from the field of car electrics. The reason is professional requirements outside of the public road country. Start-stop-Automatics Automatic switching of the main headlights switched on to stand light and vice versa at engine start. Daylight switch or button for one-time deactivation, i.e. at next engine start it is automatically again. I unfortunately do not know the ideal separation point, tend I would have the b If the alternator does not charge, the maximum level of light will work. I would separate the daytime running light on the respective veins just before the lamp and switch a relay with a common button in the amaturary board. Who has ideas about this? How would you solve the problem? Which components would you use?

Hello together, *hope, I’m in the right forum* I would like to address a topic that mMn. is too short and I’m looking forward to your opinions. As a private hobby screwdriver, I find it very difficult to get to the technical documentation of the car manufacturers. Fortunately, you can solve many problems with technical expertise. But when it comes to electrics and complex repairs, modern vehicles without the manufacturer’s technical data are almost the same. This starts with the right tightening moment for a screw and goes up to the documentation of the electrotechnical/digital systems. Apart from this, decent repair guides often save a lot of time and errors. Even in the area of CAN diagnostics and programming you can’t get very far without proper documentation if you can’t afford a fully documented diagnostic system. You can forget about the manual at all. The costs for most hobby screwdrivers are simply too high. But even there are often important information missing. Just like with the good old “So is it done” books. Information platforms of the manufacturers (e.g. erWin of VW) are beyond expensive. So the big research starts in the vast expanses of the Internet, which according to experience is not always crowned by success. Nevertheless, I am very grateful to communities and forums, like this one. The manufacturers should be obliged to make all technical documentation available to their customers free of charge. It is an unding that private customers, but also free workshops, must invest in this technical information and that manufacturers still enrich themselves with it. Especially from the point of view of sustainability, this should be a matter of course. I study computer science and there almost everything lives from detailed documentation. Since I am used to excellent documentation, these business practices of the car manufacturers very upset me. How do you see the whole thing? Where do you get your information? I’m looking forward to your opinion on the topic!

Salut with each other, We still have an old Honda Civic Diesel as an occasional second vehicle (such as a mercy bread story, has always been a reliable workhorse) which had a Macke in the spring and pulled the battery empty during the ride. The called ADAC knocked around the alternator and loaded the battery, afterwards everything was ok again. His diagnosis: coals have jammed. Now he got the same modifications again before the summer vacation, too scarce to make it even before the holiday This time it went so far that the whole tree lit up in the dashboard and Servo & Co had no support when pushing on the last meters of the driveway. Now, after the holiday, the old battery showed 0.0 volts, I thought my measuring device spins. New battery ordered and it is installed today, in the hope to drag the box to the workshop with working servo and brake power amplifier, there then LiMa and charge controller as well as cable check new battery, built-in, previously measured: 12.5 volts. Connected, measured: 11.4 volts. Häh? Plus cable from the battery to the fuse box is well warm. Battery is disconnected, measured: 12.4volts, 10 minutes later 12.5 volts. How would you assess the situation? What would you think is the evil culprit? I would hate to get a new LiMa listed if the fault lies with the charging controller or in a defective cable. My practical knowledge of the KfZ electronics l I would be very pleased to have something under my hardly existing theoretical knowledge of general electronics, about easily understandable explanations and hints. Thank you, Mudgius