Hello After a liability damage, driven against my parking vehicle, I commissioned an expert to draw up an expert report. In the report a replacement value of 3800€ is given and the residual value of 1379€. Since an account should be made on an expert basis the invoice looks as follows: WWW – RW The payment amount is therefore 2421€ The insurance company informed me in the letter and specifies the replacement value with 3400€, i.e. 400€ difference. n personally to the insurance and see there, a typing error (who believes) But now it is in the letter of the insurance that the evaluator costs were taken over only partially. Asked about this and I was told that the HUK (the opposing insurance) will settle after the fee tableau 2012 or these costs are considered reasonable. The evaluator invoice amounts to 735€ The reperture costs amount to net 3174.43€ According to the table of HUK the invoice of the Gu tachters with 574,95€ appropriate. Difference: 160,04€ The insurance will not pay the expert, does this now come to me? Is the fee tableau of the Huk at all right? Damage amount is now actually what, the reperture costs net or the resuscitation value in a fictitious billing on an expert basis? Thank you very much……
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Screw securing
Servus, used 5 chrome-plated screws 7/16″ UNC for the assembly of my new chrome sprocket and secured them properly with blue Loctite. After I had screwed around quite a lot overall, it remained during a careful lap in front of the garage in 1 and shortly in 2nd aisle – until suddenly the rear wheel completely blocked. 3 meters brake track and a violent adrenaline release later I noticed that all 5 screws had loosened and one so far that they were on the swing ve If I had read the detailed description on the Loctite website in advance, I would have understood the problem with passive materials and surfaces (chromium, stainless steel) and got the corresponding catalyst by Loctite or used simple steel screws. After the adhesion is clearly best with the very simple steel screws, Loctite are now the creepy black things inside. Sure is safe. So remember – chrome screws are beautiful, but keep doing the simple things apparently better. best greeting TGV
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124 cui how and where to register
Hello I’m new here. I have a Heritage Softail Bj. 2004 where I had to install a kit that brings the machine to 124 cui with the condition to the screwdriver (one-man workshop) that the thing is registered. Now the guy from the workshop was today at the TÜV and did not get the thing registered, since apparently the exhaust values are not correct yet? Does he want to fuck me or what’s up? The problem with the thing is that I have already paid fas all! What should I do? ? Does he even get this registered? I’m sick of it because now is nice weather and I really wanted to drive! Who can register this, I’ve heard that this is going on in the new federal states without any problems? Thanks for your RÜckmeldung in advance! Greetings sends Hermann
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Has anyone ever been to the dent doctor? Or: How much will that cost?
I donkey: A few days ago I made acquaintance with a building garbage container. It was dark and on the discs was dew which I did not consider necessary to make away. On the reset on a curved driveway which is also C Förmig and by bushes bad visible it happened then. Result: thick bump at the rear fender (passenger side) and a long scratch that pulls over the tank cover up to the back light (the scratch is half as slim m). I tried to spat, but looked worse than the bump itself pictures will follow.
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Don’t get the gears in running engine
Hello, actually the title already says everything: Today I drive from the highway, want to switch to the 4th and notice that I can not get it in. First stop and push in with a little force…. But then came a “crat” from below. I immediately took the Gan out again. When the engine is off, the gears go in perfectly. Then I turned off the engine and put in the first gear. At the start the car went forward. Please don’t guess now that I the clutch should step 😉 Now my question: Is the clutch limp or can it be something else? Something with the clutch has to be… Greeting Lexenewax
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Loud mechanical lashing when starting
Hello, my Audi (see signature) recently gives, I mean since it’s so cold, but doesn’t want to determine if it’s because it’s because of a really loud mechanical clacking of itself at the cold start for the first approx. 1-2 sec in the morning. After this 1-2 sec. it’s still to be heard but still not so loud. As soon as the engine is warm you can’t hear it anymore, only if you let it run and stand directly in front of the bonnet. nn it was changed only a few days ago together with the timing belt everything. On this occasion I communicated to the workshop master that the engine slightly clacks, he meant after the oil change it should be gone… But it is not. It is worse than ever. A friend said these are the valves / hydro plugs. Can this be? And what should be done to remove this noise? And is it harmful to the engine ? thx
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My Audi 80 is gone *heulz*
Just my beloved Audi 80 t89 Bj.90 was picked up with the small 1.6 70hp PP I sold him now with 171tkm and got 950€ for him! The good one was always treacherous to me and also very economical with approx. 7.5L on 100km in normal driving mode and much in the city! Here are some last pictures of him:Picture1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 That was my first car which served me 3 years treu and in the time I have about 60tkm on it! I hope my “new” C4 a g Our replacement is But I think that 950€ are a good price for the t89… other Audi 80 go away for much less, but mine was also maintained except for the small front damage which I did not hide! Greeting Christian
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Change frost plugs on the engine block, but how????????
hello together. at my abk the frost plug is broken and I want to change it for the possibility of myself. the question is now how I do it instead. a stage I have, so is no probelm to get the car up. I think I will have two problems: 1.: if I want to change the plug from above the suction bridge, the curved ect off. 2.: if I want to do it from below is I think my air conditioning in the way. what do? then the frge like me the part a we get the engine block. is the glued or just pressed into it. and last but not least: how can I get the new plug back in? just hit it with a plastic hammer (be careful)? ask about questions, does anyone have an answer? or has anyone ever done it yourself????? MfG
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Transmission at the Kangoo
Hello all together, my 10 year old Kangoo has problems with the reverse gear, krangst ab u zu, the first two gears hook occasionally, if I let the clutch come and press again, let the gears settle easily. Does this necessarily have to lie on the gearbox? The workshop told me, a new gear is to cost 2000Euro, that is too much for me. I as a woman have not much idea, there are perhaps other possibilities that could lie on it. Have in the contributions h can you give me some advice so that things don’t get so expensive? Thanks zwilling 54
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ZV/Transponder/WfS: Myths and Legends
At this point I would like to clean up the incredible disinformation stands, which i.e. on above mentioned topics, because I have angered myself about the fairy tales, which a Renault dealer told my friend, when she confidently turned to him because of the non-functioning of the ZV of our Kangoo. 1. “ZV chip broken when the ZV no longer goes. Costs with transponder approx. 110€” Here the Renault expert meant, if the red lamp on the key does not glow when pressing the Konopfes, be the chip broken. To prove “changed” the battery, and nothing went. Sure, if one installs a void for evidence purposes. The fact is, the ZV does it even without Redlight, just very close to the Fzg.. Change battery, (0,26ct), pay attention to springing contact in the part of the key, where the battery is folded, and it’s all right. 2. “Fzg. does not start. WfS defective.” There are iron transponders, which are simply glued in the key, see like a 5mm long piece of nem S. and there are coil transponders with iron core, which are soldered on the chip and are also fed by the button battery. If the battery is empty, the Fzg. does not start any more, because the magnetic field of the coil can no longer interfere with that of the WfS (interference), so the WfS is switched. So: Don’t let a bear tie up, open the key and replace the batteries! 3. “Reading in keys” is the fact that the ride is broken! After changing the battery, the key, ZV and WfS will work again, because the keys delivered with the Fzg. can always correspond with this WfS. If you did not get the key numbers on an aluminium flag, write down the number a. d. chip, if you open the key. If you get this chip reordered, a fee is paid for. It is unnecessary to read a naxch key!!!! Great at Renault: the key beard is replaceable, and can be done with every key service. Cost: 3€! All other information is: naaa? In case of loss, no complete key with read-in has to be purchased! This “friendly Renault expert” with the good side earnings we will put on the pot properly on Monday!