Hello. Can you tell me if you like this offer? : so ne mito, 13500km, ez 07/99, “very good condition” … (once look at ..) Price should be 250€. Do you think that’s fair? or should I buy something bigger anyway (if 34hp)? Thanks in advance for the answers. Michi
Blog
-
Mokka 2015 – Cruise control with pitfalls
I drive an Opel Mokka BJ 2015. A cruise control is installed in the vehicle. However, it has a peculiarity which I do not know from any other Opel or car (had previously Nissan, Mercedes and several Landrover). It can only be activated from a speed of 40 km/h. This does not correspond to the information in the vehicle documents (30 km/h) nor is it useful in any form. Where are there in Germany 40 km/h speed limits?? Especially in the Flensburg points sensitive area around 30 km/h the activation would be recommended. On demand with the dealer, I have experienced this is only with the 2015 models so (obviously in Korea – before the production transfer to Spain) built mokka. A request to the manufacturer brought only the very brazenest information – info “Adjustments in the series can be accepted by the customer (if you have accepted as a customer in the small print!) and what in the vehicle book does not have to correspond to the actual parameters.”
-
Today almost pulled off by scooter!
today at the ampel not bad marveled as a sr 50 factory or something next to me has accelerated faster than I! at the next ampel we had then a stab which I could decide for me! that was scarce! What can I do so that I am faster but the green ones did not notice it so much (noise or eye-catching conversions best avoid) I had thought of a 17.5mm carburettor! in addition maybe another scratch and then I have to have another ASS? What would you do? so I have not been pulled off yet but the scooter has already scared me to take care of it I wanted to collect my opinions here so that I can react quickly in case of emergency achja habe ne SMT if it’s still not known
-
On XC/V70 drivers with mileage 180tkm and more
Moin Moin dear community, as already announced above, I would like to have the `experiences` of V/XC 70 drivers whose Fhrzg. have higher mileage – from 180tkm. Built from 2011. Background are the purchase of a used one and the question on my part what happened to the owners at the end of Rep. maybe. With the km performance in the short time the engine should still be very good. But what about the automatic? I know, no can clairvoyance but what is most likely to be broken / concealed at the mileage. Is the replacement better than repair. With the above numbers you can assume that was driven a lot of highway. Is that worse for the life of the GT? Everything else on the car like chassis etc. you can see when you check through (let it). It would be nice if one or the other here post his experiences, also Volvo-grabbers, who often have to do with it. Greetings from`m Norden
-
Error code P1815-0A
Hello, My Opel Vivaro hits the error code P1815-0A out meaning according to OBD scanner charging solenoid valve after hours of Google search I came to the result pressure converter or charge pressure control valve To the notice Opel Vivaro a Bj. 2005 1.9 DI box wagon now my question is how I can get this for the charging pressure control valve if no turbo is installed further the car is permanently in the emergency run (glow-spiral indicator light on ) the car has no power another error is the air mass meter which I have already ordered Am not so in the range engines in it therefore the question in the forum I send again a picture of the error codes The currently in the engine control unit are With friendly greetings
-
Problems with switching
Hello dear Duc community. I have found out a few problems with my 748R during a ride today. 1. When switching my clutch sometimes bangs really hard, so that you can take the blow even during the ride up into the clutch lever. Now my question, since I have recently installed another racing footrest system with normal circuit (other footrests as well as clutch and brake pedals) and I could only find this problem since then, I wonder now whether my clutch is no longer properly separated (air in the system) or the clutch pads and pulley have slipped in and their position has to be submerged times or if these problems could possibly be caused by a different pedal position. 2. Furthermore, I had to find that my Duc on a comfortable ride partly starts with a turning number of 4000 to 5000 U/min delicately shuffled at the same time. I didn’t have to adjust this problem again on a whole day before. I have to give up very emotional and even gas (even on gradients) they went through at o.g. Speed stopped as they did not get rid of the wheel. I didn’t get rid of this problem even before. I didn’t have to do this problem again on a whole.
-
“l 82”
Question: Did I call “L82” or not??? Have looked today. The writings are fortunately really fixed with a “bolt” in the moror hood (Hab heuete das Flies abgeschlagt), and not snapped afterwards. Unfortunately I can’t post a photo here that shows this strange plastic part above the cooler. First I thought it was mounted afterwards. When I looked at the bonnet cover, I noticed that it was specially cut out for it. (Boetti and Jürgen2 know which plastic part I mean. Would like to post it here if it was easy!) Funnyly, the redwashed front of the engine goes off (where else you would suspect the water pump at a German engine) and it appeared a blue protective varnish. (Ford I would almost say. I hope I’m wrong!”!!!!!!!!!!!)
-
Carousel and frame
since we’re doing my olds ne generalresto, I wanted to ask if someone can tell me tips and tricks if I want to lift the bodies from the frame. because really everything should be done on the car, I want to have the frame galvanized. what problems could occur ? what preparations should or must be taken ? get the “rubbers” that are between the bodies and frames without problems ? if yes, where do the costs of the dinger ? I am grateful for every tip. thx + lg current condition of the cart 😉
-
Tourer wanted, possibly FZ6…Questions
I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do.
-
Central locking R129 no longer responds
With my 1996 MOPF1 R129 the central lock no longer works after a trip at just under 40°. I suspect that the key is synchronized, I did it again in all cases, but the second key does not work either. Behavior: When trying to open the car by remote control the lamp flashes to the mirror and handle green, when closing it flashes red. Otherwise, however, nothing happens. The pump of the central lock also seems to be running, one hears an electric motor buzzing at any time and with each attempt to open or close the tone of the engine changes briefly. Can I have a pressure loss in the system, how can I find that, there are typical places? Independently, the SL was about 100° warm, from when did the fan have to run? From the red area it was still clearly removed.