Hello, for now, I have no idea of cars and have always had a leasing vehicle so not to tear up immediately. So following, I drive an old Opel Omega Caravan Built 82. TÜV and AU were made at the end of last year. Yesterday I then had the problem, I drove a little faster than usual, at once there was a blow, the engine nice to smoke and I turn right, engine off, first time bonnet on , has quite stunk but asks me not nac h what exactly, and steamed, parts of the engine were quite hot, although I was only 5 minutes away. Since my destination was not 5 minutes away by car anymore, I waited until it cooled down and stopped steaming, put me in, and I continued (but without a mobile phone it is quite uncomfortable on the highway in drizzle rain). !. bad signs in idle I have the feeling to sit on a tractor, that will only be minimally better w I put in a gear and give gas and will be really bad when I come in the 5th over 80Km/h. 2. bad sign to hear a slight loop during the ride 3. Very bad sign after finishing the ride and turning off the engine still about half a minute to a minute to hear a loop. I have now left the car at the finish place and move away by train, but can someone tell me what, that could be, and what costs there are about to be on me mmen können ? Sincerely Benjamin
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Z18XE in Saab 9-3
Hello Opel municipality! As a former Opel driver again beautiful memories come up when I see the names of the diligent writers here in the forum. My B-Vectra I have now “herited” my brother and he continues to do good services, and after a short trip to the Japanese brand Lexus I returned to the house GM, this time to the “teure” department Saab and got me a 9-3 with the 1.8i. Engine ID Z18XE. The same of the also in several Opel models He immediately made me have a lot of fun in the car, of the dimensions weight etc. is to settle the 9-3 in the Vectra segment. Many Saab drivers speak of a tired toad but to me he suffices and I am completely satisfied so far. Since I bought the car from a dealer about 350km away from my home and of course still used car guarantee is on it I wanted to know if there are typical diseases with the engine since I return to the direction at the end of the month The engine has now run 42000km and is year 2004 When I informed myself in advance the engine seemed to run quite smoothly. I therefore ask you for only a very small percentage of Saab driving around with this engine and even the Saab workshop stands quite perplexed in front of the engine. Be it also for maintenance timing belt change etc. best to my old, reliable O thanks in advance for your answers LG Mario
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Lose camshaft wheels?
Nabend Forum. I have now made my C20XE and want to take the head off. So I have now finished everything down timing belts V-belts away and valve cover is also down. so far so good. Now in the clever book (Opel Astra F self-help or so it is called) I should now take off the camshaft wheels by holding with a matching hexagon key to the wheel. But I don’t understand that because I thought this one hexagon screw fixation for the wheel i I hope you can help me get the two wheels down. LG and thank you so much
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Manta B 12V?24V? or only 4 cylinders?
I’ve been thinking about which engine I should pack in my 76 Manta B for years and days. I’d love a 6-piece but then I’m thinking about head load, performance, durability of the powertrain and the ease of maintenance (yes, actually you shouldn’t worry about this when you remodel it, but you don’t have to expand the engine for a spark plug change?! doesn’t have to be ) Here’s a small list of the engines I’m getting ready for. t has: 12V 3.0l + cheap to get + sounds better with weavers than the rest of the selection + more durable to drive on more engine capacity than the 24V (Imotec offers nice things) + cheaper to do when compared 24V – old engine ( tuning parts rare ) – power output 24V 3.0l + power + more potential when tuning + more revolving than the 12V – purchase more expensive – tuning parts very expensive 2.4er 8V + fits wonderfully + less weight + many tuning parts available – has everyone – just 4 cylinders – the 240hp I would like to have a little hard to reach I would like to hear your pros and cons on the topic.
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Decision-making aid 1er, A-Class or Mini Cooper
Hi, I am currently driving a BMW of 1 with which the leasing is about to expire. So far I am absolutely unsure which model it is to be followed. Here are my 3 candidates with the corresponding offers. The equipment is basically comparable with all 3 models. Offers are each without deposit.BMW 1er 118i (3-door) – Manual circuit – M-sports package – Automatic climate control – Navigation package Professionnel – LED headlights – HIFI sound system – PDC rear – Sonn enschutzverglasung343€/monthA-Class A180 – manual circuit – AMG-Line – business package – night package – seat heating – air conditioning automatic – LED high-performance headlights – Harman/kardon sound system – sun protection glazing – PEAK edition – ambient lighting332 €/month Mini Cooper – manual circuit – Cooper Works Chili – package Wired – Harman/kardon sound system – PDC rear – sun protection glazing35€/month I actually only need the car to go to work. ch about 17000-20000km. Which model would you advise me on? Are the offers okay or is there anything else?
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Suggestions for comfort up to 30,000 €
Hello people! I would like to look for some suggestions. Do you have suggestions for a car that costs … up to 30,000 €. Also younger used cars, … gasoline, … is as comfortable as possible. I would look for both suspension and noise comfort. Especially wind noise should be as low as possible, … still fits into a normal garage. Do you have any idea yet? Thank you, Carsten
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Mercedes SLK or BMW Z4
Hello I play with the idea to buy me a roadster and have stuck with a SLK or Z4 . Since I am not really an expert I want to ask you once . My budget is at a maximum of 20 000 Euro How does it look with the two candidates in terms of reliability and running costs . I actually like both of the looks . Maybe I also missed other brands and vehicles and you tell me I should definitely look at this or that . Definitely looking forward to any answer . See you then
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Combi limousine at 10T€
Hello, I need your help with my purchase decision for a new used car. Budget is about 10T€ +- air is there. Driving performance: 12-15Tkm if min 50km (service car without private use VW T6 is not available so no service rides) It is important that the car is not too narrow I am 1.90m tall and rower. I have already thought about which cars are suitable for me (can also be other brands except VW, “Seat”, Audi, Skoda. 1. Renaul t Laguna 3 From 2009 150hp or 178hp Diesel 2. Opel Insignia (seeming to be quite difficult) 3. Citroen C5 4. Toyota Avensis 5. Mazda 6 6. possibly Seat Exeo 1.8T (150hp) the TFSI are too vulnerable to me. In itself, no diesel is worth it, but many of these cars are felt to be 80% only as diesel. The car should have min. 150hp also likes to have more (preferably with turbo). Manual transmission or automatics does not matter. Air conditioning is a must. Navi and Xenon would be good. (no need) Best D ank in advance.
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Question to the used car dealers –> Warranty
Hello and good morning, I have a question for the used car dealers here. I am currently operating a tyre service as well as a car trade. The latter, however, so far only with new vehicles. However, as more and more requests for used vehicles come I think about an extension. My question to you: How do you minimize your risk which arises from the warranty? Additional sale of a warranty insurance? it only take over the part (possibly excess of the insurance) which is not covered by the GV? Or do I see this wrong and the GV does not jump in in in the warranty case? If yes, with which guarantee insurance did you have good experiences? Thank you already times and nice greetings.
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Heating, thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, temperature indicator, heating control valve
I have a Scorpio Ez 3/92, 2l DOHC 88KW/120 hp. The heating barely got warm and the hose from the thermostat to the cooler is not really hot. The coolant temperature indicator has been standing since I bought the car (at 178000 km – today 202000 km) always at the bottom of the white field of the indicator. Strange was and is that the temperature indicator even in the city traffic and in the traffic jam does not increase a little, but even further down to just below the white indicator field could also the coolant temperature sensor be defective? The heater only worked half-way if it wasn’t exactly cold. I changed the thermostat and installed one of ATU. My old thermostat had a vent valve, which was not from ATU. Was that a wrong one? I then let the engine warm up. It only came out of the ventilation nozzles for a short time. Otherwise only cold air. The hose to the cooler is now really hot. I often read about a heating control valve. Does the engine have one? I have no air conditioning. Where does it sit? Could the problem be this, or is it just the exchange of the heater cooler (heat exchanger)? Who can help and has had similar problem?