Hi I have the problem that I have a subwoofer that should be driven with 2x4Ohm!Here are the data: Technical data: Frequency range 21-1000 Hz Impedance Loadability 500 watts Diameter 38cm Peak load capacity 1000 watts RMS chrome Flame design Double-swing coil Chrome-plated pole plate Foam bead 4 layered walkers Fiber Membrane 500 watts RMS 21- 1000 Hz up to 6.2cm Hub AW1571T 15 SubWoofer 38cm Flame Woofer 2x 4Ohm 60Oz Magnet 93,4 My amplifier has this data: · Sinus power at 4Ohm: 4x 50WRMS + 1x 150WRMS · 2 ohms load stable (with even more power) · total 700 watts maximum power (4x100W + 1x300W) · Tri-mode capable · frequency response: 5 – 24000 Hz · distortion factor. 0.05% · Cinch- (230mV – 8V) and high-level input · adjustable low-pass, continuously adjustable from 400-200 Hz. · Subsonic filter at 30 Hz with 24 dB · adjustable high-passes, continuously adjustable from 40-200 Hz. · MOS-FET PWM switching power supply. · 24-carat gilded connections · PTC overheating protection · Size approx. 215 x 65 x 460mm fits that or what do I have to take into account? Do I have to give something or another amplifier? Here comes number 2: What should have more watts of the amplifier or the boxes? What is an impedance? (Have heard the word about Car Hifi) Hope You can help me!
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Damage to the threshold HU-relevant?
Hello! I would like to hear your assessment of whether an inspector at HU sees a deficiency in such a thing and perhaps even refuses the badge. Specifically, it is about damage on the threshold. See photos. In advance, thank you for your answers!
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My Omega is sick!
Oh oh, today was a black day for me and my Omega ! Actually everything started well, had an appointment today for the installation of my WEITEC suspension and for the assembly of my new rims, had also looked forward to all this rieisg, but then the fitter approached me, and said: Come have a look… 1. Cross handlebar bushings knocked out 2. Rust at the front traverse 3. Oil loss at the gear 4. Oil loss at the differential 5. Level regulation defective ( now clamped due to FW ) 6. Hand brake rope b damage 7. On the apron at the front, the paint on the decorative strips dissolves everywhere What I had already noticed is that the climate compressor site is not running, the vulture knows why. I will probably talk to my FOH on Wednesday when I give the car for inspection, because I am still in the warranty period. What is surprising, I have noted in the purchase contract a climate maintenance as pre-sale performance, but they did not make any ?? What the FOH says to the rest, kei n plan. Since I dared, I’ve been driving a kangaroo of 15000 KM, and so far I’ve been in the workshop 6 times to get something repaired, now it really pisses me off. What would you say to the FOH, how would you react, or even argue?? Give me some advice!
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Partially unround idle / cold start problem
Hello all, I’ve got a little city flicker that has a little problem with the idle since recently. It’s an Arosa, Bj 97, 1.0l with 50hp. I’ve got used to the fact that in idle with running air conditioning the idle is a bit “cruppy”. This should be normal given the engine capacity and the power. However, it has a little problem with the idle (whether on or off). Then it fluctuates between about 650 and 850U/min, 800u/min s ind normal. Sometimes after 2-3 amplitudes it has a stable idle, but sometimes it takes almost a minute until it has stabilized again. What can this be with the engine? And by the way: Does someone have the MKB of the engine for me? Thanks in advance
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Recommended acceptable performance increase 1.8 t in 6k2?
Hello everyone… I’m new here in the seat area of the forum, because it’s a second vehicle and I’m otherwise drifting around in the VW corner Have a question and hope someone can give me a helpful info…. I’ve been driving as a second car for a short time 6k2 as a cupra version with the 1.8t MKB: AQX (156ps) and 156 ps bj 2000 factory side. The following modifications were made to the car: k04 loaders, injection nozzles/air mass meters/gas pump/LK/N75 valve from the audio S3 (1.8t/224 ps), 3 inch stainless steel AGA, downpipe, 100 cells Rennkat, k&n Filter…. The car has now 211 ps, only a reasonable performance increase by chiptuning has not been made and should now follow, since many cars already in the standard condition without these whole hardware have to make changes to this performance… Now to my question: has possibly already done a similar conversion and can report from his experiences on how much ps/nm you can anticipate with these The vehicle now has 186,000 km down, a lot has been renewed and regular service with reasonable oil has been carried out, the engine is running perfectly and is already pressing tremendously … I thank you for your answers Downpipe,100 cell
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Buying advice Seat Ibiza 1,6l 105PS
Hi guys! Since I leave my Scirocco unfortunately due to a new condominium “must” *joy* I am looking for a cheap car (max. 12,000 €, ~100 ps, not old and not too many km) Since I almost inevitably passed by the Seat Ibiza. (Fabia I don’t like, Polo does not agree the price/performance ratio mMn not / Kia I don’t want any, Ford, Renault & Peugeot are not in question for me) I already realize that he does not forget with a 2.0l 200ps DSG Scirocco Ibiza 6J 1,6l You have to consider the price, I come from Austria and there we have a great NOVA… Can you buy such a careless one? Or should you rather take the ~90 PS versions? Are there extras that I will miss? Or child diseases that I would have to observe while watching/trialing? How “go” the 105PS? Drive mainly city traffic but also more and more often AB. Thanks for the first time!
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Change track bar at Seat Ibiza 6L
Hey guys. Need some good advice from you who are experienced with the Seat Ibiza 6L 2004. We were a friend criticized that if he steps on the brake from 80 kmH the whole steering wheel trembles. I drove with the car and he is definitely right. I picked up the car at the front and found that just in front left the wheel can move already with the hand as if the track rods head had been totally knocked out. After looking more closely, however, one saw clearly that it was not I’m a mechanic myself, however, in the commercial vehicle sector. And I want to change these track rods with him because I think that’s why the trembling comes. Would you confirm that? And what do I need to change tool to this track rod? Have already the Internet holes but I haven’t found such a 100% answer to my question yet. Some say it’s enough one key the others say br also a tool where it then also depends on the diameter. So I am now also a bit overburdened. However, if I have the parts and the car there I want to change the things and not send the car away again because the tool is missing. Can you surely understand. And that’s why I was thinking here how to do this best with the professionals. I hope someone can help me and say you need this and that and do it like this and like this and the S ache is done. I thank you already in advance. Greetings Sascha
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W123 300 D pushes strongly after start
Moin dear community, I woke up my Emil (W123 with OM 617) from hibernation this weekend. Of course he wintered in the garage with battery maintenance equipment for the battery. Tank is brimming full. He only jumped after the second start attempt and then ran terribly unevenly until he was out of the garage. Feeled not all cylinders ran. After that he ran in the standing gas after about 10 seconds round. I could not make longer trips (bold season marks…), wanted a Is this probably just the spark plug or a spark plug plug? Or can there be any “greater” threat? Perhaps an information about the car: W123 300 D, BJ 1980, km stand about 16,000 original. For hints (or only calming down 😉 ) I am grateful. Many greetings