Blog

  • ZZR 600D Bj90 Don’t jump on

    So to my problem Have a Kawasaki ZZR600 standing in my garage which has not been operating since last year. My landlord gave me this machine because he bought an R6. The problem is that the machine does not start. It is constantly on the org but it simply does not want to jump on. However, if I “put” petrol into the intake tract and the starter turns the machine up (6000U/min) – so again switched off because the engine is cold. I have fol gendes done on the machine: – The petrol line which leads to the carburettor checked–OK – vacuum line to the tank checked–OK – carburettor removed and these individually checked (carburettor needles & floats) are in order–OK – spark plugs replaced and when I’m already doing the ignition coils tested–OK – compression checked–OK . Oil changed–Check But I just can’t get the engine on. The starter turns and turns neither false ignition nor anything else happens : /. Today I pushed up and down the carburettor membrane from jux times and noticed that one (cylinder 2) does not build up “pressure”. So I removed and see a hole :/ But can it be that a membrane makes the machine do not make a mux? Has someone made the same experience and can help me =) I am technically gifted but I don’t want to take the engine apart now =)

  • Defects not disclosed/travel costs

    Hello dear subject purchase Mercedes B class from private to private in Austria. 1 hand with 201Tkm. Yesterday I was visiting a B class Mercedes on night. Asked the nice gentleman on the phone if the car lacked in response no super car,….since 2013 in possession always in the garage….the usual. My approach up to in took almost 2std in one direction 140km. Arrived and made around the car round and had already noticed that the older gentleman about 50years not so honest to m On request if he was accident-free he only meant a wild accident at the front left Xenon headlights and bumper that would be all! Now to the car big dent in the passenger door(no word of it on the phone),Delle passenger fender 5cm, li+re side wall painted with dust inclusions, underbody very rusty. On my fault of the optical things came from him time and again the answer it was a used car which is 10 years old. My Citroen C4 Picasso the 2009 bj with 262Tkm sach is better off from the body without rust approach. I told him he would have told me that with the rust on the phone I wouldn’t have started. He said about rust he didn’t know he only washed the car today and did not notice him. The rust does not come from today to tomorrow. Too bad about the lost time and travel costs. How do you see all this is so OK? Would I have been able to charge the travel costs (Sprit 50€) or unfortunately it was a disappointment at the end of the day.

  • ZX10 2006 valves crooked by hand?

    Hey guys, I’m just making myself a huge head.. and I don’t even know if it’s right. I set the valves on my ZX10 2006. Can do that without any problems and I know myself too. I reinstalled the camshafts on OT marking all great. Spanners in, then something with the hand turned the motor through, spanners out and it must have happened. Since I didn’t fix the chain with the hand it is while spanning (spanner moves out) and at the same time spin out skipped around several teeth. I didn’t notice this at first, so I turned the motor by hand and suddenly a resistance came where I didn’t get any further and I stopped directly, so I didn’t try to get over it with force. I knew directly what was wrong. I expanded everything again and now everything fits. My question however: I think the inlet valves touched the piston at the resistance. Now I am totally afraid that I bent the valves e. My mind tells me that you can’t push valves crooked only by turning your hand. And how did I say that when I didn’t get anywhere, I stopped right away. Do you think it’s possible to press the valves only by turning their hand crimped? Bzw. if you don’t even press them with force.

  • Car sales to Spain – is this man serious?

    Hello everyone, I have advertised my car on Mobile which is why a Spaniard wrote me on Whatsapp, he is interested in the car. At first I was very skeptical but then wrote a little bit with him back and forth. He meant the car is comparatively cheap and he probably wants to resell it in Africa. I know these scams with collection by third parties, alleged transfers via strange banks with deposits etc. But he doesn’t want to. I come from Wie n and he said recently he was still here himself. He wants to come here personally to pick up the car and pay cash. He also sent me photos of his cash, because I was skeptical because of course I can’t distinguish between real and false money. (That was very strange I have to confess). He asked me to have the money checked here in Vienna before by a bank or to deposit and then to do the paperwork. One thing you have to keep him good he is not very “pushy” . Don’t write to me all the time and when I first got rid of him, he took that and didn’t want to convince me of himself the whole time. I am a little in discord but if he really comes to me personally, gives me real cash confirmed by the bank and I give him then the car can’t go wrong after all? At least I don’t recognize any fraud so far. Look forward to your feedback or any tips I should pay attention to. te!

  • pickerl despite serious defects in car purchase

    Hey guys, bought me a car a week ago. The car has a new pickerl which is valid until September next year. The pickerl was made about 3 weeks ago so still quite fresh and there are 6 slight defects written down. After I bought the car I noticed a funny noise during the steering, then I had it picked up and discovered 7 serious defects that could not arise overnight like rust. What would be the best advance now? I hope someone can help me.

  • Car sales – question about this

    Hello we sold our car to a dealer and bought a used car there in return. We were relatively late – shortly before the end still there, so the car seller only issued us a binding order of a used car. No purchase confirmation of the old car or order confirmation for the new used car. He wanted to finish it and then send us by e-mail. Since we were late there, we thought nothing about it. Nothing came, we listened. He said that today we would get this, then we could transfer the difference amount and he tells us when collection of new used vehicle. But now again no order confirmation came today. We only run after the dealer and do not know what is going on. Also the removal of our used vehicle was made late only on demand on our part. It is a large dealer with several connected car dealerships. What can we do now? Do you have a tip? Thank you in advance.

  • Silver chips in engine oil – how bad is that?

    Hello dear people! I looked at the oil of my Mazda 323 yesterday and found small silver and black particles in the oil. I then screwed down the valve cover and it was totally soaked with pitch black grit, so several millimeters thick, I guess. Partially 5 millimeters thick and more. I think this is condensed oil. I touched it at a particularly thick place, and I had stone-hard little crumbs in my hand. Like hard coal the feeling has t. The area in which the connecting rods and the plumbing springs are were also black, but not so thick. On the inner wall of the cylinder head were also stone-hard black crumbs. I think that these small “coal stones” get into the oil cycle and are rubbed between the engine parts. And then small metal chips are sanded off. I think that’s why I found small black and silver particles in the engine oil. The engine oil was also quite dark brown, although I first saw it. My question: How bad is that? Is it enough if I continue driving the engine and keep changing the oil about every 3 weeks? I drive to the metro, where I can suck the oil free of charge. I pour half a litre of 50 % 15W40 and 50 % diesel in the engine and let the short chucker. Then I suck the oil off. Then I fill 3.3 liters 15W40 in the engine and leave the short tuckern Then I suck off the oil again and then I fill in 3 liters 5W40. And I drive with it again. Can the oil deposits in the engine oil dissolve in the course of time so sufficient that no silver metal splinters are rubbed out of the engine parts anymore? Should I remove the black grit from the valve cover? Should I also try to clean the area with the connecting rods and valve springs? Should I also remove the oil pan and the black grit, which is probably can’t you drive the engine for a long time? Or is it already too late? I bought a valve spy or a probe lesson and tried yesterday to control the hydros. Unfortunately, I didn’t know how to do it. In advance, thank you very much for your answers, Walter.

  • Repair fraud

    Hi, I have a problem with a workshop: I bought a scooter from Ebay 2 weeks ago (yes, I know that was a mistake and I won’t do it anymore). The scooter had some flaws, but it wasn’t that expensive. A mechanic who wanted to have my brake and some other things repaired, said that it wasn’t worth repairing something with this scooter, because the engine would soon give up. I already thought that I’d give it up right away. When I was at the workshop, I described my problem and explained the defects. It was decided that the engine should be checked first and nothing else should be repaired. This was also recorded in writing. Unfortunately, the order is in the workshop. After the examination of the engine, I should be called and I wanted to be informed of the result so that I could decide whether or not to go back to the workshop. The employee in the workshop said they would call on Tuesday, yesterday. But since yesterday I did not call the workshop today. The employee said that this and that had been repaired. I thought I had interrogated myself. Apparently the engine was not checked but just used spare parts worth 350€. Since that was not agreed, I am not prepared to pay even the least. Unfortunately now the car can be repaired. can I do something? The workshop has cheated on me. Of course, they could expand the parts again, but the previous condition will no longer be reached and so my right of return will expire… Hope someone can help me. I found something on the Internet about a similar problem:http://www.frag-einen-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an-an . P.S. Who cares: it’s a Suzuki Katana AY 50.

  • Car sales, buyer wants 300€ otherwise he goes to the lawyer

    Hello, everybody, I have the following concerns. I sold a car with a few bumps and scratches (listed in the purchase contract). The buyer saw everything in the advertisement and decided to use the car. If the price had been reduced by 500€, we didn’t care at the moment, because because of the damage we set it higher anyway. In any case he wanted to order the chassis number to paint and parts, because he has a well-known paintr. So he came by then, nic did “I’m going home 500km, so I’ll see if it’s running.” GOOD, okay. In the purchase contract stated “Different scratches and bumps.” Well, one week after the purchase, the call came. “Hello, the one bump is a kink, I didn’t know and I didn’t expect the costs. The estimate is 600€, it would be nice if you took half of it.” Uh, no? How am I supposed to know as a layman that this is a kink and not a Beu In any case, the following is added: We once changed the door, because it was very scratched and a new door was cheaper than the paintwork. During the visit he was informed (under show) about it. When we told him that we did not participate in the costs. Then came the following message: Ok, I was already with the lawyer today. I have very good chances. Think about this, otherwise it will be much more expensive than 300€. – We should think about this over the weekend. If we pay this or not, we’ll add: the purchase contract stated that the car was logged out within 3 days. According to the registration office, the car is not logged out. How would you behave? Should I go to my lawyer? Or should I sit back and wait for a letter from his lawyer? Thank you for any answer.

  • Car sales to a vehicle intermediary

    Hello together, I am about to sell my Golf 7 R at the moment and got a call from a father with his son on Friday. You would like my car and they would have a friend who owns a vehicle broker who would clarify everything for them and get the car. He called today and inquired about the car, offered me a deposit & the rest of the amount cash at pickup and would also get the car with red numbers. As far as everything was good (the colleague I could Now my question: Is there anything I have to pay attention to? With whom do I best conclude the contract and should I keep in the purchase contract that the buyer has switched on the vehicle brokerage? I would still notice that I sell the vehicle privately and also not be liable for the costs of the intermediary (you can never be sure enough).. Does anyone else have experiences with such a thing or tips? Thank you! Greeting Ersin