Hi you can upgrade the car here with an AHK, then 3 Quad’s to weigh the a 500kg? In clear text you can then, if you have bought a suitable trailer to pull the 3 Quad’s? Please don’t make any stupid remarks, I can’t search from https://mobile.de/…/256905979.html?action=parkItem
Blog
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Leasing with NEGATIV interest rates
Hello Motor-Talker, have you already seen the leasing offers from Smart? Now new: reading with negative interest rates! (In the advertisement in the “star”, which I saw yesterday, MINUS 6.99 % were shown). My question: isn’t this an eyewipe? The dealer told me that Smart wants to “push” the leasing. I think that’s very suspicious. But why don’t they want to push the financing? Isn’t it really just about the sales figures for new cars? And I also find verd I can play around with KM numbers and leasing runtime in the leasing machine on the smart website until I get even MINUS 24% (!!!) “leasing factor” (whatever that is supposed to mean). You think you have to strike immediately! Unfortunately, the dealer can’t tell me which confectioners I can take over the smart at the end of the runtime. I don’t want to fall into the scratch trap, where every little stone blow at the end of the runtime is expensively paid. How do I get the bank to tell me BEFORE what conditions I can take over the Smart after 24/36/48 months? What is a “leasing factor”. Is minus 24% “leasing factor” as great as it sounds or is it like a Chinese ghetto blaster: 500 watts, but zero sound!
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Safety box?
Hello you great Volvo drivers, it’s great when you drive a Volvo! Especially when you see a Volvo that is almost the same as mine. It was a diesel. You look and whack immensely. Here in Slovakia there are not so many Volvos. Most are Skoda and VW. Today I was a little tinkering or replaced old parts with new parts. For example, I changed all H4 pears. Thus, there is much more light for me as a driver. In Slovakia, you have to be And I don’t know how long the old ones have been inside. After their appearance for a very long time!!! Then, according to my book from Volvo, I searched for the fuse box. Two should be in the car, one with the steering and the other is in the engine compartment. The search started and found out that there is no one in the car with the steering (according to Volvo there should be one)!!! Funny! Is there no fuse box in the passenger compartment with the Volvo V40? Is the fuse box in the engine compartment, The only one? Nice evening and greeting from Torsten
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V40 for beginners
Hello everyone, I’ve had my Bf 17 driver’s license for 3 months now and I’m already looking for the first car which must be in my possession by the 18th. I’m not someone who kicks his car until it doesn’t run anymore, because I don’t want to spend a lot of money on new clutches, tyres, brakes,…. Now on the subject: I’ve been looking at the Volvo V40 for some time now and I’ve been looking at the Volvo V40. What you’re reading about this is almost positive (Solid Techni k, low consumption, comparatively cheaper maintenance,…). I’m talking about the diesel variant with 116hp. With a used one of this age, a diesel is worth it quite quickly compared to the petrol engines (or?). Now I would like to know if it is suitable for beginners (at least I usually drive a lemon with 109Ps FAP diesel)? 4000€ I have together and I think that you could get something useful for that. I also find the Audi A4 B5 interesting. More expensive to entertain and usually not as nicely equipped as a V40. What do you say? MfG Timo
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volvo v40 2.0t 2001 troublesome empty run, jerking under 2500 u/min
Hello!! Got a problem with my Volvo V40 2.0t (MJ.2001, 155,000km) For some time now my V40 has been jerking in the lower speed range.Motor lamp glowed sporadically The idling is very uneven (runs like on 3 cylinders) error I was already reading out.Ecm 25 power-offtrimmreglung lean in memory The Lambda probe was replaced at the front. Lambda lamp is out since then but idling is unround and FZG is jerking under 2500 rpm. Ignition plugs are new,Zündspulen are new, petrol pressure regulator is n eu, fuelilter is new,Craft pressure has been checked 2.4bar on the injection strip,Rossel flap is cleaned,empty flow control valve cleaned,air mass meter is new,fuel pump has been sieve cleaned, but Fzg still jerks??? Does anyone still have a tip for me??? Many greetings gajolin1
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Rear brake gets too hot/hot
Hello, I renewed the windows and blocks on the rear axle a few weeks ago. I drove without problems a few weeks ago. I noticed recently that the car on the mountain seems to lack a few hp. The brake on the rear left was very hot and stank burned. I looked at the handbrake rope that was stuck. So I changed the ropes on both sides and made the handbrake adjustment very loose for the time being. Nevertheless, the brakes on the rear were still warmer than that was the case in the past. On that I completely set the brake calipers back (pistons and bolts on both sides absolutely common!!) They are now no longer excessively hot, but still more than it used to be and above all much warmer than the front brakes. How can this be and what can you do about it? The last theory that comes to mind is that the brakes in the rear are very smooth and the front is not, which causes more braking power to be applied at the rear than in the back. Usually, which makes it warmer at the back. So just check the front pistons and bolts of the saddles for consistency?
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Crack while steering
Hello! My V40 seems to be an infinite story about defects Now that I thought everything was OK, the next thing comes: it cracks while driving – when driving as well as in the stand. If I want to park for example and stand it when hitting the steering wheel: “Knack… Knack…Knack.” (no matter which direction) And even when driving this noise is there. Two weeks ago, both springs were renewed in front, 3 months ago the drive shaft joints included discs and brake pads. Could there be again now???? Power steering??? Any bearings?? Greetings
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Question about frictional brake
Hello together, in advance…. the SuFu was used, but didn’t make me any smarter. I also got the phenomenon on my moose that it jerks and rubs when braking. As the first measure the crossbars were exchanged on both sides because they were over. Schwubs, old out and new in. The jerking actually became less. However, it is still clearly present in braking from high speeds. I now type that it is about the brake discs. One of the small countersunk head screws that hold the brake disc in position. I can’t detect any movement in the disc when the wheels are mounted, but very well when the wheel is dismantled. Is that normal? Can it be that the scratching comes from braking? I also have quite strange brake discs on it. They have a “ventilation groove”. Do you have that too or is it such a strange tuning part that no one needs? My previous owner had where Hl a little tuning spleen that I have been able to gradually rebuild so far. I also have the feeling that the tumbling occurs differently. Does anyone know what?
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Very nice driving report in audio.de
Hello together, maybe I’m bored one or the other of you with this “old” article from 2010. Then I’m sorry. I found the article very nice to read, even if it’s a little longer. Finally, the author writes about the Dynaudio system and about the Phaeton as a whole. Since I found the driving report about the SuFu only in a thread as a “complementary” hint, I thought that this article deserved a separate hint. Maybe still is happy. someone about this article? Greetings Andreashttp://www.audio.de/testbericht/volkswagen-phaeton-3-6-v6-1484257.html
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Error code not readable, ABS and motor lamp light, engine emergency run, heating is not possible
Moin, I’ve read many tips here and I hope the forum can help me. In short, the facts: Volvo V70 (I), 2.5l diesel (144hp), automatic, year 99. I have several problems that are probably connected somehow: On the one hand, when driving, the motor, ABS and brake lamp, tacho and DZM fail. Partially, the automatic arrow still flashes. This happens when the car is warm or it is warm outside. Leave a night and when it restarts, it’s all right. The assumption went to cold soldering points in the ABS control unit. Therefore control unit changed, nevertheless problem present. Readers (in free workshop AND at Volvo) connected, no one comes in to read or delete error code. In addition, my heating is without function. Control for the heating / air conditioning replaced, the same problem remains. I can turn on the fan with the slider, temperature control AND air flow flaps however I can not v If the car is driving, it feels like it is running in emergency run, i.e. the engine is driving, but does not have the full power (on the highway approx. 140max), switches late… All in all sea very annoying and unsatisfactory. Does anyone have an idea where I should look again / what should be tested? I can hardly drive with the car (no tacho, no heater, doesn’t pull so much..) Hope to find someone here who would have a hot tip!!! Bin aus Berlin, often also in the Hamburg/Lübeck area on the way THANK YOU IN THE PREPARATION!