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  • at once total damage after rejecting auto-online dealer?

    moin people, my mother had started Januar an unindebted accident with her passat. here an extract from the review: repair costs without VAT. 1400.21€ repurchase value 2600.00€ residual value with VAT 1760.00€ impairment none with the review came also a binding purchase offer from a dealer’s car-online with the 1760,-€ my mother rejected the offer because then she would no longer have a car. what also the insurance and the dealer was said. a few days ago came came dan a letter from the insurance with the following contents: “-total damage amount 840€ -expenditure amount 25€ -total amount 865€ according to this report a total damage occurred. the purchase value amounts to 260€. after deduction of the remaining value of 1760€ a vehicle damage of 840€ results. in advance we calculate on the basis of an economic total damage. after deduction of the remaining value in the amount of 1760€ from the acquisition value of 260€ an amount is calculated from 840€. according to A.2.10 of the general conditions for insurances the rep. costs can only be charged if the proof of a complete reperature has been provided. please provide us in this case a rep. invoice. the transfer of the above mentioned amount is initiated ” so, and last my question(s): in the report there is nevertheless something of 140€ without VAT, why does the insurance now only want to transfer 865€? or has to do with the fact that we do not pass the passat to the h ändler sell. can you please explain it to me so that I understand……. imagine I’d be six years old thank you for your help rod

  • Residual value of the expert or RW of the insurance??

    Hello all, I had an accident 4 weeks ago (no fault) According to report: WWW 1800,- RW 330,- repair costs almost 900,- net A week ago the offer of insurance came my car for 1500,- to sell. What I do not want under any circumstances. I refused and had it regulated on an expert report basis. Now came a letter in which was that only 300 euros were transferred to me. So WWW-RW the insurance instead of the expert. Is that permissible?? Thank you for your help PS: I read here sc hon for several hours and getting confused :S

  • Chassis wedge shape, what added value?

    Hello, my question has to do with motorsport only partly, but I think it’s best to pick it up here, because I didn’t want to subordinate it to a car brand. We are thinking of lowering our car, so that it can be driven more tightly on curvy country roads. The serial suspension is an impediment.The main aim would therefore not be the optics, but rather the driving behaviour with high residual comfort. The question we ask ourselves is whether a wedge-shaped lowering also driving technical advantage e hat? So far, I have only got spongy statements about this from my circle of friends, so I would like to ask here. If a wedge-shaped lowering only have optical advantages, we would then possibly do without it, because thus we would have a larger selection of feathers, such as Eibach 30/30 or H&R 30/30. Keilform would be the spring set of K.A.W 40/15. Lowered should be a Toyota Corolla, our family car Thanks for any suitable opinions already in advance,…

  • Driving behaviour with tunnels in the snow

    Moin together! The following situation occurred: Snowfall and not completely cleared road with speed limit 100 km/h which was anyway significantly undercut due to the weather – apart from a few cars – anyway. Entry into a tunnel (river underpass, length approx. 3 km) and therefore after approx. 30 meters no snow on the road. New limit 80 km/h. If one is now leaving the tunnel – probably – again snow lie. The stated 80 km/h are indeed regulations, Is there a rule how fast you can get out of the tunnel – maybe even step speed as there might be more snow on the other side? Or for safety reasons only 40 -50 km/h? What is a reasonable speed in this situation? To be honest, I am rather perplexed and ask for suggestions.

  • Hit-and-run – Ad though no damage?

    Hello, Something happened to me and I don’t know exactly how to handle it. I’d be happy if someone could give me some little tips or the situation had already happened. Scenario: I just drove along the completely snow-covered road with my golf. Through the piled up snow masses left and right, the road has almost mutated to the one-way street. From a left side street suddenly an opi with its old Clio slips out, takes the fore ahrt, don’t even look in my direction. I step out on the iron and soft into the snowfurt. He doesn’t come to the stand and buffs me at the back. After that he escapes with full throttle. I checked the damage… but you don’t see anything, although you have heard the contact clearly. What should I do? I have the license plate so halfway, besides, the road is only about 300 meters away from my house… I couldn’t turn around and drive after him because my car is stuck in the snowfurt I’m going to go to the police and report about an accident and a hit-and-run? Just a little stupid if nothing is really visible… but I didn’t really look at it now. What about the insurance? Am I going to be able to get an upgrade? Thank you very much, maybe someone can help.

  • Weak car battery

    hi I have a relatively weak car battery, the serial battery with 28 AH and the below mentioned components is installed. – that doesn’t go well for long is certainly out of question, but could I deal with the problem (flattering light, falling in-board voltage etc) provisionally (or delay) by using end stages with regulated power supplies? I don’t want the bat to give up her mind in 2 weeks, she is from 1999 and has had problems in winter without installation already the engine start, now eats of course even more critical. mfg

  • closed housing with pasteware dampen?

    because my bass box (27L) consists of 20mm coated chipboard I thought some braxpaste products or something similar to lubricate on the housing walls…(from the inside of course*g*) the chipboard is really densely pressed for a chipboard, so one nets the immediately crumbs when you process it… and it is just white coated. very hard layer. it is also sealed and glued with acrylic on all edges as well as doweled. stable box simple. and half-cooked stuffed with sonofil. you knock against the tinkling it also listens a bit “holy”, so it’s somehow not acoustically dead… nevertheless the bass seems a bit horny in some songs. not that the suspected comes up I’m not satisfied with the combi, with other songs he is completely awesome. have never heard an installation where you could put in music what you wanted and the bass was always perfect… can you say that from yours??? he is currently separated at 63hz with 24db flanke. I tried a lot about separation but the perfect bass isn’t yet… I also somehow feel like some pieces are really bad, how can I say, mixed, extra drone bass including so in this direction… hope you understand what I mean!? well, anyway, can I get something from brushing the walls? (by the way, yesterday from 7893R to 9835R I swirled and was really surprised because there was a rather big tonalichen clearly audible jump forward as I would not have suspected)

  • Proceed GT bad straight run with you too?

    Hello, I have noticed in the last weeks that my proven GT has a bad straight run. If I take my hands off the steering wheel, it always drifts left or right after about 2 seconds. In most cases to the right, because of the normal road gradient to the rain run. I drove a VW Sportsvan for comparison, which keeps its track perfectly. Then last week a brand new Toyota Corolla as a rental car in Ireland, which is also drifted left (left traffic) now my question, how does it look like with you? Is that normal, or should I go to my dealer. The Golf Sportsvan has only 195 R15 on it, which of course are not as susceptible to track grooves as our 225 R18. Greetings Jan

  • 323 F – A good used man?

    Hello, I would like to buy a sporty Japanese coupe in February or March of the next year. For max. 2000-3000 €. I had actually fixed a Civic coupe ej2. If not my cousin from Austria would have come to visit. He has a 88 HP 323 F and I have to say the car is cool. Unfortunately, the 323 c is all the more ugly (my opinion) that I have to take a 5 doorr if I choose a 323 f. My questions are: How robust is the car(rust, processing) g)? What mileage is to be trusted with the engines? How cheap are they in maintenance (insurance of dad 30% )? Which engine is receptive? Are there specific diseases? I am grateful for any help MfG

  • CL-500 Mercedes Coupe 2 questions…

    Hello together. I bought a CL-500 2 weeks ago black / black nappa very nice, was also relatively cheap. The only option which this lacks (there were 12/99 not yet) is the Distronic, since someone has experience whether you can install it afterwards at all, re-authenticate or this would only be associated with astronomical costs. Question 2 would like to buy the CL rims on spring someone has suitable rims (which width you have to buy and which tyres are allowed) 19 or 20″ think ic h should it be or or does someone know a great web address or suppliers where to get such MAE, Brabus and Carlsson, Lorinser are a term to me there are other cheaper or more meaningful ones? Thank you for your feedback. Gruss johnny