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For some time now I have noticed less and less charging pressure / power. I have just three quarters rash (0.75 bar) with the Stage1 control unit, with the original control unit I get only half rash (that would be about 0.5 bar). I also need a lot more fuel. I don’t come under 11 l. Also not with gentle driving and 120 km/h highway. Previously 9l standard (soft) and 8l was possible and less than 10l normal. The following was done: – LMM is new (Bosch), – CBV (Diaphragma) was leaking half a year ago – TCV was replaced with IPD (has curved), back to old original part – vacuum hoses new – charging air hoses new Can the Wastegate be tested in built-in condition, how can I check the TCV? Do you have all original Wastegate and TCV (solenoid) in it? Or am completely in the wrong place looking and my cat is clogged, or the loader is after less than 400’000 km by. Gruss Roland

Yesterday the tires changed. From 16 inches to 15 inches winter tires. On stage. Oil change and brake fluid change were also added. Car stands on the ground again and now it cracks when I hit the steering wheel by approx. 45 to 90 degrees to the left or right. But also not always. And if, then only at the stand! The steering gear is not 5000 km old and dense, cross handlebars and track rod heads exactly as old. On summer tires I also have nothing It doesn’t matter if the servo is running or not. Why this just occurred with the change of the tires is a mystery to me. The cross joint in the engine compartment is a sprayed, so not dry. I had taken the two rims at the front today again, not to notice any abnormalities. Maybe one of you had such a case or a case. a similar case.

Moin, After having for some time the phenomenon that my turn signal (mostly, but not always) continues to flash when I have pulled off the ignition key, or, I can turn on the turn signal, when the key is pulled off, I now have another ‘unusual’. A few days ago the battery was empty, car was standing on the road. Deepest charging. No idea why. Battery charged, reinstalled. Next day a neighbor came and said that on my Volvo the light is burning. It b The key was not in the ignition lock. When I had finished the car the last time, no light was burning. So the battery had been empty. In detail: If this phenomenon occurs, then I can turn on the light, turn on the flasher, and turn on the heatable rear window/mirror heating. In addition (mostly) the belt warning light starts to flash after a while, when the light is switched off. This is particularly funny, as this lamp is usually not touching (i.e. ignition) whether I’m sitting on the seat or not. This can only be prevented by putting the belt in the lock when I leave the car. What’s not possible: instrument lighting when the light is off, ventilation fan, window lifter. In short, everything that belongs to ignition level I doesn’t seem to work, and it works. Everything that belongs to Ignition Level II. As I said, when the key is removed. And not always, but mostly. If the key is in the ignition lock, then everything works. Except for the belt warning light for the driver’s seat. The phenomenon doesn’t always occur. Most of the time, however, it starts after a while after I have pulled the key. So I can go shopping for a short time, it’s all over when I leave the car, and when I come back, the full outside light and the Gur burns. twarnleuchte rattert. Can anyone make a rhyme on it? Ignition lock? Contact plate ? …???? I am grateful for every hint.