Moin, as briefly described herehttps://www.motor-talk.de/…/…at-or-was-others-t5075597.html?… I have ruined the cooling water connection of the DSG oil cooler at Passat B7 due to stupidity. They are unround and I prefer to buy a new one. Soo exactly I get the only with patience round again or not at all. “Previously” I have fixed/- sticky cooling water hoses (here diameter approx. 2cm, sit almost 8 years firmly) either round-side running down with a screwdriver If or when it was possible, a screwdriver carefully extended something. Both did not work here, so, like “formerly” also , I carefully tried to rotate the hose at the circumference on the stun. In doing so, the stun moved at really only medium scraping effort itself and I left it immediately . Only at this time I had pressed the stun in diameter already slightly oval and at overpressure one to five thin coolant jets out 🙁 With solc I didn’t count for the trumpet sheet: So there used to be no such thing!!! 🙂 How do you correctly remove such hoses from the sockets nowadays?
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Conversion from “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 H7-LED” to “Ultinon Pro6000 Boost H7-LED”
My Mercedes-Benz Vito Tourer W447 from 07.2019 came to me with H7 light. In 2021 I had converted to “OSRAM Night Breaker LED-H7” which according to the manufacturer should bring 220% more light (compared to the minimum standard). The upgrade was an improvement, although not completely satisfactory. But OSRAM was at the time the only legal provider for my vehicle. In 2022 the “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 H7 LED”, which is supposed to bring 230% more light, was released for my vehicle. In the meantime, the “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 Boost H7-LED” was also released for my vehicle. This boost variant is supposed to bring 300% more light. Now I wonder if a further upgrade would bring something. Does anyone have any experience in this regard, i.e. has someone from the first-generation Ultinon converted to the Ultinon in the boost variant?
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Ford Mondeo or Citroen C5 – Gasoline Searched
Hello together I am actually looking for an Opel Omega B2, with the 3.0 or better of the 3.2 machine. I unfortunately missed an unbeatable offer, or could not buy a very well-kept Omega for many reasons at a reasonable price. Unfortunately it is very difficult here in Switzerland to find a well-kept Omega, yes almost impossible, and I have been looking since September. Now I have looked around for a few alternatives and following two Exempla re discovered: Citroen C5 3.0 V6 Combi as automatic / 2002 year of manufacture, 135,000 km, private, 20.01.2011 MFK (TÜV). price 2400.- CHF Ford Mondeo 2.5 V6 Combi, switch / 10.2001 year of manufacture, 129,000 km, made at 128,000 km service, with leather Navi, Xenon etc. MFK 16.11.2011, so still by the end of this year Gutha habe. price however 3500.- CHF My budget is quite limited in terms of purchase, the price of the Citroen tells me more. Which is the more reliable and better suitable for purchase? What are the strengths and weaknesses? Is the 2.5 liter machine at the Mondeo as vulnerable as the ST220 up to the facelift, which is constantly bad with engine damage? Do you have a link to a large travel limousine? The primary reason for this is that I can drive 2000 km in the summer, therefore only a 6 cylinder from 170 hp is possible, besides only petrol, no diesel! I hope for many cars. pps. Thanks and greetings
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A3? A4? A5???? Or a seven gulf GTI? —
Hello dear community I will soon…(so rather this morning) get a new car! But I’m having a hard time making the purchase decision than ever before! After all, I’ve decided on one point….it’s supposed to be an Audi or VW! What would you do???? Buy the brand new Golf GTI or Audi A3? Or rather a 1-3 year old Audi A4 or even an A5??? How do you like the Audi A4 as a limo?????? Eher Opa-Image or still quite nice to watch? I don’t decide if the A4 does not come to “slight” for me…. Strangely enough, you get the A4 as an annual car sometimes quite cheaply! Nen quattro A4 with 211 hp built in 2012 for a good 22000-24000 Euro I find nevertheless very cheap for an Audi! And such offers can not be found alone in the net often! What is the case with nem A5 zb nich So the case is And over 30,000 Euronen I don’t want to want to scroll down then… Hachja nich simply…but maybe I can h ier yes who give the all decided tip????
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Financing ended, car sold yet?
Hello forum, I have replaced the loan for my current vehicle prematurely last month. However, because of the notice period I still have to wait until the end of May until I get the letter from the bank. i.e. I transfer three installments again “normal” (March, April, May), and then end of May the whole rest. The following problem/the following question I have: On my current car (Honda Accord Tourer 2005) the brakes, the timing belts and a few other small repairs must be prepared I actually wanted to postpone this and put the car in payment or for a good used exchange. But if I get the letter in almost 2 months it will be almost too difficult for me to drive around like this. Is there the possibility to exchange the letter of the new vehicle at the bank for the old one? So that the almost two months still have the new letter as security? I don’t want to have more than 1000,- Euro in the Au I don’t want to be too “obtrusive” at a bank. The financing is running through the BMW bank. Maybe someone knows what is “growth”. Thank you very much, T. (YetAnotherUser)
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QJ engine SRK 125s release carburetor
Good morning community, my son owns the SRK 125s since this week. He is 15 and gets his driver’s license only in September. Due to the fact that the dealer prices have increased here on site, I was able to negotiate the list price and have struck. Now the small motorcycle stands unfit until September for 5 months in the garage. I have already occupied myself with the topic resin in the carburettor and have decided the gasoline over the carburettor exhaust screw e. The opinions on the topic run in both directions – Drain Yes/No! I prefer to let off the petrol and go safely. The bike has no petrol tap, I could squeeze the petrol hose off the tank and let the engine run until the carburettor is empty – I don’t like this option because the engine had too many cold starts in the workshop and introduction at the handover. – Now to the question: Where is the screw on the carburettor to release gasoline? – If I take the The carburetor is installed in the middle of the motorcycle. I would have to completely dismantle the lining to be able to remove it. I don’t want to. It must give the possibility to get to the screw quite easily – but I don’t see any screw. Thanks for your support MfG benny.ka
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Zündapp 125ér does not start (injection valve)?.
Hello, our Zündapp 125 ABS (Bj.2021) went out immediately in driving mode and no longer wants to start. Ignition spark is there, fuses are also intact. Since after various start attempts the spark plug remains dry, but the pump from fuel transports out of the tank, my guess is on a defective on the injection valve. Can someone tell me how to check the injection valve? (Expand and try to clean?) The resistance (injection valve) measured by me b ebears ~11,8 Ohm? The plug that is plugged on the injection valve has a voltage of approx. 0.5Volt. Greeting
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15A Ignition fuse flies out after driving on city highway with complete failure of the machine
Moin, I drive a China Moped 125cc “FKM 125SF 2019″The car is now from 2019 and is supposed to have been driven by the previous owner “only 250km, I have already discovered several wear lanes that prove the opposite… Well now the car made 3 times problems 1.Tacho Kaputt Karre doesn’t want to start just start 2. Tacho after 800Km again black(short circuit 15A ignition protection flew out) 3. after almost 60km on the city highway at 5 o’clock tomorrow the car goes exactly the same as before, one notice t power loss and from one second to the other everything is black… nothing works anymore, now I get escorted by the police and look at them cart after work and see the fuse is outside making a new one in and it jumps out directly… Could help me what that could be before I hit my whole training mountain hut in the car (the battery is completely new and the speedometer was also completely new. Thanks already in advance Mfg Ben
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Barton Sprint 50 – Beginner’s question and loose hose
Hello, I have my first moped a Barton Sprint 50 and real beginner questions. Can you tell me exactly what can be seen in the pictures? I have given some numbers: And then I noticed a tube that hangs loosely in the “space”. But it is a clamp on it. But find nothing on which the one could have been attached. Does anyone have an idea? For a short time the performance has broken in. Maybe this is related to the hose? I quote myself from another n Beitrag: Quotation: The moped probably too, because that didn’t want to do it today. As if it didn’t take gas at all. Even on the straight road did not go faster than 35 km/h. Then was the end… at full speed. On a small climb I even stopped. Then I had to drive in the first gear and push with it, otherwise nothing would have happened. As I said, I am a beginner and have no idea. The next workshop I could go to is 50km away. Thank you 😉
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The heating in the cooling water thermostat Who knows more?
In the Opel Astra j 1.4 directly in the cooling water thermostat is a heating directly in the opening element. It was explained to me so if then gives up the thermostat so that the warmer cooling water in the interior would mix with the cooling water in the cooler and thus the engine should burn even colder. That would also save fuel. I now have some doubts about this explanation. To one mad time discrepancy until the cooling water actually changes its time, this the The cooling water temperature is adjusted, then it would take again until the cooling water in the small circuit is warmer again and if it is ready to drive again. If it runs stupidly I would drive with it always in an unfavourable temperature range. In addition, the combustion temperature of air temperature, fuel temperature and Lamb Since determined, everything else yes yes less influence, I think even if on average the metal of the engine plus minus a few degrees has no influence at all on the combustion temperature and consumption values. And let’s assume that I have a performance zenairo like with hangers up the mountain and I am anyway above the temperature value makes no sense this solution at all. In my whole circle of acquaintances I only harvest headshake. Is this a purely Opel specific construct or have such a This reads like marketing speech, how in the TV sales channel this one tool replaces an entire tool box. But it doesn’t make any sense in reality, If I would calculate this or simulate it I would be sure I wouldn’t have a chance to work here Is there anyone here who knows more about this?