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  • Error code P1815-0A

    Hello, My Opel Vivaro hits the error code P1815-0A out meaning according to OBD scanner charging solenoid valve after hours of Google search I came to the result pressure converter or charge pressure control valve To the notice Opel Vivaro a Bj. 2005 1.9 DI box wagon now my question is how I can get this for the charging pressure control valve if no turbo is installed further the car is permanently in the emergency run (glow-spiral indicator light on ) the car has no power another error is the air mass meter which I have already ordered Am not so in the range engines in it therefore the question in the forum I send again a picture of the error codes The currently in the engine control unit are With friendly greetings

  • Problems with switching

    Hello dear Duc community. I have found out a few problems with my 748R during a ride today. 1. When switching my clutch sometimes bangs really hard, so that you can take the blow even during the ride up into the clutch lever. Now my question, since I have recently installed another racing footrest system with normal circuit (other footrests as well as clutch and brake pedals) and I could only find this problem since then, I wonder now whether my clutch is no longer properly separated (air in the system) or the clutch pads and pulley have slipped in and their position has to be submerged times or if these problems could possibly be caused by a different pedal position. 2. Furthermore, I had to find that my Duc on a comfortable ride partly starts with a turning number of 4000 to 5000 U/min delicately shuffled at the same time. I didn’t have to adjust this problem again on a whole day before. I have to give up very emotional and even gas (even on gradients) they went through at o.g. Speed stopped as they did not get rid of the wheel. I didn’t get rid of this problem even before. I didn’t have to do this problem again on a whole.

  • “l 82”

    Question: Did I call “L82” or not??? Have looked today. The writings are fortunately really fixed with a “bolt” in the moror hood (Hab heuete das Flies abgeschlagt), and not snapped afterwards. Unfortunately I can’t post a photo here that shows this strange plastic part above the cooler. First I thought it was mounted afterwards. When I looked at the bonnet cover, I noticed that it was specially cut out for it. (Boetti and Jürgen2 know which plastic part I mean. Would like to post it here if it was easy!) Funnyly, the redwashed front of the engine goes off (where else you would suspect the water pump at a German engine) and it appeared a blue protective varnish. (Ford I would almost say. I hope I’m wrong!”!!!!!!!!!!!)

  • Carousel and frame

    since we’re doing my olds ne generalresto, I wanted to ask if someone can tell me tips and tricks if I want to lift the bodies from the frame. because really everything should be done on the car, I want to have the frame galvanized. what problems could occur ? what preparations should or must be taken ? get the “rubbers” that are between the bodies and frames without problems ? if yes, where do the costs of the dinger ? I am grateful for every tip. thx + lg current condition of the cart 😉

  • Tourer wanted, possibly FZ6…Questions

    I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do, I’ve got a lot of fun to do.

  • Central locking R129 no longer responds

    With my 1996 MOPF1 R129 the central lock no longer works after a trip at just under 40°. I suspect that the key is synchronized, I did it again in all cases, but the second key does not work either. Behavior: When trying to open the car by remote control the lamp flashes to the mirror and handle green, when closing it flashes red. Otherwise, however, nothing happens. The pump of the central lock also seems to be running, one hears an electric motor buzzing at any time and with each attempt to open or close the tone of the engine changes briefly. Can I have a pressure loss in the system, how can I find that, there are typical places? Independently, the SL was about 100° warm, from when did the fan have to run? From the red area it was still clearly removed.

  • Brake discs, etc….

    So….because my front brake discs are slowly, but surely, an ever deeper edge, I have already made up my mind today, which should be next. I have no idea what is currently installed. The moose is only at the end of this month 1 year with me. I have decided for the following set: http://www.ebay.de/itm/400853008859?… Maybe I buy this together but also individually and take the Powerdisc for the front. The big question is, however, whether I need new/larger saddles, if there are any ones at all? At the front right, you have to switch anyway. I go out of a built-in 15″ brake system, since my FZ 15″ wheel is the only one.

  • Camshaft adjuster of camshaft dissolved without locking

    Moin together, I wanted to change my Volvo V 40 Bj 2000 engine 1.8 petrol sucker the timing belt, Wapu, tensioner, ULR… and the camshaft sealing ring (inlet, front side). I forgot to lock the camshaft in the icy of the battle. Doof, I know. . So I released the bolt from the inlet gear with the impact wrench. Except for the bolts nothing moved. Now I do not know if the camshaft did not stretch a piece. It did not feel moved. Nevertheless, my question is now whether I can see, for example, on the camshaft sensor wheel as the OT position of the camshaft is. I have not found any markings for the shaft. Ot position for the gear wheel is clear, but since it is an adjustable gear, this is not fixed on the shaft. I am grateful for every tip.

  • Refurbishment of seat heating ?

    Hello, this topic has been discussed many times lately, but no one could say more precisely about it… My V40 1.8 special edition has a full leather equipment, but (unfortunately) without seat heating – which I would like to retrofit now with ORIGINAL PARTS. Upon request with Volvo directly, this would be possible if the car is “pre-wired”. Otherwise this wiring would have to be done. The first dealer was of the opinion that my V40 was not wired, but the second confirmed that the wiring was available. According to the second dealer, then only 2 switches, 1 relay and 2 heating elements would be installed. …What does this look like with wiring? Is it done with the simple installation of the switches and plugs? And how is this with the famous seam in the middle of the seat, must be locked off the seat for the original heating cushions? What does this look like afterwards? Would the experts among you really super grateful for a quick answer!