Dear community, please look at the picture, unfortunately I got a high curb this morning, so that a good centimeter of rubber is missing sideways (about 1 good mm deep, almost directly at the rim). It is about 18 ́225. After 12 hours now no air seems to have escaped. Would you just drive on, or buy a new one immediately? Unfortunately he was not yet old… Thanks for the help!
Blog
-
Winter tyre test season 2012/13
The car magazine published the first winter tire test of the season on page 88 in its issue 20/12 of 12.09.2012. Tested on a Ford Focus 1.6 EcoBoost (150 hp) eight tyres of the size 205/55 R16 H. Here are the order with points in succession snow, wet and dry (max. 150 points) 1. Conti WinterContact TS 850 134 – 129 – 125 = 388 2. Nokian WR D3 141 – 114 – 115 = 370 3. Goodyear UltraGrip 8 128 – 123 – 110 = 361 4. Dunlop Winter Sport 4D 129 -117 – 114 = 360 5. Michelin Alpin A4 122 -115 – 115 = 352 6. Pirelli Snocontrol Serie 3 118 – 122 – 108 = 348 7. Vredestein Snowtrac 3 120 – 113 – 109 = 342 8. Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32 105 – 111 – 107 = 323 All inclusive with the exception – once again from Bridgestone – good performances.
-
B4 TDI (too) low performance
Hello, my 80s is actually not really great since I did it, but I always thought it might not be better. But now I drove the one from a colleague (even unchiped) and must say that this one is better about worlds. So I did some troubleshooting. First I wanted to read out the engine control unit which did not work for inexplicable reasons, with the ABS control unit worked. Then I measured the charging pressure once. The result was mic h very surprised, when accelerating from approx. 2000 rpm the charging pressure goes short to 0.8 bar and then sinks immediately to 0.5 bar. If I accelerate from 1500 rpm then it does not rise at all higher than 0.5 bar. I then checked the Turbo, the AGR valve and the Wastegate and all this works perfectly. Then I put the hose off the Wastegate and thus the charging pressure also increased to 1 bar, but without which the performance has improved noticeably. he who wants, in my opinion the power would have to increase by a lot if the charging pressure rises from 0.5 to 1 bar. Or is there perhaps something else in the bucket? The engine control lamp burns in any case not therefore I do not think that it goes because of a defective charging pressure generator in emergency run. I hope one can help me here.
-
Remodeling to 10V Turbo needs decision-shifte!!!!!
Hello everyone! I hope you can help me first time I drive an Audi 90 2,3E Bj:88 Type:89 with 136PS front-driver Now I had to build it on 2,3 20V in order to build it because I killed the Audi from my oma because of rear damage but because I have to convert the BKV from underpressure to hydraulically and the rise is probably much bigger than on 2,3 10V Turbo is I have decided to sell the 20V and buy the 10V Turbo!? 1. Which engine is much bigger than on 2,3 10V Turbo? 10V Turbo with 165hp or the 10V Turbo MKB:GV with 180hp 2.Is it really more unnecessary to convert to 10V Turbo than to 20V 3.Since I couldn’t find anything very easy to do you could vill. make me a list what I have to consider when converting to 10V Turbo with brake*brake power amplifier*, transmission, gas train, clutch cable and keep all the other things!? I am really grateful to you for every hint!!!! MFG: Chris
-
My first quad and many questions!
Hello everyone! I will be 17 years old (young) in 2 days and would like to make a quad driver’s license now. Actually I could also make a car driver’s license, but it is currently too expensive for me as a student. This is then my first, own vehicle. As you can probably imagine I have 0 idea of the technical data, etc. of a vehicle, since it has never interested me until now and never needed it. I have already read some threads here, but I would like to please let experts advise you extra 😉 Please don’t laugh at my following questions, because I’m really just a layman. ( But actually I don’t care, laugh calmly ;-D ) Would be nice if you could explain some things to me. One thing is clear to me: I can only drive 50ccm quads, but that’s enough for the time being! 1. Is there a big difference between 2 and 4 bar quads? And what is the bar actually? 2. My father thinks I need one with differentials, is that really so wi Is that possible at all? 4. What do the cylinders matter? I mean, what is the difference between 1 or 2 cylinders? Since the driver’s license is limited to 50ccm quads, I want at least a powerful part, which plays in the upper 50ccm class! Can I recommend something or what do I have to pay attention to in order not to get a “lahms part”? Could you possibly also give me a few mars? ken recommend, since I have heard that the China Quads are absolute? Thanks already for your answers, mfg
-
Difference between 135R13 and 145/80R13 ?
Hello people, and I have the possibility to get very cheaply to a set Uniroyal mature. Vehicle: Suzuki Swift 1.0i MA EZ: 14.01.1997 The matures which are mounted at the time are too old (<8 years). In the vehicle letter the size 135R13 is indicated, so should actually also 145/80R13 fit or ? Mounted are at the time 155/70R13. Who can bring light to confusion ?
-
GRIP editors are looking for S-Class or 7-Searching
Hello to all S-Class friends… …and especially to those who want to become some. The GRIP editorial team is looking for a potential BMW 7 or Mercedes Benz S-Class buyer. If you are looking for a 7 or S-Class for 2500 € to 4000 €, then contact us. Our editorial team is looking for suitable used cars, has them examined and puts together a selection. You only need to select and purchase your dream car. on is accompanied by the camera and used for a contribution in the Focus TV production GRIP. If you have serious interest in buying a car of this kind and also have the necessary financial resources, then contact us. We look forward to receiving your mail.
-
Madza 626 Station Wagon 1.9 BJ98
Hello and good tomorrow to all. Hope you can help me a little bit. My neighbor wants to bring his car over the Tüv only it lights up the TSC and ABS lights permant. Have already tried as described here in the forum to read out the error code with the bridge, but the ABS light flashes no piece lights up permant. My question, is there a security that is perhaps through because no reaction comes or can it be that it is on the control unit? At Madza he was not yet Since the reading device is defective from them and should not be repaired before next week…… so hope you can help me a little bit.
-
Dry engine, where’d all the oil go?
Hey guys, my engine needs a lot of oil. That’s in the order of 2-4L/1000km. I had a engine wash done to see if it pushes the oil out somewhere. But the engine is still completely dry after about 10tkm from the outside. Where can the whole oil go? Smoked clouds it does not push off and I watch for proper warm-up. The second problem is with the gas. When I start it in the morning, it really goes into the basement with the gas. Sometimes it also goes out again. andgas runs uneasy (permanent self-contained up and down) and at waiting times at a traffic light or so the engine wobbles at about 850-1000 u/min to such an extent that it shakes the whole car (is now for about 5 days). If I slowly give gas in driving, it slows down for about 5-10sec, as if I were standing on the brake or it no longer gets fuel. The same happens if I just walk off the gas and want to use the engine brake. One might think that I would be standing on the brake, are the signs of an engine EX? I drive an Audi 80/B3 Built 1988, 1.8S, 90 HP I am very grateful for any help I can get.