Hello people, so it’s about a shuma2 bj01 with a 1.6l 101hp. Problem motor control light is eternal. at the first reading were the errors kat and lambdasonde. a lambda probe was changed and checked kat. error came relatively quickly again, this time error mixing bench1 and knock sensor. had the car at the gutachter which has disassembled half the car and he found nix also several times half the engine space disassembled and finds also nix. the car also consumes quite a lot of oil and the consumption with 11L is in my opinion also quite violent. have already made the previous owner of the plug out and he said that he had the problem once after refueling with the cschechen. after the info was again ANGELlich the fuel supply checked but also without solution?
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MyPeugeot App (iOS): No Bluetooth connection to vehicle – no e-Remote Control activation
Hello together, I picked up my 3008 Hybrid4 from the dealer on Saturday, was a demonstration car. Since then I have tried to pair the MyPeugeot app with the vehicle, especially in order to be able to use the e-remote control function. The activation for the latter fails at the last step, i.e. the comparison with the vehicle key. I suppose that is because the app itself cannot establish a Bluetooth connection to the vehicle. I see no data at all (kilometre level etc.) of the car, which would probably have to be the case otherwise. The vehicle had its first registration in January 2020, my iOS version is 13.6.1 (iPhone Xs). The iPhone itself is of course connected to the car via Bluetooth, which I see in the display. I also took into account the indication that the app should be in the foreground when you start the engine…but nothing does. Does anyone have an idea? Can it be that the car was perhaps already connected to a mobile phone and therefore rejects further connections for the app? In the user profile of the on-board computer is free at “private sphere” – because I actually understand the point of location?
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Ventilation makes loud bang after switching off
Moin Moin, I’m getting old again – many ask! – When I turn off the ventilation for fast long driving (so not the … here… what’s it called again… not the “indoor air around” but the fresh air supply ventilation…. (please for correct designation!!)))) there is a sec. after the ventilation is on zero a loud bang, or better said a dull blow, than when a thick plastic plate overturns. – If I only had the car with a short ventilation, and then it shuts off, the banging is not so loud or not listening at all. – If the car is turned off with the switched on ventilation, no bang can be heard either. – If I have this “indoor air” bangs it also not at all. – besides, I noticed that the ventilation in first and second stages of the strong braking is starting to beep/quiet, if I don’t have this “indoor air” bangs on it either.
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What would you spend on the smart?
As a transitional vehicle or second car I can get a smart from a good friend. It only asks me what you pay for it. The car is from 12/2007 and has run about 65000 km. TÜV has it up to 03/2021, 2nd hand. As far as so good, according to autofocus24 it would be worth about 2900 Euro. But the car has several scratches, the tires have to be changed, oil and brake fluid must, the air filter with sure also and a basic cleaning from the inside would be attached. Winter tyres are not there. I am almost getting in with 1500 Euro.
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Upgrade cruise control and MFA
Hello together, I play with the idea of retrofitting my Seat Mii BJ 2015 GRA and MFA. For this purpose I would like to estimate about the effort and the costs. If MFA is too expensive, I can do without it, GRA is more important to me. I would probably have to replace the power supply control unit, on the factory side is the “smallest” variant installed, which lacks the inputs for the switches/buttons on the steering stick levers. Is there something special to consider here? Or can I use any used control unit, with the matching part number (1S0 937 087??), pull out of the bay and simply install it? Does something have to be learned? And away from the tacho… Currently, I have to have the motor control unit and Tacho (wg. roadblock) which consists mainly of 7-segment digits – see photo. Can this tacho then also represent an MFA? Or do I also have to be replaced with the tacho then I would probably have to have to have the engine control unit and tacho (wg. roadblock) be taught to each other, but it is not necessary for me?
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Aluminium wheels 15 inches
Hello to all, since yesterday I finally got rid of the old 155/70R13-steel rims all-weather tires by 195/50R15-wheels also replaced all-weather tires. Now I have three problems and ask for help Seat Arosa 1.0 MPI AUC end 2003 1- Acceleration: I notice at once that the car does not accelerate at all – as if I had a gear less . Usually it was like this at 2000 U/min: -First gear: up to 1–20 km/h -Second gear: 20–30 km/h -Third gear: 30–50 km/h -Fourth gear: 60–75 km/h But now I drive most of the time at 44 km/h in the fourth gear at 2000 U/min :\ When I speed up I turn almost at 3500–4000 U/min but still it feels very sluggish to me. Can bigger wheels really make such a big difference? They like almost as much as the old … Ps. On the highway without big incline I can’t be recorded with a slow acceleration of about 140 km.
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Rugging Acceleration – Troubleshooting Set
Hello together, I apologize now for the lack of time for the very long entry. About help I would not be very pleased with the problem? I have a ProCeed GT (BJ 2020; first registration 10.2021; 2nd hand, since the purchase the following problem: Not always but very often the car does not release the full power when accelerating and then starts to jerk. Usually the problem has disappeared when I have once gone off the gas and give gas again. I was already often because of the problem in the workshop. Of course always then on a test drive, the problem was gone. At the beginning with the result “there is nothing in the error memory, error memory we have deleted and now continue to observe”. After this procedure has been repeated several times, the workshop started (, felt arbitrary) parts replaced. Also the gearbox was already open and the pick-up disks were changed, because these had apparently failed to report on the following cases. Everything was then finally the workshop master came to my home and we have the track where the error occurred in the rule and could not take on it itself.”
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Second inspection
Hello my loved ones I have had the new Kia proven gt for 2 years now and now it is soon as I have to do the second inspection… according to Kia (oil change+filter, brake fluid is replaced, body check, and all filter changes are on the second one.. now the fun should cost 690 Euro approx… is not that somehow much too much for it that is not braking or otherwise there is ?? Does this not belong to the second check to it ?? Bzw where can I read it myself as at that time with my Renault always stood and what is done .. I am aware that everything has become more expensive, however I find this already very violent and am thinking about having it done somewhere else .. what costs the fun then when there is even more .. I am curious about your opinion
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Incredible potential of the CTR
Well people, because anyway not sooo much runs in the forum: I picked up my CTR from the 60,000 service this afternoon with which I had the 2500 ferodos installed by the way… well, anyway, my way home lasts about 45min and I was in Eile because the weather report had announced hail for the evening. When I was quite fast into the highway ascent bog braked me out a ferrari heartily, I of course only saw red (the ferrari was red) and thought, let yourself fall back and then overtake it on the autobahn with proper running! Said, done! I was off the gas and in the 2nd… I then fully pedaled to the metal, the ferrari became ever faster… I 3rd walk…., 4th walk… could just take the hand out of the middle console there I was already past… uff managed! Have today the first time a ferrari overtaked, and that with a CTR photo still nice evening!
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JRSC inside
Hi guys. Here again a small part of the JRSC installation. Wednesday afternoon we had a good time. My buddy (kfz’ler) and I got started. The installation went without big problems. Here also a nice greeting to Morn and many thanks for the Hondata IMG. Hat great fit. All in all we needed about 5-6 std. Also the strap, which I had worried, fit wonderfully. 7PK1220 remaining for 4” strap disc without climate (thx menfou). We then wanted to turn on the same day also another round, but the CAI did not fit so properly, because he stands with compi a little further out. The next morning then came the completion. Front off, CAI turned on, map on it and off. I skipped here once again our “input phase” i.e. one time time from the compi, datalogging, strapping up etc. The first impression was rel. sobering. Until 3000 has not changed so much. And then one time seems easy.