Good morning, temporarily I played with the idea of replacing my Smart 451 for a new car. I noticed that the dealer prices do not reflect the vehicle value seizing. I am aware that the dealer with the used car has some work and must give guarantee, but the offered purchase prices, which were between 1400 € and 270€, I find already questionable. What is your assessment of the market value of the vehicle? The usual used car exchanges only reflect the desired prices, which are probably corrected downwards when selling. My vehicle: Smart 451 MHD 71PS Color: CC2L warm grey Number of previous owners: 1 Built: 10/2011 Running power: 90000km Equipment: Pulse Special equipment: Power steering and the rare hands-free device, which can be seen next to the speedometer as LCD clock. Thank you for your feedback. Roman
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Smart workshop (Raum Lüdenscheid / Hagen / Dortmund / MK) searched
Good day, for more than ten years I own a Smart 451 (71PS) MHD. Slowly certain larger repairs have to be made. Unfortunately, I notice increasingly that even the contract workshop in the enthusiasm for older smarts is greatly diminished and my confidence in the delivered performance is no longer given. Therefore my question: Which workshop in the Lüdenscheid / Hagen / Dortmund / Märkischer Kreis is recommended. I am primarily concerned about professional and skilled work. Thanks for the feedback.
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Smart convertible, folding roof does not close
Help, who has a tip for me. My convertible deck (Smart 05/05) doesn’t snap in the back left (back hook). Although the cover is pulled forward, it no longer closes completely. In the Berlin Smartwerkstatt you have now hourly new horror reports for me. First allegedly the rear hook was broken, now the complete cassette has to be renewed??. A glider is (probably broken because of crooked drawing). The costs should now move already at approx. 1.000 EUR. What can it be that the right hook closes and the left one doesn’t. Is this just due to the adjustment or is there really a more greeting part to break. I have no confidence to the workshop. I assume that the installer has never taken such a cover apart – and I can now pay for his teaching lessons.
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CTR glazed, practical test
In the autumn 4 layers of liquid glass were applied after being polished. Washed over the whole winter only once because it was oiled after I lost transmission oil. RSAMD knows what it looked like… Today, washed only once.http://www.tralia.de/Honda/Images/glass/lq01.jpghttp://www.tralia.de/Honda/Images/glass/lq02.jpg then polished out small scratches and applied a fresh layer, then nano-sealing.http://www.tralia.de/Honda/Images/glass/lq03.jpghttp://www.tralia.de/Honda/Images/glass/lq04.jpghttp://www.tralia.de/Honda/Images/glass/lq05.jpg fazit: the gloss is impressive, but clear. what impressed me much more is the protection of the varnish, after one-time washing, the almost never expected to be so fresh.
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I miss my EP3
Hi, just wanted to give me my feedback on the car: I bought my typer in 2005 and drove it for about 3 years. I sold the car because I thought I should buy a normal car now. then I sold it for a heavy heart. a bmw 320i (the new model) was now standing in front of my door… after 5 months I sold it again, because the car is boring=) then a focus st was standing in front of the door. he is always compared to the type r, but comes to the car not always look again and again at mobile and co pure and look after a nice, but the kms scare me off and the kms vote is too high… in the 3 years my type r proved to me faithful services. I would buy the car again if I had a nice run… here another picture…http://www.abload.de/image.php?imgjj19.
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TypeR suitable for long distances? (Basel-Kiel)
Servus together! After a short test ride with the FN2 I want to buy one. The car is simply the banger (so much steam under the hood), but I have to think a little bit about the “reality”. At the moment I am still the owner of an EP2 (110hp). It consumes at 130km/h 5.8litres (at 160km/h but then 7.5-8litres). But if I go to Kiel, then I should be a little faster (at least 180km/h) and then my EP2 is slow to slip. Do you have experiences what the FN2 consumes at a constant 160-180km/h? Does the car pay for long sticks at all or do you get “back” after 300km?:-D greetings together!
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Conclusion itmm’s
Have my last WE my “Energy Suspension engine bearing inserts” installed in short esmm’s and want to give a small conclusion. Many know the well-known wheel hopping, which occurs in some situations. This is to be prevented with these inserts. As I understood this, the wheel starts to hop when the engine tilts too strongly to the rear and you lose traction at the same time. Thus, the direction of force moves slightly upwards and the wheel lifts off. These inserts are put in the front and rear engine bearing and make it stiffer, so that the engine can no longer tilt so strongly at acceleration. As then the vibrations from the engine are transferred more strongly to the chassis, I thought I only built up the rear inserts. Installation worked so well so far. The lower frame had to be solved. Instructions zb here. So again all screws are pulled nicely tight and a small test drive made. Car started. In the stood now one hears the engine somehow more clearly. A few vibrations are carried out but it’s rather low, so it’s quite inexpensive.
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Hole circle and size
Hi, since it’s going to be summer and the winter slats are coming down I have looked for new rims around. The hole circle of the EP3 is 5 / 114.3 ?! And now the more important question, 8J x 18 fit without adaptation work? into the closer selection so far came the following:http://lib2.store.yahoo.co.jp/lib/yatoh/oz-ultralegera-ct-3.jpg andhttp://www.wheelmachine2000.de/…/ozcronohlt5gsx.jpg Both in Anthrazit since I think that’s best with Cosmic Grey Since the HP of OZ is somehow somewhat confusing I also wanted to ask if someone knows if there are both rims in the appropriate hole circle? PS. please don’t start a discussion about 17″ or 18″ now, that’s why it’s not for me!!! mfgg
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More power due to rear silencer?
Hello! Since so many experts are busy here and I didn’t get really satisfactory results via the search function, I ask the question here: Does it really bring something, if I would change the rear silencer with my CTR? A better sound would be certain to achieve with it, only it does something like that? The manufacturers specify the greatest values, e.g. performance increase of 5% with Sebring ESD! Or does it only make sense to replace the complete system? Which ESD, or which system would you recommend to me? Should of course also be eligible, or with ABE. Does anyone of you even have a system or an ESD that he would sell? Hope for your help!
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Heul – CTR is old iron
My beloved CTR isn’t anymore. But he didn’t have a heroic exit on the Nordschleife, but an infamous end on the Sülldorfer Landstraße, because my mother flattened it!!! While we were on vacation I put my CTR off with my parents, as always, because I only have one parking space outside. And if I recover 3 weeks he should also have it nice warm and dry. The gulf of my mum didn’t jump in one morning and since she had an important appointment she then drove with mine. I had unfortunately only an absolute driving ban for my two brothers pronounced that my mum would never have scratched the place. She drove into a wall. Although with relatively little speed, but she has driven in such an unfavourable angle that the whole body has pulled itself on it. Although it looked at first glance everything was irreparably looking like this, the car is a total damage according to Gutachter. My mum just happened to be lucky. But she did – right!!! – agaanz bad conscience. Well, I have to think about Hamburg, but I really had to think about what I had to buy it.