Hello, recently my friend’s Cooper has cracked the spring at the back left (mostly when springing out). I could not recognize a spring break so far. Only the coating of the spring is swollen and slightly cracked. And what I still noticed, the altitude is different: fender lower edge to the ground
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Recommended purchase: Smart 451 vs. 453
Hello, I need your support when buying a smart. Smart, because only the size is possible because of the parking situation in the Cologne area. I drive computerically almost 7-10TKM a year, of which 70% city, 20% country road and 10% highway. I want to drive the smart car 1.5 – 3 years, need high flexibility, because the running time depends on when my girlfriend moves to Cologne. Actually, automatic would be extremely important to me, but we also come here to the discussion or to your support : idea 1) New model, used A young use with 10TKM for 8-9T€ (then with leather). Unfortunately this does not correspond to my wish, I would like automatic, but then costs 11T€+ (over budget) idea 2) Old model Smart 451, from Bj 2012 it should be very stable. Here at least 71 PS and with under 50TKM I find decent starting from 5T€. Conclusion: New car too expensive and no flexibility, but rather an old or young used smart? – Feels the purchase costs for the young smart are once high, but with a gross calculation of the same value for the old price?
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Questions before buying.
Moin, wanted to buy me a used 451, 71 or 84hp, automatic, from year 2013, up to 850€. Do I have to pay attention ? Of course, checkbook is well maintained … and wanted to buy only from dealer. Can I easily buy the Smart with 30tkm mileage ? Dear 2013 or 2014 model ? 71 or 84hp? What should the Smart definitely have in equipment ? Radio I wanted to install a Pioneer with DAB+ and Carplay. So I don’t need the big radio. Or does it have advantages to take the Navi. If it’s in it I will of course test it and see if I change it. I am grateful for tips. Look already at mobile and smart cars. Greeting Tom
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Kaufberatung SMART as a beginner
Hey guys, I’m new here and I’ve found some advice from this forum. I’ve been reading myself a little bit, but I think that my questions are better off in a new thread, because they are only partly about a special model. First of all: I’ve had my driver’s license for a few weeks and I’m now looking for a smart. As the first car (and because of the budget) of course a used one. Maybe you can give me some advice about this? Basically, I’d like to put on a BRABUS because of the look, 98 hp. Insurance is a lot more expensive, though, the fuel consumption is certainly also. Is the question whether it would not be a 84 hp turbo or 71 hp for city traffic and country road… however, you can find the turbos only rarely and then mostly over 100,000 km… I would estimate the annual kilometers at 6-7,000 km, the smart would be planned for the next 3-5 years. That would be it first, maybe you can give me some advice so that I can narrow down my search further. ^^
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What to look for when buying smart??
Moin all together I would like to buy a smart as a second car I don’t care about equipment, engine I thought about the 54Ps but don’t have to! Is there anything I should pay attention to?? How much km does such a small engine or from how much km do I have to reckon with repairs?? Budget is around the 1500Euro less would of course be nice 🙂
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Engine tuning
Hello guys Has any of you ever installed the parts, what have you paid for installing, negative positive experiences, the coupling became much harder than the original one and how about the power????? Thanks Flywheel Lighter flywheel 3.7kg (Honda Original: 7.3KG), the manufacturer is Toda-Racing, by installing this lighter flywheel the engine can be faster turning up, loads of the crankshaft are reduced, the clutch does not have to be changed, material is Chrome moly steel Civic Type R, EP3 Toda-Racing High-performance coupling AP-Racing racing clutch, no change of the flywheel necessary, higher torque capacity 267Nm (Series 196Nm), with organic pulley therefore also suitable for road operation, delivery without return bearings Civic Type R, EP3 engine clutch necessary, higher torque capacity 267Nm (Series 196Nm), with organic pulley therefore also suitable for road operation, delivery without return bearings Civic Type R, EP3 engine
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Carbon Ram Air for CTR
Hi! A buddy and I have done something really good, namely a “Ram Air System” for the CTR. Fits to the original air filter hose on it and disappears wonderfully behind the grill, can be used also with mugenbox. Today we tested the first real carbon “Prototypes” on my CTR because of fit accuracy and so on. A few details will be improved, e.g. the hollow bottom of the shovel comes away, which was thought of you with the clips, but is unnecessary because it fits perfectly behind the grill and can not slip anyway, then there still a bit smaller and there rounder and then it should fit. The carbon is also not really processed, just for the test, the final version is then painted or matte, halt everyone as he wants. Here times a few photos: http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/92909sg.jpg http://img42.imahack.42g/cim.
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More power from ATR but how???
Hello everyone, I’m new to the forum and have not found any answers with the search function yet. Have already read a lot for the CTR but that doesn’t fit on my ATR. Therefore I ask directly to everyone. Drive an ATR 99 and want to install a clever exhaust with 200 Zeller Kat. Performance and sound are IMPORTANT. Where can I find and what costs?? I want to know further what possibilities I still have to get a few more PS from my Honda. ( lufi, camshaft, Apexi, Chip, ….) Should also be taken into account for engine durability. PS: Should be legal, so with TÜV. PS2: No turbo and compressor rebuilt. Thank you already in advance MFG Mars
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Correct switching technology
I have some videos, where also the pedal room is shown. Best motoring etc, where professionals and racers are sitting at the wheel. Well, when switching up you can hardly do anything wrong, when switching down it looks different again. When switching down and braking, you see how intermediate gas is given and at the same time coupled, so that the synchronization runs better. With sporty driving mode, how shab down? Do you control this technique or switch it down without intermediate gas? Isn’t it easy to get the whole thing synchronously with the clutch, brake and accelerator, without having a jerk, to use the gear I ask here, because most of the “racing drivers” can be found here. Let’s hear!
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Car purchase advice please 🙂
Hi guys… the old one has to go… no worries, not my treasure but the second car. For my girls we have a 99 polo variant at the moment. But it just bugs us hard because constantly something rattles and the defects accumulate. Now we are looking for alternatives. Should in any case something needed, preferably not over or around the 10k€ Bish can also become more spacious than the polo, Jazz would be nice, however, there in the suitcase room quickly gets tight. not cut, but Zafira and Meriva are with my wife in the narrow selection. I would run into the Mitsu Grandis, but they are still too expensive. You certainly have “reasonable” suggestions, or?? should just be able to pilg with two(!) Kiddies at Lago di Garda. AlexX!!!