Hello dear people, for about a week we have a smart 450 petrol truck for the work path. After initial difficulties, because the previous owner neglected the service and the car ran like on only one cylinder I changed the candles, cables, oil and filter and now it runs again very clean and calm. However, the turbo worries me because the rod after the valve was totally rusted, I removed the exhaust and looked for the problem. The rod can no longer be moved, the cracker has a hair crack, the turbo loader does not run with and the small “shovel” in the cracker is broken, see photo. In addition, I noticed that the tiptronic switching operations are unfortunately anything but gentle, probes are more beaten in. Can someone help what I can do and if I can drive with the broken shovel in the cracker so?
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Omega B seat rails screw must be new??
Hello to all screwdrivers! I’ll exchange the front seats to my omega B 16V CD Reflection! Moment inside only height electric, I want to install jetz of the MV6 fully electric with SH!! – Do I have to change the screws or can I use old ones against?? – Are the screws the same or other screws with the MV6? because compared to MV6 seat rails a bit wider! – Do I have to drill with winch drill(M8)? Please thank you for your help in advance!!! mfg
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3.0 Omega with Prins VSI, problems with gas ignition
Hello, so I have a fölgendes problem, about 4 months ago I had a gas system installed in my Omega 3.0, which is not running well until now. There are no problems on petrol. It seems that the gas is not lit properly, so constantly suspends. Then you really give gas, that means again. For example, he only jerks on cruisemat, with quiet driving it does not make fun. My retrofitter says that with the system everything is ok, doesn’t want to do anything (by the way, this is the autoking in Hamm). I have made very bad experiences with the people. The tank indicator doesn’t fun with me, because they have no sensor installed and don’t want to do that anymore, they also didn’t do the tuv. In the moterroom, when accurate hingucking, some parts were simply attached with cable binders (I don’t have any hoses). So really bad. Then they told me not to switch to German, I should change the candles. Well, that can possibly be done with the use of candles.
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Oil change? Total bullshit!
A good evening to all interested parties. I read here again and again in the forum questions like: “What is the best oil for our engines?” And again and again I could laugh at the naive answers. Almost ten years ago I did not make any oil change with my Corrado G60 over 70,000 self-driving kilometers on advice of the previous owner, a Porsche/Audi tuner with a well flourishing business. That used the car only in the winter. And when I sold the car with only almost 200,000km to a good mopped buddy, he did not change oil for further years. My last car (Astra F Caravan 1.6i 100hp) I left my father-in-law with 280.000km, the last oil change took place at almost 200,000km. Motor still has good compression, hardly any oil consumption, oil is never changed any more. Only the filter was changed once a year. Don’t believe their clueless shame? Already at that time the car picture made a long-term test with this result (was known to the tuner), at least 100000 times again.
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Lose control over steering wheel
Hello fans, I have a problem there again and hope someone can help me. To the dates, I drive a mini cooper clubman s r55 bond street 184 hp and 78000. I already pulled new rims on it two weeks before Easter, ats 19 inches. But now I noticed that when I drive into the curve and there for example a punch hole or a Gulli cover is that I somehow lose control of the steering wheel. What can that be? Until recently I did not notice this yet, I always get a slight shock when this happens to me. So it happened to me on the highway. Maybe you have a hint for me. Thank you already….
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TÜV Austria – I’m breaking down!
Hellas together! People I was at the TÜV in Austria today to get an overall opinion for all changes, so that I can have everything typed. I got it straight over! Prehistory: Opel Omega B X20XEV Weitec suspension (allegedly according to expert report -30/-30mm) 8×17 rims with 235/40/R17 round 15 distance discs Now it comes: 1) The car is too deep according to TÜV Austria! At the KAT it is 85mm! In Austria everything is not allowed under 11cm. I had a WEITEC suspension installed, because I thought 30/30 are possible without problems. And now the ground distance at the KAT 85mm is not allowed. Conclusion: I don’t get the registration in the vehicle papers and have to drive “illegal” and hope that the police didn’t stop me at some point. But in front nothing looks out or like that. Mobility of the tyres is not an issue. Everything in the green area is not allowed. Conclusion: According to TÜV Austria, the distance discs are not allowed at the front either.
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Purchase decision – Type R FN2 – Costs in maintenance?
Hello community, I have been driving an EJ9 for 4 years now and wanted to get a new vehicle next spring. I drive about 15km on work (road), every 3-4 weeks highway about 450km. I’ve been interested in the CTR since the show. Wouldn’t be interested in the question of running costs… Insurance+tax can be easily calculated. But how about fuel consumption, tires (wear, purchase costs) and workshop/inspection costs and reliability? I would hate to get a car, where I can only pay for it with difficulty and hardship afterwards. A work colleague drives an FK2 and is very satisfied with the inspection costs – but at the CTR he will certainly have a lot to put on the materials. According to Spritmonitor, I’ll have an approximate consumption of 10,x displayed – but how is your experience with the CTR? I guess that if I’m looking for a ride, he will certainly have his 13-14 liters? Can you also make a relatively economical move on the materials, when I’m doing the daily ride to work, but I’ll still have a good experience with the CTR?
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FN2 steering cracks and squats
Hello, I’ve been cracking my FN2 in the front area for some time now.It’s noticeable when I hit the steering wheel and start driving, or at very low speeds.And even if I’m going up a top or something. Tap on the front suspension.And when I hit my steering wheel in the standing position, it squats from the front.In the opinion that it’s mainly when I turn right.What can that be??And the stupid thing is, my guarantee is already around.
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Consumption of Ceed SW PHEV
Hello together. I have been reading here for some time and try to collect information about the long-distance consumption of a Ceed SW PHEV MY22. Background is; We want to go to Croatia in 3 weeks and I would like to know how far you come with a tank filling. The tank at the PHEV is only 37l large and I have not had the opportunity to test the consumption or the range over a longer distance with approx. 130 kmh. Thank you in advance for your reviews.
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Battery permanently empty with new Megane!!!
Hello guys, my wife has been having a brand-new Megane Berline 1.5 dci. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop. It’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop, it’s a bad thing to be on the bus stop.