Hello, I had a driving accident (self-inflicted) almost 2 weeks ago or drove up a bus with a final speed of approx. 30 km/h. Now my car is no longer ready to drive. (see photos) Now I had written to a workshop, transmitted the respective pictures and asked for an approximate price range. These told me that I had to reckon with about 300-400 € for the working time and another 300-500 € for the entire front. I would have to purchase the front myself from a scrap dealer/car user, (unmounted?! – I would have thought now) and pick up. My question would now be whether this assessment is realistic at all and if I didn’t end up at 1,500 €+. Does someone have experience and can give me his personal assessment? Does that make any sense at all with such a car? Note: There are no liquids out, the doors are not bent and the right headlight is still completely in order. -> Smart-FourFour, almost 20 years old and <150,000 km -> On-market places are traded under 500-2,000 km and the equipment segment.
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Liquid leaked (???) on the lower engine cover.
Hello omega fans, I hope you can help me with my problem described below. In the area of the crankshaft belt disc and the oil filter, I have been observing an oily, honey-colored liquid that is thrown through the running engine onto the engine cover below. This leak is only noticeable at a higher engine temperature and it is not as if this leak would persist constantly. It is always a certain “quantity” that is visible on the cover after I had wiped it away before. By the hand of a post I read here about the same characteristics as my omi, I had expanded the coolant flange and reassembled it with new seal – without success, it was all as before…!! I can’t imagine that this is supposed to be a leak in the cooling circuit, because the coolant liquid is greenish and the liquid on the M. cover is as described above “honey-colored”…. Thank you very much in advance for your answers…and in advance of all the happy greetings of the omega fans.
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test drive made…
Hi am just from a short but fast hour back in a CTR. I thought it would be great but it was incredible! Indescribable feeling, I really was afraid that the engine would fly around the ears at the speed organ! I can only recommend it! Didn’t come out of the grin anymore, believe that the grinning will last a few weeks… For me a really unique car with a great character and a similar is my opinion not to be found at this price. Who a car without comfort, brutal loud engine noises, a car without frill snaps that is lying like a board on the road, is well served so nothing for mercedes or jaguar drivers…. oh god I love this car I would buy it right away would do almost everything for me and give it all for it!It’s still a good racing car, a real car for motor sports enthusiasts.Honda has to be proven by this engine again that my leading producer is only used to me on this whole radio.
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Type-R offers
Servs, maybe you can help me? I’ve been looking for some time, namely a facelift. Preferably in red, preferably a 30th. The best offers are always the same away, I was just too slow. Wanted to ask if any of you know offers or offer your own (I know who’s so stupid?) for sale. I would pay cash (max. 17500 euros).Of course, it can be different colors than red I know it might be pointless, but asking costs nothing. (the mod should press a tongue, thank you) Thank you in advance. JOE P.S.: In autoscout is a black one, from nürnberg, private provider.
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CTR battery experiences
Hello people, had to notice the day before yesterday when I entered the car, that I had let the reading lamp burn over night…. Did not think about it (the thing can not need much current) and wanted to start the motor……. Well, the motor didn’t make any mucks! I pissed off, start-up cable out and with the corolla bridged by the girlfriend, now it runs again. After 1/2h driving around and 3h reloading, after that he has jumped again like never before!!!!! Meanwhile the jump-in slowly subsides again, he doesn’t turn so nice/fast at the start…. What does it look like with you, similar probs.?? To my car: drive mostly distances over 30km so no short distance and I bought it on sept. 03! Are the batteries of honda not worth anything or does 8h read lamp fundamentally not bear with an autobatt.? Cann’t be that after 1 1/2 years in a****, or?
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Cheap solution for a hands-free device for the Smart 451?
hello I’m usually in the Honda forum. Since we are allowed to call a new Smart Brabus exclusive our own since Saturday, I will probably also occasionally add my mustard here 🙂 On our Brabus the Radio 9 with sound system is installed. Now I want to install a Parrot MKI 9200 hands-free device with iPod connection. I have already found various PIN-legs of the ISO plugs and their peculiarities with the search function. However, information about the Mute connection is missing. Can anyone help me here? Gruss, hoele [Transferred from motor talk from the topic ‘Mute connection Radio 9’.]
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Omega B FL 2.5 2.6 or 3.0 ?
Hello, I would like to buy now an Omega B limousine. Should absolutely be a hand switch and Facelift. Thus the 3.2er falls away already, because it only exists with Opamatic. It should be a V6. Now I have read that the new V6 2.6 and 3,2 pull a good sip more out of the tank. Does someone experience with both engines ? Does the 3.0 (old) consume more than the 2.6 (new) or are about the same. Then I would look for the 3.0er with 211 HP especially because the insurance and repair costs are almost the same. I am a rather quiet driver who wants to go up early, but also sometimes on long distances comfortably with 160 km/h travel. (I know, to this also the 2.2er, but I want to know that I could if I wanted !) Greeting Astra 66
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What is that? At once more consumption of 1.4L/100km
Hello together, have a small problem with my thickness, where I do not climb behind WHY. My fat guy has spent the whole time in the third between 12,1+12,4L/100km, after the penultimate tanking the consumption at once increased by approx. 1.4L/100km to 13,8L and I honestly don’t know why that is now. Maybe one of you has an idea where I should look for it. I have to say that neither the MKL glowing nor the engine shows a noticeable lower power. Is actually as always, the engine runs absolutely clean in the LL and has power like an animal. Only now it sucks like a hole. The blowby system was cleaned in the summer, AGR shut down, the multiram system was repaired and cleaned. Also some seals/simmerrings were replaced, as well as the head seals. In addition, the Lambdasonden were changed, recently again against Boschsonden, no change with the Lambdasonden by RUF and Bosch always the same consumption of 13.8L/100.
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Questions from a roadster friend 🙂
Hello together, after a long time we (my wife and I) decided to get a roadie. However, I have rather little experience with Smart (except for a few weekend tours). I drove a Roadster Coupe before YEAR. Has been great fun, with the exception of the switch breaks. Now I have a few questions! – From which mileage would you rather advise? – Are there significant running performance with your usually what is due? (toothing/ Turborevision/Actuator/ Gearbox)? – Are there years of construction with certain children’s diseases or particularly recommended model years? – Can you do something at the switch break? I have read about actuator tuning. Is this recommended? – How would you describe the everyday suitability and also the winter suitability? It depends a bit on the offer whether it will be a Roadster or a Roadster Coupe. However, it should certainly become an 82hp model (Brabus rather too expensive). – How would you describe the everyday suitability and also the winter suitability of the 82hp more seriously? Or is that rather to enjoy it with caution?
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Omega B 3.0 Oil loss near transmission
Hello Omega friends, have a problem with my Omega B 3.0 Caravan automatic, 150,000 km. Oil loss, exactly where engine and transmission meet. In Annex 3 photos of oil loss. We have photographed the car only from below, without ramp. Only on the two screws, as seen on picture 1, runs oil down. Otherwise everything is very dry, as far as we can see, also around the screws. However, a lot of oil, in about 20 hours the amount of oil, as seen on picture2. Car drives and switches perfectly. Am myself only very limited expert, so please my question to you: What can this be? Will it be enough to tighten or seal the screws? Many greetings O. Attachment: Image1 Close-up Screws, Image2 Oil loss, Image3 Wide-up Screws