After sensor change, timing belt change and wheel bearing and climate compressor exchange as well as new tyres in the rear now the(!): Coolant loss after a short ride. Even after approx. 15 km driving distance the coolant tank is empty! Display in the on-board computer: Coolant level! Then I have already filled up about 2.5 l water already 3 times after each ride Scrap or replace engine installed? I think to repair the head seal (workshop) is not worthwhile at the running performance. But is a replacement motor with 116000 km running power from 1998 for 600 € worth? Oh so: For the exchange I need workshop help – I don’t trust it – ‘(again 700 €) and the next technical test is in September – I am confident , but you never know before what the “ING” finds everything. Thanks for all the hints.
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Xenon Sensor Omega B
Hello dear community, I have recently the following problem at my Omega B: [Opel Omega B Caravan; year 2001; Motor Y22DTH 120 PS; KM 246,000] – In the display of the BC the following message is displayed again and again: “Attention light range driving light” Then I checked the sensors on the front & rear axle. Conclusion: the sensor at the rear probably could not work anymore, because the “connection rod” was completely germinated. So everything is cleaned up and now everything goes quite easily. The error message comes however still. However, the actuators in the headlights work. If, for example, I load the car at the front, the headlights change. The same thing happens even if I do the back. But the problem now is that the motors simply adjust themselves in the complete standstill. So sometimes up, sometimes down, always back and forth and completely arbitrary. In my opinion, wrong signals arrive at the engines from somewhere. So I guess the message comes to the BC. Now the question, what can it be?
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R.I.P. or revive?????
Hello Omega friends, I received the Job’s message a few days ago. I finally managed to install crossbars etc.. I then arranged an appointment in a free workshop to mount the tire and axle measurement. On the occasion I gave the order for the TÜV-transparency. The result was really crushing. At the front so far everything okay, but rear axle……: Axle bearing knocked out, wheel bearing rear left defective, brake lines strongly rusted. Sounds not so dramatish for one or the other, however, for me already. 1. I don’t have a garage, 2. not the necessary clue and tool, 3. and that’s actually the main reason for me, the omi only cost 700.- and that’s just the question, in which relation is the rep. to the purchase price?????? or what do you mean? Until the days Maex
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Krachstrom ?
hello, I have a question for you. it’s about my omega. I wanted to go shopping yesterday, only my omega didn’t jump on. unfortunately I had to call the ADAC. was bridged, and swollen there he ran. when I told the ADAC that the battery was new, the yellow angel had the damage of crawl current. something he measured then, and found that there was a whole lot of current flutes, even though the car was off. then he had pulled all the fuses, and found the culprit. it’s safety nr 7, which is only responsible for the interior lighting. over night I pulled the said screening times, and look there, he jumped on without problems. now my question. all the lights go off when locking the car. have checked everything today, like a suitcase room, glove compartment lighting. everything ok. where should be available then, if all lights are out?
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Big Problem
Hello… I really wanted to tell you how long I had something about my new timing belt. It was exactly one day. Yesterday was the whole day on the road and the engine ran smoothly. Then I wanted to start again in the evening and at the start he suddenly shrugged around so funny, as if he stopped short at the start or stalls or something. But he then jumped, but he suddenly listened to himself like an old tractor. Significant mechanical noise, running rough, MKL then went on and you have the feeling as if he smelled like sprite or something. Can it be that the timing belt somehow jumped over or something? Of course I have guaranteed on it but as a little skeptic I am afraid that they will tell me now something else that can not have broken everything just to push that not on the timing belt. So the problem is really right during the startvogangs happens and not when he ran away. Now I am rattless, with my nerves at the end, and before all that is wrong with the new motor. So I don’t have to say anything about it.
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Timing belts skipped due to defective wapu
Hello, so on a new one, I have the following problem. The belt was skipped and the engine went out a little later. So now I have all the parts new here and installed but the belt can not be properly laid on, the following. If I put the KW on ot (mark on the KW on 6 UHr), then the inlet camshaft can not be set on ot because what blocks, I turn the KW a piece before or back then goes but then the ot is no longer right? How can I get that now, I don’t understand the ot position of the kw wheel once the nut and once the two circles. What’s what about it? The kw disc can only be properly built up so that they can’t get wrong because the screws don’t fit then. Would someone explain to me exactly how I get the pistons or valves so close that they don’t stand in the way and block and how I put the OT on the KW place with which one.
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What alternative is there to the Omega?
Hello, to Omega I personally appreciate the wheelbase and above all the place (in the 3’er BMW & Co. I get fear of space) – and of course the price. The driving performance is secondary, the 2.0 16V is enough for me personally. Now I want to drive my Omega even further, but also look around for alternatives (the new Vectra and Omega Facelift do not like me). By chance I have seen the current (Facelift) C5, the pre-model I found from the interior not outstanding. This is striking that the car from the place is similar to the Omega, and from the price you get the car new for almost EUR 19,000. The discount battle hits Citroen particularly hard, at these prices, a comparison in the car exchanges creates clarity quickly, dominate the new cars far above the used car, which in the last consequence means the used car as a Citroen can only be transmitted extremely over the price, but the usual flip side of the medal (as in the case of Omega it can only mean driving, driving, driving).
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Another purchase recommendation… Mazda 6
Hello everyone, after an economic total damage 3 weeks ago we are now facing the next car purchase. A very difficult matter at the moment … hours long search until now relatively unsuccessful. We are looking for a reliable medium-old combi (small family with 1 child therefore does not have to be a huge box ) up to 17,000 €. The plan is to buy the car with about 100,000 kilometers and then in some years with about 250,000 kilometers to sell. The car should not have a too big value loss. Currently in the selection Volvo V60 (very few offers on the market) Skoda Octavia (almost a little too big) Opel Astra or Renault Meghane (as emergency solution) BMW 3 Series or Audi A4 (something above the desired price) Now I have discovered a Mazda 6 Diesel, automatic with 175 Ps from the dealer. Full equipment 100,000 kilometer level but 2016 year for 17,000 € What would you think the best solution/model for us? Is the Mazda 6 interesting or rather finger gone Many thanks to the experts. I would be very pleased as a layman about answers.
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2015er 2.2D automatic problems
Moin Moin, my 2015 175D with 105tk on the clock causes me grief with the automatic transmission. It makes itself so noticeable that he in 2 and 3 gears does not switch down cleanly and the gears go too far. You notice it especially in the stop and go traffic. It comes to a jerking when you stay on the gas and hold it in the range of 1750u/min, one gives a gas shock or takes the gas back it is away. It is the EAT6 gear, the switching processes themselves are liquid and inconspicuous, the gear has already been rinsed 2x and the learning values have been reset, the further there was a software update at Mazda. Unfortunately, there was no success, from the feeling I would say that if he would switch 100u/min rather it would not come to the jerk. Does anyone know that from you?
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Tacho broken? Helpee
Hello dear community, desperate I have signed up here! I have been Mazda owner since October 2022 and was totally satisfied. In December overnight, it started to work both radio keys no longer. However, I can open the doors with the key and start engine. 1 day later, the tacho lighting did not go any more, as well as the speed indicator. Subsequently, several errors appeared in the speedometer and the servo did not work. I noticed when I press horn that does not go, but the error messages jump away only engine control light remains on as well as tire air pressure! Driving it is quite normal no power loss otherwise what. I was in several workshops and they found nothing. I am totally desperate who can help me ?