For sale: VB € 4.599,- Used car 2 Previous owner Construction: SMART Cabrio First registration: 06/2000 Kilometer level: 123.450 km Fuel: Petrol Power: 53/72 (kW/PS) Gearbox Automatic Exterior colour: Black Consumption: 5 l/100 km Doors: 2 Vehicle equipment: Airbag Alarm system Aluminium rims Passenger airbag Electric window lifter Air conditioning Radio/CD Side airbags Tuning immobilizer Central locking Vehicle description of the provider: Interior: Orange-Blue Becker CD Player/Radio RPM, watch, CD compartment, additional small storage compartment 4 Aluminium rims registered tuning on 72 hp Further details about the vehicle: Fuel consumption*: 5.0 l/100 km (combined) Key number: 8773/303 HU test: 06/2009 Capacity: 599 cm3 Cylinder: 3 gears: 6 seats: 2 empty weight: 805 kg Pollutant class: Euro 3 Fine dust badge: 4 (green)
Blog
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What about the prices for the 450? 8,000 euros for a CDI (EC 2007) too much?
Hello together, what’s going on with the prices for the 450? My friend drives a Smart ForTwo with the following configuration: ForTwo CDI Passion (450) EZ: 03/2007 17,000km Silver/Silver Inside Black Climate Alu Glass roof sound package etc. Price: 8,000 euros She bought the car a year ago as an annual car with 9,000km for 10,000 euros. At that time we were very satisfied with the price, after all, the Smart as a new car had cost 14.500 euros. Now the car should be sold, because we need something bigger; unfortunately we do not manage to get the set minimum of 8,000 euros for the car. So far only few interested parties have registered and more than 7,000 euros wanted to pay. What is your opinion – do we still have a chance to get more money for the car? Gruss, Maegga
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Brake pads changed, so what?
After the BC had woken me up with a warning “brake lining”, I had to do something. Brake pads and new sensors brought and built in.. No big movie theater, everything went great. (7er Imbus is not in every assortment!) Covers were also all nicely worn out, both sensors ground through, discs not shouting and the thickness was also ok. As far as everything was great.. After the installation the car braked though, but one had the feeling to step into a bucket of butter, and not on a brake. Totally soft. As if there was air in it.(Cables were of course not off). Also the pedal path was macpy longer than before. After n few hundred km, however, this is always better now, although I did not know whether I was used to it now. I was also on Monday at my workshop on the test stand, and the master meant brake would be ok, would probably not harden itself any more. After n few hundred km, however, I did not know whether I had to get used to it now. I was not able to change the brake again, but I could change the brakes.
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What’s going on on the board?
Hello! I have to find out unfortunately that the board here is becoming more and more neglected. The touch that some people show here is to say the least among all sows. Maybe it’s already noticed that the people who have tried to give competent answers so far more and more to draw down on what this can be? Maybe because this is becoming more and more a Kasperltheater. Ever the same questions as how deep, how big the rims 17 or yet 18er maybe also 20er how wide the tires –50Ps more in the 3.0V6 for best only 20 € ,how do I drive the MV6 with 5l consumption or runs your 2016V also 240 km/h quite not to mention the eternal purchase advice questions . It can not be so hard to use the “SCHE” to use. The very last thing I find here, if the people are trying to give proper answers , they are then also insulted by other users , which are open to blöd to try the search . Yes I know this is completely OT but no matter the people have tried to give me proper answers .
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Smart without power steering – who misses it?
Hello, I just want to ask you smart questions, if one of you has regretted buying a smart without power steering? I myself have noticed that most smarts are without servo.. don’t understand this at all.. above all, servo add-on was not expensive at all (I think). And in the smart center you told me.. you would have no chance to retrofit it, I would do that immediately, so much luxury should still be in it +g+ Now we are about to buy an almost new smart that has everything, but unfortunately just without servo. But well, what is a smart for me or us.. a smart is brilliant for every small parking gap but exactly there the problem starts without servo (or pure learning thing?) find that the smart itself stands in the way, if you hardly get into the gap, because it is made so difficult for you.. when my girlfriend wanted to park on a mountain at the test ride, she wanted to park at half the park Manöver and has gone on. I noticed that a woman doesn’t even fall so easily. Since many women would like to know about driving a smart car.
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My automatic transmission is leaking…
Hello! I’m new here in the forum, but I’m in similar live! Of course I’ve looked around here before and have to say how to deal with each other – that’s exactly mine – that’s what I like! And also the tips! – so well described – will now also dump 2T oil into the tank *ggggg* But now to my (large) problem: I had my transmission oil changed back then (November 2005) (automatic) Well, the workshops (it’s already 2) won’t keep the whole thing tight anymore. Now there’s a new tub (the big one) on it, a new seal, new screws …everything is new, but it’s still getting a little oil out. What should I do now? Tell me my (biger) board computer what if the oil level in the gearbox becomes too low? Can it be that the transmission somehow got damaged? Which messages does the automatic transmission bring… I’m really desperate, because it’s been pulling away now since March … I hope it’s not going to be expensive, because I’ll soon father and need every cent, however, I want to keep the Omega, because I love it!
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Smart bought – Help
I bought a ́03 Smart Cabrio (old mod.) in a SC about 2 weeks ago. Before the takeover a KD was made because the oil lamp had always lighted briefly in curves. Now it is that the oil is already on min, how can that be? This indicates an engine damage, right? The second problem is that the headlights had always needed about 5 sec until they went on, now they only go on when you turn on the fog lights…. What rights do I have now? Could I put it back again?
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Accident with the guardrail
Good day dear engine talk community, I had an accident this morning in which I drove into a guardrail. I probably flew out of the curve. My vehicle got it pretty hard. I insert pictures to illustrate the damage. My questions are now: Where do I have to go to get that repaired? What exactly is being done? And the most important thing is, what will it cost about? I’m in training and unfortunately I don’t have a lot of budget. That’s my biggest worry now. I don’t have any real damage on front and rear bumper, are just a few scrapes. That’s why I would have it done sometime. The correct damage is on fenders (driver side, front and rear) and the two doors. The vehicle is a Polo 6r Bj 2010.
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Antennas Telescope
Hello and good evening. I need some help. In my W123 Coupé I would like to install a new electrical antenna. I have already expanded the old one. From the car/radio a red, a black and a white cable arrive in the trunk. From the new Hirschmann antenna a red and a green one come. If I close the cables together as in the instructions of the antenna then you will not drive again. I should. Instructions connect the red and green of the antenna to the red plus pole cable from the car/radio. But what I want is that the antenna as before with the old antenna only shuts out when I turn on the radio. And when I turn off the radio it should start again. But when I have switched off the radio the right cable combination is not found. I have already connected the red cable from the antenna motor with the black cable and the green one from the antenna motor with the red plus pole cable. Then the radio leads on and see, the antenna runs out. But when I switched off the radio again the antenna has remained outside. WER CAN connect the antenna with the blue cable and the green one from the antenna motor.
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W123 Central locking control valve driver door differential
Hello, my central lock no longer opened. After researching something and the exclusion procedure I noticed that the working element is leaking in the driver’s door. When the engine is running it blew out of the cylinder well. So I ordered a new one from Mercedes. On the Internet I still found that there is probably an early and a late model of it but both should fit. But that’s not so. The white is the new and the black is the old one. The hole distance that I can screw the cylinder to the door fits, then the cylinder sits so close to the doorpin that the “blech” is much too long in between. Is there an extra sheet of metal that I would have had to buy with it? Does this just speak against a sheet metal to bend and use?https://data.motor-talk.de/…/20171106-201117-56079687043088560.jpg