Moin dear Omega community, as the title says, my cooler has just burst. Where? Of course on the upper tube, the typical place. The Bakelite has blessed the time. Can I not use it for a moment. Maybe there is one of the Berliner screwdrivers in stock for a 2.2? May also be one from a butcher. If you have to pick up again tonight, you need the omega, otherwise don’t come away at night. If you have one over, please report, go now to the 2 meter – short sleep.
Blog
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Audi 80 B4 1.9 tdi
Hi there! Need a b4 tdi expert tip. My tdi (220.000km) is now rusting while giving gas. Not much, but still worrying. Small history: Had a few weeks ago the following phenomenon: – Drive every day about 160 km highway at speed 150. Suddenly a sudden power break occurred, then a short-lasting blue cloud out of the exhaust (seen in the rear mirror). After 2 seconds everything was ok again. Still drove to the next parking lot to look at the right. EVERYTHING OK!!! So I went on. After that I had about 3000km quiet and everything was quite normal, until I had to realize yesterday that the engine out of the exhaust black rusts when speeding up. Although not threatening, but already worrying. In the idle run everything is okay: No soot, no rattle, everything was fine. Because of the first incident, I thought that the turbo was broken or something. Have taken off today but the turbo hose. Result: I didn’t see anything normal yet?
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Bang in the air filter box!
Hello to my problem: It’s an Audi C4 Limo with AAR engine that has 240 000 km down. To my problem: I start the engine (cold) super turns but immediately after the start to 2500 rpm falls back then but to 950-1000, immediately start off is no topic however after 200-300 it takes bad gas and if I then stop and want to start again I first have to turn up to 2500 and slowly release the clutch and then I have a misignition in the air filter box. After another 500-700 meters the whole thing is over. If I start it warm (not operating temperature) and want to start off again I also want to start a misrecovery in the air filter box. And I always have a slight training wheel shake and sometimes swing swings, sometimes I have a training run around the 650 rpm then again 750 or 950 rpm. What I’ve already renewed temperature sensor 2 pole (orig. VW) Lamdasonde from Bosch Klopfsensor was able to give an oil hose nozzle and a new gas hose nozzle.
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ABS without function – lamps Check OK – then off again
Hello people, with my 2,8 year 94 the ABS doesn’t work. If I fully enter blocks everything completely! The ABS indicator light lights up when starting – then goes out again. Read out error memory and ABS Stg. check are in order and without error, when reading out the control unit the lamp flashes then in AI briefly. Can’t that explain to me? Normally, should the lamp in AI light up permanently when malfunctioning?! Can you not manually test or run the ABS “pump” or ABS block as always the part means? Talk to 12V and see if it’s rammed? Because it can’t be on the ABS sensors, if an unplausible value would be delivered or none would occur at all when interrupting then a mistake would occur?! Slowly, really, and shortly before bringing the box into the workshop… Greetings
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Ford Transit Underbody rust what to do?
Hello, my transit has put a little rust down below. no rusting, quite superficial everything. Now it should come still so 2, 3 times through the Tüv. Should I do a little more effort here, or would it be enough here if, for example, I went once a year with some fluid film? Or maybe all with Fertan infiltrate? A complete resealing at the specialized plant (safe > 1000€) is too expensive for me and I don’t think that’s worth it The whole back is the trailer coupling.. that consists of almost 1cm thick steel.. there is therefore rust relatively no matter Transit Box BJ 2007 150Tkm
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Audi 100 C4 – Glue the shape of the sky – Audi glue or simple body glue?
Finally…. I finally got a new (or intact) moulded sky for my worry child. It cost me 400 km of motorway ride, 2 chickenburgers and a green glow. Now I have the exact instructions, but wonder if I can use temperature-resistant body glue instead of the not exactly defined glue. From Audi I had picked out D172090A2 – 27,97 € or D190MKDA3 – 33,20 €. If conventional glue without the 4 rings on it fulfills the same purpose in itself quality, I would save a few cents, which I can then pump into the car elsewhere. 2. Question. Could one imagine a thin, heat-insulating position between the roof skin and the molded sky from ???, in order to minimize the heat effect in the future especially in dark vehicles? I am grateful for every tip. I wanted to expand the old sky carefully, if necessary make a print / cast off and then reclaim it in the expanded state.
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Relay 30 ( 99 ) in slot 14 additional relay panel
Maybe something useful…I’m amazed that 3 billion people in the world have problems with the relay 30 and should always talk and answer in the search function……so,for all those who know this problem or have it for the first time!I hope to have hit it well with the following pictures, correction is desired…It’s no magic to find the relay and already garno witchcraft to repererate it.Knowledge with the bypass of soldering irons are helpful here (who knows you shouldn’t bite in there is already a step further)…To visit our friend ( Relais 30 ), we have to remove the cover under the steering column.There are 4 six-point screws of the key width 8(mm)
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Audi 80 Avant Quattro qualities of the installed engines
Hello dear Audi 80 friends, I have an Audi 80 Avant Quattro with a V6 2,6l. Now I have made myself a little smart about the installed engines and found that the engine consumes quite a lot and relatively little power which I did not consider to be a big porblem. A big problem is that the installed control units do not do well to the engine. one can practically do what one wants to do but they barely create more than 200,000km. I already have the 2nd inside and am at 177,000km the first had 220.000km down. Well now I look for a powerful and qualitative engine for this series. The consumption should not be very high (which would not bother me if it were not so), have as much down as possible and be well cared for. And hopefully not the problem with the control units. I hope you can help me, I thank you very much because apparently there is not much time left, because I already slowly notice that more and more errors, noise etc. occur. And said, I don’t ride like a so-) but I rarely say thank you very much.
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Idling problems MV6 (empty speed more and more often too high)
Hello, would like to introduce me briefly 😉 I am the Thomas 36 years old and drive an Omega B 2,5 MV6 Bj. 95. For a few days the idle speed is very different from my Ommi. When you start the car is mostly everything ok, then you start driving a few kilometers the engine suddenly to turn very high, sometimes even up to almost 3000 turns which then very hesitantly go down again. The whole comes very different and mostly so I think only over 90° engine temperature. Vlt. knows one the problem…… I was clean nevertheless cleaned it, all cables checked, air quantity meters also clean, throttle flaps look good, nevertheless already clean, further does not come to me any more ;-( Would be grateful for any help…… Greeting: Tommek
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Omega B – X25DT – Problems with the front axle
Hello dear omega riders, after my omega got through the Spanish holiday perfectly, I have a new big problem. When I bought the vehicle, I saw from the tires that it needed an axle measurement. I then installed new crossbars, spring legs, track rods, cathedral bearings and stabilizers. After that I had the vehicle measured. When I had picked up the vehicle the steering wheel stood strongly to the left, which I immediately claimed. We then put the car directly on the stage, the steering wheel with the water scale straight and blocked and we had to find out to our astonishment that all the values had voted almost 100%. Fall, track and run were top! What struck me then, when I brake on the highway and hold the steering wheel firmly, pulls the steering wheel immediately to the left, (brake forces are on both sides the same). Let the steering wheel go and brake the car remains in the top track, but you can see how the steering wheel turns a little to the right. If you lose the brake it can turn off the side of the wheel, the tires are absolutely wrong to the left. If the tires are still checked. But the tires still have to be checked.