MOTOR-TALK

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  • Wheel hub, wheel bearings or something else?

    Good evening The following problem – it would be nice if you could give me a few inputs: Left drive shaft joint on the wheel side was broken, whole drive shaft was changed –> after the change the wheel would move in the mounted condition, i.e. had about 1 cm of game when shaking (yes, it is all tightened 🙂 ) It is not obvious where exactly the origin is. Now, after the drive shaft has changed, one hears noises when driving suspiciously sound like wheel bearings. Dumbly asked: can a broken wheel bearing cause such a game? Thanks for your help and greetings Karin

  • …2-pin. Plug on the AAH engine searched….

    Hello together…. …just build with my son an AAH motor in a Coupe prepared for the Rally-Sport…. Unfortunately a lapsus underrun: …a 2-pin. socket with corresponding 2-pin. cable (colors: yellow/grey and brown) the label seems to be lost and we don’t know where to go with the good part….the cable comes from the large cable harness, which goes in the direction of the control unit and is a little longer than the other cables….the switching image I searched three times and found nothing….control level indicator for brake fluid is also not (also yellow/grey and brown and also two-pin) …have attached a photo of the socket with the dirty hands of my junior`s… Maybe someone can help us….best of all thanks already….

  • Bargain on Ebay – Lemförder crossbars VA Audi 100/A6 C4!

    No… I’m not the seller or one of his friends! Just just bought a crossbar for my fat guy after I had been looking for it for a while. Original Lemförder for 60,- € the piece! And the dealer is not in China or Poland. I bought 2 handlebars. But the seller has immediately set up new handlebars, but now for just under 72,- € the piece, which is still cheap for Lemförder and compared to other offers. Should only be an info for those interested who have such a high handlebar wear as me.http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=361032461868http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=361032399612 I hope the tip helps a (further) of us to save some coal. mfgg

  • How fast is a turbo gasoline “too hot” to shut down?

    Hello, I have already read through the numerous threads on similar topics, but not yet found a suitable answer to my question. In general, there seems to be a bit of a spiritual question anyway. Yesterday the following situation: 40km quite normal country road; in front of the parking lot about 20-30 meters quite steep path (I drove in the 2nd gear, quite high load, Turbo was clearly audible) My question: Are so short distances already enough to make the turbo “too hot? I as a layman already think that a turbo should have no problems with it (were not 2h at full load and 20-30 meters are also somehow a joke, but on the other hand, the revolutions in the turbo are also very high?). Anyway, I went for safety then just a round over the parking lot with standing gas / little gas to cool the turbo again. Thank you for your information. PS: is about a new Fiesta with 1.0 Ecoboost, which is why I am always a little paranoid, but also a little paranoid.

  • Engine dimensioning and durability

    Today’s cars are certified “as a whole” a better durability than the cars of a few decades ago, so at least my impression. This is probably primarily about the rust question, not about electronics and drive. =) In the engine area there is the assumption that “downsizing” leads to increased wear – is this only focused on attachments such as turbochargers, injectors etc. or does this concern in your opinion also the block including moving parts? I would like to look at this from the perspective of the moderate load placed on an engine in its lifetime. But even with a restrained motorway speed of 130 km/h, the continuous load required by smaller engines is significantly greater than with correspondingly stronger engines. For this, the smaller engine can be moved significantly more efficiently, namely in correspondingly higher load range.My core question is based on an example: Motor A has 80 hp, runs the majority of its life with 130 km/h = moderate load requirement Motor B has 140 hp, runs the majority of its life with 130 km/h = low load requirement. Now the nominal power is of course only a rough measure of the capacity of the engine’s average operating speed or is made up to the average.

  • Anti-rust Bodywork – 3 years later

    What I would like to do here is: to collect the experiences of members who had treated the body with visible rust spots 3 years ago. Interesting is what exactly was done, with which (chemical) means and whether the rust came back after 3 years (or earlier). I just had to treat my car and could not find any reliable information besides a cavity treatment test, which are traceable over several Jaher. Most people write about the just freshly performed rust treatment. But how that looks after 2-3 years comments then. So I will search the forum and ask the authors of the posts, which are for more than 2 years in the past, to post their investigations here by PM. Then one can learn from first hand what has worked and what does not. If you personally have the experiences, write like this too here. It only has to be enough time since the treatment has passed. If I know someone else who has done this, I would also be happy if you want to contribute to the thread. The Zinc wall can not do so originally.

  • Painting work on Opel Astra H Bj. 2008

    Hello municipality, I hope in this themed forum I am in the right place with my problem: We drive an “Opel Astra H 1.7 CDTI DPF Caravan” from 2008 (KBA2: 0035 / KBA3: AHO). The color is starsilver-metallic (color code: Z157 XXVM). At the edge of the right rear wheel run and the complete lower edge of the right rear door the lacquer/clear varnish – slight corrosions are already apparent. The previous owner has already done two painting work at these places, but after the cold winter months “resolved” again and again under the clear varnish. On the pictures you can see details What can be the problem that always after the cold winter months these old rehearsals appear? Well aware that a statement without direct consideration of the car is difficult: Is there still the possibility to carry out improvements via “smart repair”? Can anyone recommend a painter in the area Cologne & Rhine Erft circle?

  • Piling stick shows way too much ATF….can that be true?!

    Hello, I bought a track rod for my ZF 4HP18 transmission (Audi 100 C4 2.6E), because there is only one stop on it from the house, which you can’t measure. (at least for some versions of this transmission) Now I drove the car now 10km warm and then measured the ATF stand according to instructions. And the bar shows me a clearly too high value on….that goes already beyond the upper ball on the rod. Can that be? Shouldn’t the car have some problems when switching? Just before c.a 20,000km at AaM in Düsseldorf let the ATF change….should I be surprised if they had filled in such a large amount of too much. The reason why I measured it at all: A friend recently bought an E46 320ci with the ZF 5HP19 automatic and the thing switches like butter….you really notice garnix. Running performance is almost identical to my… My 4HP18 is also soft and reliable, but you can see that it’s a little bit of the kick and the result?

  • Help, battery control light lights!!

    Hello people, this morning after motor start suddenly batteie control light on,and a little weak have given some gas around 5000-6000 UPM fixed from 4500upm light is very weak and between 5000-6000upm extinguished!!! gas released comes again,motor out of again same… a friend said it is LMA diode,controller or mass point to motor…! What is defective jetz LMA or massepunk?? LMA 100AM (BOSCH)I bought for 85€ with guarantee from schrotti.For the installation he wants to have 30-40€ it is good price? Thanks for your answers!! MFG Reflection

  • Omega track plates dismantle but screw round!!

    Hello, I had the last winter wheels mounted. At the back the track plates should be removed. There are 20mm plates, these are attached with screws(17 SW) to the vehicle, then the wheel is screwed to the track plate. Now the impact screw has not been fixed correctly and on both sides is each one screw completely round (it was then tried with a 16er nut the disaster still to avert, but also that went wrong). The 2 screws are now completely round. Now everything has been screwed again and the winter wheels are mounted so. How could I remove the track plates best? My solution would be chiseling on or with a slip the head of the round screws (and a part of the distance disc which is then in the way) flex and then remove the plate. To chisel however, I think that such blows, which then also hit the wheel slash is not good at all. If that works with the impact disc and then you take off the disc, is still the question if the screw can be turned off so easily from the wheel scar. However, for example, I would have made the most sense of the tension.