MOTOR-TALK

Blog

  • Omega B – X20XEV – does not start,

    hello you love , have the problem since Thursday angriert me my dick , following was day practice down all io , evening to work he does not jump on , so much more not , next morning jumped than had been nothing , in the evening even without problems early home everything without problems , so and since yesterday noon again only leiern no jump on , in memory nothing is stored , it can act here a problem of dis-module or there are other possibilities where I can look , would be grateful you for tips since I have found in the treat also not so of the judge , gruß der micha

  • Omega B – Headlights – Depo conversion ?

    Hi, is it the xenon unity or even only the lenses from my totally defective Hellas into still new quality depos, so that I have good luminosity. Think that then the modest tea light of this depos is finally eliminated as far as this has succeeded. Oh yes, the discs of the Hellas are after repeated grinding and polishing over the years no longer usable. With reflectors of the main light the chrome is 30% off according to DEKRA. mfG Holger

  • Y25DT – FC P1190 (1) Rail oil pressure too high

    Hello together, has there an information to and knows under which circumstances this FC is set? I am just a little unsure what exactly is meant by it. Perhaps I “produced” the FC myself with the last ECU changes. For my understanding Raildruck has nothing to do with the oil pressure, that just makes me a bit perplex what the “rail oil pressure” should be. Please ignore the first error code, which has been paralyzed since I put my ABS itself through a wrong variant coding. See here:http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…rung-ich-hab-mist-baut5607276.html Achso, the FC P1190 appeared at full load in the 5th gear at approx. 3000 rpm. Engine was out of power, completely gone. I then restarted it and continued. Thanks and greeting, Thomas

  • Omega B – Y25DT – How high is the air flow rate over the LMM normally measured?

    Hello to everyone. Sorry for my yazy. I don’t speak English, and it uses Google translation. I have to help with my Opel Omega 2.5 DTI automatic. What is the air throughput should be in idle when the engine is warm. My OP-Com shows 240 mg/str, I think it is very small, and an increased fuel consumption of 13 liters with a quiet drive. I don’t know if I should change LLM. And if it is possible to put it to another manufacturer, not the original GM? TK I live in Belarus and we don’t have anywhere to buy LLM and as far as I understand it is very expensive. Thank you for your interest in my problem.

  • ?Mountain approach

    Hello, I’ve been a proud owner of a brand new Smart Passion for almost a week. Since I haven’t driven a car for 29 years (until then always normal circuit) I’m a little bit heavy. My biggest problem at the moment is getting out of the garage and driving up a very steep slope. I only have a way to get out of a garage on a flat area of about 1.5 m. Then the extreme climb comes immediately. I tried it in automatic mode, there the car is almost “racked up” on 1/2 track. When I started softtips I also have the feeling that the car will stop right away. I’m coming up, but only with “Hangs and strangles”. I don’t want to shoot up, but a little more would be nice. Can someone from the professionals tell me a tip?

  • I want to start my own VW & Audi Oldschool Cars – Schrauber Club

    We would like to start our own VW & Audi Oldschool Cars – Schrauber Club in 1996 and we are looking for some new members from the area Mosbach, Ludwigsburg, Stuttgart, Heilbronn, Sinsheim, Main – Tauberkreis, Schwäbisch Hall Kreis, Crailsheim, Aalen and Heidenheim. Who likes to be on oldschool cars from VW & Audi and would like to screw his car from the ground up, then also like to drive at the club life and at meetings is very welcome with us. The following VW types are welcome : Golf 1 – 3 ( also Cabrios ), Passat 32b – 35i Facelift and predecessors of the 32b, Corrado, Derby, Jetta 1 – 2 / Vento, Polo 1 – 4 ( 6n to Bj. 1996 model 1997 ), Caddy 1 – 3, Käfer, Bulli 1 – 3, VW other. The following Audi types are welcome: Audi 50 ( Polo 1 ), 100 ( with Quattro or without ), 200 ( also with B 1995 or B 8.

  • Oil pressure warning light lights

    Hello, my Audi 100 has a pain again. When I was on the B6 at 100 km/h on the way, suddenly the oil-pressure warning light with Summer lit up for about 10 sec.. I then stopped right away and checked the oil level, but that was OK. Can happen I thought and then drove on, but after a short time the same game nevertheless this time I found out that after decoupling it immediately runs out. Did any of you ever have this error before? Do I have to change the oil pump or is there another cause? I say thank you. MfG Martin

  • NF engine problem

    HI, I have a problem with my Audi 100 C3 Avant, which has been standing in my yard for quite some time now, as I simply can’t find the error. The car has 98kW and 2309ccm. So, according to my research, it’s probably about the 2.3e NF engine with the Ke III Jetronic. I’ve been stuck with the car after the engine only ignited in shock and then went completely out. At the moment, the engine goes through, but doesn’t jump on and doesn’t seem to ignite at all. I’ve already changed the fuel volume divider in the course of the troubleshooting. At the top of the volume divider definitely comes fuel, since when the lines are solved, immediately gasoline comes out. However, even after a long time the ignition plugs are not visibly wet. I also noticed that the volume divider’s damper valve after the start attempt could only move very hard. Is this normal? An ignition radio is available on every cylinder according to the Stroboscope lamp. I have checked the control times and the ignition, but it seems to be in the valve valve, and can still be in the cold.

  • After 1 year of Smart-Auszeit again a Smart?

    Hello, I had a Smart BJ 2007 with 71 hp until about a year ago and sold it after about 50,000 km and 5 years of stopping time. I always drove the Smart as a second car for the trips in the city, to work or the simple short distance. Meanwhile I miss the small, reliable Smart which has always brought me well from A to B. So I am faced with the question “should I buy a Smart again?”. However, it should become another engine, because I was not satisfied with the 71 hp. Neither a low consumption, nor really fixed. Therefore it would be possible: – ca. 2011 – Electric Smart – 84 hp or Brabus – or yet a Diesel (low consumption) – Farten to work about 7 km a distance – Short distance sometimes only 1 km – shopping etc. Hope you can help me a bit.

  • Convert AAN to TTRS ignition coils

    Hello… what it’s all about is already in the headline. I would like to give you an instruction… So that I know how the ignition coils have to be occupied. Is this possible already true? 1. switched plus (15). 2. Mass from the power stage where cylinders 1.2,3 are killed, the brown/white cable. 3. 5VDC signal coming from the power stage or the steur device. Cylinder accordingly. 4. Mass, is attached as before to the valve cover. or is it different with the ignition coils from the TT RS. Can it even be that these ignition coils do not fit in with the engine? Bzw. even more than just the ignition coils have to be changed? Should ignition coils have to be with integrated power end stage or?