I had 2 new headlights, which the plastic of the old SW was already a little attacked. I didn’t want to polish, because no good experiences. Now I want to keep the new ones as long as possible. Can someone recommend me a good remedy, what I can do as a kind of “protective layer” on it, so that insects and dirt etc. won’t solidify? Does spray wax, wax for the paint, quick detailers…? So coatings, which are applied after grinding of headlights to get a new UV protection are not a concern for me with completely new SW.
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Buy Omega or???
Hello I don’t know what to do, I can get a Golf 3 with gas system from my father. I have put so much time and money in the omi now and don’t know what to do. 5 months ago following parts were renewed: head seal , timing belts ,clamping roller ,oil filter ,twiddles , front complete brakes , unsw……… I still have 1 engine mount needs to be replaced ,possibly the climate compressor (noise) rear brakes. The track rod has to change grade still track and sturtz. Yes that’s actually ,I don’t know what to do now.The gulf is Bj:1997 LPG I believe and it’s been driving on gas for over 7 years. I honestly love the omi driving is like in the living room ,have now almost all the flaws fixed.What would I still get for the omi if I sold it ? Limo ,2.0 16v with D3 220 tkm e-fenter front climate , central , but ,I don’t know , but ,I don’t know , I’t know ,I’t ,I’m looking to do not know what to do ,I want to do ,I want to do ,I want to do ,I want to do not ,I want to do ,I want to do ,I want to do ,I want to do ,I want to do not ,I want to get ,I want ,I want to get ,I want ,I want ,I want ,I want ,I want to get ,I want to get ,I want ,I want ,I want ,I want ,I want ,I want ,I want to get ,I want ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to get ,I want ,I want to get ,I want ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,I want to ,
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Old red Mercedes – completely matt – how to proceed?
Hello, I have a W201 in red here. Well, it’s not really red anymore. I also freed the car from moss for the time being. I only have a cheap plate machine available. I fought with the bonnet today. The result was not as good as I would have liked it to be. On the fender I polished with red-white, but laboriously ok. The bonnet barely went with it, I passed with Menzerna, went well, but the result as I said could be better. Red white dried immediately, could hardly be polished any more. Do you have any tips? And with what would you seal the red after the polish?
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Omega B – Ez.01 – X30XE – AT – FC->P0758, even after transmission & STG-Tausch
I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry. I’m sorry, I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry. I’m sorry, I’m sorry. I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry. I’m sorry, I’m sorry.
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Omega B FL 3.2L exhaust system
Hello, I’ve had Opel Omega B FL 3,2L since 07.09. I’m looking for a good exhaust system for the car, which has a good sound and is still discreet in appearance. I’m very pleased with good information, I don’t have that much experience in the view. MFG Sebastian
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Status update to my 451er
Hello, the 451 Turbo 62kW has now got the Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit sports suspension. A cross steering front was completely finished, I could have lost a wheel in 2,000km during the ride:O Next week there is another full-day appointment in Vienna, since the pickerl ended in Jili is renewed. So the broken fender in front replaced, I get 2 new headlights. I had a cheap headlight installed after the small wild damage, but it is now also disposed of, because it is really not good! The Oxxo rims are also on it since last week. Since I have given the rear 175 tyres forward and bought 2 195 tyres for summer and winter each, of course the same tire model as the front is installed. My 155 tyres were still quite new, that was easy to entice for me gear and coupling is still made. But we don’t have to decide if that is done next week. Since I didn’t want the aluminum LLK, I have ordered the right thing to do from AIRTEC, but the whole valve is made again.
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Consumption 451 CDI 54PS
Hello everyone here, the diesel consumption of my 54hp CDI fluctuates very strongly. There is everything from 3.3 l to 6.5 l. Only ARAL is refueled at always the same gas station. When I picked him up last November and drove 200 km home (110 km/h-120 km/h) he used 6.5 l to 100 km. At that time he was not in good condition. I think he had stood long or much short distance with it. The diesel was very loud and he was rather lame. Meanwhile, 8tkm later, much has been renewed and it runs very well, overtaking trucks on the highway also goes uphill without any problems. On my way of work. 25km easy distance 90% motorway and around 90 km/h speed he consumes in winter, -5°C to 0°C 5.5 liters and it takes 15 km until it is halfway warm in the car. In summer it is more 3.5 to 4 liters to 100 km and the heating is right after 5 km on the bollard. Is that so normal or there is something I could check out for 2011 The Pure P.P.
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Back painting of the side
Hello friends, I have no idea where to put this post, you can still help me. I have a Mito QV he is very new just 5 months ago and has made it 3000 km on it. Have made the fatal mistake and let me put the original Alfa stickers on the left and right side. I went to a prof. folierer, but he has made it slightly wrong and cut them several times in different places through the paint. The plates are above the wheel box to the right. Have the stickers down and am to the paintr, because every paint doctor told me, there is no need to polish it. The end of the song is now looking like a paintr, on the left side he has got everything out but on the right he is through the clear varnish. Conclusion: Now it had to be painted again, it meant to make it too good?
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Experiences, paint doctor – more expensive than a normal workshop ?
Hello and good day, I’m new here and I first logged in because of the following question: Since I want to have damaged places on my 1 year old car (stone blow radiator hood, scratch-delle door, grinding track bumper back, smaller bird droppings, scratching places on door handles) I was here in Bavaria with a paint doctor. The price of approx. 1.200 Euro threw me over – I didn’t think it was so expensive. However: the hood front has to be repainted, the one door also, as well as the bumper. Of course this is not a cardboard handle. How are your experiences with paint doctors and their prices? I will still ask the SEAT contract dealer (my car=Ibiza), at a free workshop and at a 2nd paint doctor. Let’s see what they so attack. Would I be happy to hear from you here – Greeting ramirez89
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Cold running regulator or minicat (Euro 2)?
Hello, I bought an Audi 80 with a 2-litre machine and 90 hp today. The car is EZ 08/94 and currently still has Euro 1 (E2). I would like to change that. I have already informed myself a little bit. Basically there are two possibilities, cold running controllers and minicat. Due to the price I tend to the latter rather, especially since this should not cause problems in the engine run, which is probably sometimes the case with the KLR. In another forum I also read that one can have this carried free of charge from a certain year of construction at Audi? Can I almost not imagine… I am a bit over-examined at the moment, which is probably better and whether the TÜV acknowledges this at all, if one installs a KLR or minicat itself. Because partly I have read that this is only recognized if this is installed by a workshop. I am just somewhat unsure based on the multitude of information that partly contradicts what I should do now. Can someone give me a more precise information?