Hello people, I hope I can help me a little bit further. And my grandmother asked me if you can’t do something with the “tax”. Now I’ve made a little smart and found out that a G-cat has been retrofitted. At the registration office he has been admitted to Euro 1. Now my question: Is it not even Euro 2 when a G-cat has been retrofitted? or can you do something else dami not charge 300€? Friendly greetings Nico Thank you for your answers
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Request for pricing assessment Audi Coupé 2.0 MJ96
Hello, it’s been a long time since I wrote something last time, now I need your advice. Knowing that now only fans are on the road (or that’s why) I wanted to ask you for a realistic price estimate: I’ve been driving my coupé as a second car for 5 1/2 years and I bought a CLK convertible two weeks ago, now my Audi is registered in the garage. I now have it standing in mobile, fair enough to list all the flaws. I’m not talking about why no one is reporting or something like that, it’s not supposed to be a sales thread, but it’s pretty hard to find out a realistic price in spite of all the available advantages/subs. Here first of all, the link (if not desired, I can post the text here as well):Audi Coupé I’m a bit unwise at the moment if I keep it and “in a few years” get out of it again and build it up or with the knowledge of the condition will certainly not be better to sell it now. That’s, of course, together with the price to be expected, though I’ll get the current car numbers for Blue. What’s a positive greetings?
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Fuel line corroded – no TÜV get 🙁
Hello, was yesterday with the TÜV and unfortunately not passed, because the 3 pipes are corroded from the tank (see pictures). The question is now whether it is enough if one separates the corroded pieces out and replaces the gas hoses and hose clamps so that the examiner is satisfied? Since the pipes are difficult to access (runs above the petrol filter), I could only separate the line to the places marked on the picture.The length to be replaced would be by the many bends and curves, about 70 – 100 cm.
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Ascona C 1,6S
Hi @ll, don’t come around to tell me about an experience that brought tears of emotion into my eyes. Since the Ascona is almost the predecessor of the Vectra, I post this here… Today at the TÜV – I was already finished – a red-brown-colored Ascona C 1.6S drove ahead – NULL Rost, 18 tkm (!!!) on the clock, Built 82 with day approval, original condition !!! Roch in the interior like a new car, NULL Verschleiss, even the ancient Michelin winter tires from 1982 on the original rims – the tires were in TOP condition… The car stood 3/4 of his life in a dry barn and was driven twice with the KM stand 18T to the TÜV – today for the third time. The current owner has after almost 15 years of standstill made the mill fit again (oil change, tank cleaned, new candles, exhaust etc.) and used the car now to drive on Youngtimer-Treffen, in 4 years I can’t be oldtimer and I’ve always wanted to wear it again!
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Which cars have you been driving?
Hello together, at the risk that this thread already exists, I still ask: Which cars did you drive until today, I try to give school grades the first is reliability and the second driving pass / driving feeling(for me 🙂 )I start chronologically, from 1986 : Fiat 128 Tourismo – 6-6Ford Taunus 2.0 – 4-4Opel record 2.0 – 2-2Mazda 323 (1)- 4-2Opel Ascona 1.6 – 4-3Opel Kadett C – 2-1Renault R5 – 2-3Renault R19 – 2-2Opel Kadett E – 5-4Audi 80 B3 – 90PS -22Peugeot 405 SRI – 5-2Audi A4 1.8 autom. 2-3Honda Jazz – 3-4VW Golf 4 – 1.6 – 2-4Mazda 323 BG – 2-2Mazda Xedos 2.0 – 2-1Opel Signum 2.2 – 2-2My current AudiG 1.8 – The AudiG 8-2Avant 1.8 – The Audi 4-2Mazda 323 BG – 2-2Mazda 3-2Mazda was used for all of you.
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Omega B heating valve
Hello together and a happy new year! I have a problem with the Ommi (2.0 16 V, year 95`, climate). The heating is not really warm, or it is warm, then you turn on the fan, the temperature decreases again. All the signs that the water flow in the heat exchanger is too slow. I then saw that the underpressure hose was not connected to the heating valve, then the thing was quickly removed (my hands have 17 joints per finger) once again over the mudcuffs installed from the factory. Functional test passed, when sucking on the hose closed the part (or opened it on the right, depending on the way of viewing) After the installation still the problem, think of the heating cooler sitting on it, will wash it tomorrow. But now the heat test is passed, when sucking on the hose closed the part (or opened it on the right side of the tube). After the installation I have found a little bit of the tube.
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Grandma took my lead on a flat road
Just before the end of the office the winter breaks out again. Lightning ice under the snow. Drive on the driveway, as suddenly from the right calmly a grandmother, my colleague calls such always nicely ‘dry stick’ takes the lead. I fully into the iron, zero chance, pull the handbrake puts me crosswise and thus prevents the impact. My ABS probably died the shock death. Control light does not shine. Later test brakes behave like a car without ABS from earlier times. Am I mistaken or is the ABS on smooth ice without function? On dry road this has always worked and ratted properly. Greeting Axcell
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but a problem with CTR purchase 🙁 (taxable)
Hi guys! So I decided to buy a CTR again. Now the following problem: Of the amount I get out of my fully-fledged after the accident, 16% VAT. will be deducted… I can get this out again, but ONLY CAN, if I buy the next car from a dealer who can show me the VAT again. A private salesman can’t do that… Unfortunately I had a CTR from Private in sight, but this is now lapsed, because in principle I don’t give away a good 3000€ VAT. I hope you understand that. Another problem: hardly a dealer points out VAT. on a used car… except he makes it more expensive accordingly, which is almost equivalent to a new car somewhere, which I can’t afford from the bit that the fully-fledged car now. Isn’t it really shit somewhere or? Can you possibly deal with it or have already had an experience with it??? Germany is starting to really piss me off….
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Komich…
Hi I removed my nixtaugende KN 57i performance air filter and planted my original air filter box again. so sound-wise eats now again normal as before (from the beginning) … and pull it does well but irgwndhow did I find that the “kick” at 6000 is almost no longer there and the sound also changes as well as not… can that be that the control unit has to adapt itself first or can it be? that with the sound can be already normal, because I still have an exhaust under under which could sound the vtec sound and now overtone, but as said the kick is almost not available… someone has a rat? so the kick was last still there, on the oil can not lie where the oil on the measuring bar is only 2 mm above the minimum limit… (must soon be for customer service)
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STET goes …
the search for a new car has come to an end since yesterday … for exactly four weeks I’ve been looking for and had the most different cars in the short choice. Some have already noticed it in the chat or PN. Now that I have also driven a few samples, it has finally become a (used) 350z …Image 1Image 2Image 3(Note : Pictures were made yesterday on the fast, light incidence etc. could be better … ) The car is animally fun, and I think I will have my pleasure in it. Be assured I will continue to visit the Type R Forum, occasionally write one or the other meaningful or meaningless post and you will certainly continue to see yourself at various events … (HHR, etc.) Greeting, STET