Hello, as it is already in the title, I play with the idea of buying an Audi 100 as a “fun car”. However, I am not yet quite sure how realistic my idea is. The Audi should not serve as a everyday car, but still be reliable. I don’t want to have to worry about whether I will get to my destination with my vehicle or with the yellow angels. In addition to being as stainless as possible (I know this is also a myth with Audi) and regularly maintained vehicle, should it be a saloon with a manual transmission and a mileage of about 160,000. As further equipment would be an air conditioning system, headrests at the rear and a load-through possibility (ski holiday) important. I’m still unconclusively in the motorization. Since my everyday car is a Civic 7 1.7 CTDI, with 220nm and 100hp, the Audi should, as far as possible, have a slightly more sporty driving behaviour. Unfortunately, the 2.2 is very rare. Thus, I would be in question of the 2.3E or 2.6E. The 2.0 ACE. Which of these engines is better choice for reliability, realistic maintenance, maintenance, maybe the 2.0€.
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Smart 450 2001 Electrical Problem – is that still worth it?
Moin, I’ve had a 2001 Smart with original 71 TKM in my family here for 20 years now. I only drove to TÜV every two years for the last few years. Meanwhile, however, the topic of moisture and electronics is so overhand that I think about giving it away. TÜV also has only two months left. But if necessary someone can give me courage, actually I wanted to screw an H-mark on it. The vehicle has moisture topics everywhere (caseroom, footrooms). Moreover, due to the low use of the battery, you have to disconnect it, because after two three weeks it is empty (floating current?). In addition, the instrument lamp also flashes after pulling off the key. Otherwise it still drives well and looks great. The car is in Hamburg. Does someone have a well-meaning advice what I should do? Many greetings
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SMART 451 3 bars and does not start!!!
Hello, At the moment I have a SMART 451 standing with me. The following problem: She drove into a roundabout and in the middle of it he went out, ESP/ABS lamp arrived and the infamous 3 bars came. Don’t start over the key anymore, Werkstatt said Starter was defective. I then brought him to me and see there, at the starter he can start directly. I then read out (see photo). Yesterday times power supply on the control unit checks everything in advance. Then the actuator was removed, he was extended, but could not be controlled with external power supply but no movement of the “bars”. Opened and see there, wave torn off. (See picture) Well my question, can it be already known? Because the error in the ESP control unit (first picture) makes me a bit stubborn. Or turns off the control unit or “emergency mode” if he notices a mistake? Thank you already
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Game over! From the dream of the youngtimer
I’m sorry, but I don’t know what to do. I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry.
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Omega B – Y32SE – After ZR change in the WST. – Vibrating in the stand, Abg. Kontr. blinks, div. FC’s
Hello, I picked up the Omega from a timing belt change again and wanted to drive home. After about 5 minutes driving I noticed at a red traffic light that the car vibrated. I first thought about the automatic, however the problem remained also when I switched to “N”, so rather not the automatic or? The engine fluctuates between 450-600 revolutions. At the next traffic light again the same game, in addition the exhaust gas control lights started to flash. Then I returned to the workshop, error code was read out and the result was: – 0420 catalyst efficiency under limit – 0300 Several cylinders misigned – 0302 cylinder 2 misigned detected – 0306 cylinder 6 misigned Then the spark plugs were switched from the cylinders 2 & 6. When I then picked up the car again at the first best crossing then exactly the same as before. Since someone has an idea what this could be? What also irritates me, that if you e.g. from the stand – in which he still vibrates – it could be quite cleanly accelerated.
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Omega B – Z22XE – completely replace or repair crossbars?
Hello dear community, I was now at the TÜV, which still a few defects come to me was aware, however I wanted to have an opinion about the detected defects in the red bordered area on the picture. I have already seen that there are repererature sets for the crossbars for the crossbars, but I would also need special tools or a self-made tool. Now I also have the possibility to get both crossbars completely new for a very good price. The crossbars are from the company “Monroe”, I mean to have read that which are probably relatively usable, jmd. Experiences? LG
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Omega B – X20XEV – Constantly fluctuating engine temperature indicator?
hello to everyone, maybe someone has an idea: Omega B, BJ 95, 2,0 16 V 136hp, 176000 KM down, timing belts changed, with water pump, (15.01.16) Thermostat changed a year ago for a few days I have used significantly higher engine temperatures than before, otherwise always around the 93 degrees, now mostly around the 95-99 degrees, possibly just above it, fan runs then also, temperature goes down to approx.96/97 degrees, I set the Omega after driving at approx.99 degrees, ignition everything off, and then sets off the ignition again, shows only 1 second later instead of the just 99 degrees only 95 degrees, or during the ride I come to 98/99 Grand, roll at junction, and then normally continue, also there the temperature goes down immediately to approx.95 degrees and then during the ride again high so can be the temperature sensor, or possibly again the thermostat (1 year old) Thanks for your help,
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Voltage regulator cluster instrument different???
Hello, My Temp. & Tank Display has been fluctuating for some time, so I got a voltage regulator for the AI for the friendly one (22€). This should often be the reason for the above mentioned problem. Now I got on it, and when I had the old one out and wanted to use the new one I fell on that the two controllers are different (photo), had to fix even another fixing screw, otherwise I would not have gotten stuck to the new one!! (the supplied one is too short) Question: did the type of Audi give me the wrong one, or was there something changed again in the course of the years? Obviously the new, the temp indicator immediately worked up (this did it just after about a quarter of an hour or not at all, or remained hanging about at 60 Crad). Besides another question: At the AI there are at the top in the middle the control searchers (Bremse oil etc.) there are only three pears in there with me, is that so normal, or missing one? (there was a time in it, if I saw the Kratzine!) (the picture!
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Damage limitation
Hello, I hope I ended up in the right subforum. I’m talking about damage limitation! I’ve inherited a 2006 Focus Mk2, which didn’t get much care in his car life. That means the paint is stained, spangled, the plastic parts discoloured and above all: the underbody completely rusted. I’m driving the Focus now exclusively on short distance (10-20 km), TÜV has recently received it again (but for that also rust spots on the mudguard had to be made). Now the question is: how do I get it best? A complete rust treatment etc. is simply not worth it. In the workshop the rust was roughly removed and a protective agent pinned on it, but I see now that this has already been said goodbye (which was also to be expected). The question is above all: wash, so that salt and dirt comes down quickly and does not cause further damage? Do not wash (except rain), so that there is no more water at any places? Especially bzgl. Unterboden is interested in my opinion. The rust spots on the fender etc. I spray with a regular look, but I don’t know about the same thing about fluid.
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Smart Repair / Polishing – Ford Focus ST 170 – polish for the first time – Feedback
Hello, I want to tell you what I did and look forward to feedback. It was my second time that I polish parts, but for the first time with three passes!. Ford Focus ST 170 BJ 2003 in silver with almost 232,000km! –> more there is on my Motory profile (signature). Because the topic was just up, last week I polished a spotlight. Today the time was enough to tackle one of the biggest scratches at the back left. Wouldn’t have thought that this went out so well. Fliest also went away, fortunately, since the kneading I did not manage to remove it with another car. Products: Kraus 125€ Excent polishing machine, Würth polish and pads from Abbrasiv to Fine in 3 passes (green, blue, orange). Step 1: Greenish laundry (high pressure, rims (3rd bucket), Kärcher foam nozzle FJ10 with Kärcher mix, high pressure, hand wash with 2 buckets), dry with nigrin? Detach and moist microfiberpad 2: Coating with padding with silicone cleaning the same time.