Blog

  • Messe Friedrichshafen

    Moin Moin, first of all a good new year. I just read that at the end of January is a motorcycle fair in Friedrichshafen. Since I’m a re-enterer and now I’m interested in motorcycles and accessories more I would like to know from you whether the trip is worthwhile there. Or is there a better alternative in the Stuttgart room? As I read, the entry is free for those who come with the moped. If the weather should be, I would be there on Sunday 25. Jan. Is one of you going there because it’s a must? Greetings Volker

  • Change rim ball bearings – how?

    Hi guys, so it’s time to change my rear tire. On the advice of various grey eminences here in the forum, I shot a Dyna rim in the bay. With 4.5 x 17 and a 160 pneu, that’s the limit of what can be done on my softail without cutting off the frame booms. Although I’m still tinkering with how to get the thing done with the fender fixture, but I’m sure there’s something else (thread bundle jacks, screws from the inside, etc.) Currently I have jedoc h the question, how do I get the pressed-in bearing out of the rim. As I see it, two bearings are pressed in from each side and in the middle in between is one, h, let’s say axle spacer in between. Problem: I have a 3/4″ axle, the current bearings however have an inner diameter of 25,4mm, so exactly 1″! How tight are the bearings in there? is that an h7 fit or what comparable? I think I can get them out only with a pull-out tool, right? But how The spacer lies flush on the inside of the bearing ring, so that the claws of an ausciher cannot grip. And chase through, the whole axis does not make sense either! Who has done this before? Is there a simple solution (not visible to me at the moment)? … except to go and let it be done !!! Well, I need the suitable spacer anyway, but I just want to get the parts, but do the work myself. Thanks and Greetz Bis then str Eet-jumper

  • Practical tip: On-board socket for charging and for Navi or similar.

    Hello, after I always found the battery charging quite cumbersome (decompose the seat bench, connect the charger), I now enjoyed this part and added it yesterday: www.louis.de/…/index.php?… Just connect to the battery and attach the socket somewhere on the mopped (with me on the frame, below the seat bench, freely accessible), is easy, the result convinced. Now I have an external access to the battery, can recharge quickly and on board power a It’s on sale at Aunt Louise’s.

  • Cash payment vs. financing

    I’ve only recently been mingled into this subforum “Financing.” I came across it by chance and find it very interesting what I’m reading here. I’ve found out that there are, of course, funding supporters, but also opponents. In the camp of supporters there are those who choose funding for various reasons, but are aware of what they’re doing. And then there are those who obviously work for them. I would like to make the following calculation example especially for those who want to think: Let’s assume that someone (person A) wants to buy a new car worth 25,000.- Euro, so typically a well-equipped car of the compact class or the lower middle class, is a wurss. Could also be a younger used car, doesn’t matter. He (or she) already owns a 6-year-old Wa This car has a current value of approx. 7,500.- € and is available as a deposit for the new car. Further financial resources are not available, nothing has been saved. The missing difference of 17,500.- € is to be financed over 3 years. Person B wants to do exactly the same, has also the same used car, but has already saved 17.500.- € and pays cash. Question: What is the financial status of person A and B? after three years? Premises: – Only the difference should be considered, i.e. the 17.500.- € advantage, with which person B enters the race, are then deducted again. – The saving on person B was possible, because person B at the beginning of the car career cycled for several years, when person A already drove the first car (…or B has driven an ancient grotto for several years, or what do I know, doesn’t matter). – Both people have always otherwise ex Act the same net income! – However, for the next 3 years Person B will invest exactly the amount that Person A is involved in financing into an open real estate fund with a guaranteed return after tax of 5% (not taking into account expenditure surcharges). i.e. the monthly additional charge should be exactly the same for both persons. – Person B should have advantages over Person A in the negotiation of the actual purchase price as cash payer. – To compensate, we assume that in return Person A can finance the vehicle at 0.0%. Person A: – Starting status Used car value 7,500.- € – Monthly burden due to financing: 17,500.- / 36 = 486.- € – Status after 3 years: Used car with 50% residual value= 12,500.- € – Asset growth in 3 years so: 12,500 – 7,500.- € Person A has after 3 years an improved asset by 5,000.- € person B: – initial status used car value 7,500.- € + equity 17.500.- € – monthly saving rate 486.- € in real estate fund/ return 5% – status after three years: used car with 50% residual value= 12,500.- €. Capital in the fund approx. (interest rate not taken into account on a monthly basis): (((((486*12*1.05)+486*12)*1,05+486*12)*1,05 = 19,305,- €. increase: 19,305,- – 17,500,- € 1,805,- – asset growth in 3 years: 12,500 – 7,500 + 1, 805= 6,805,- €. After 3 years, person B has an improved asset status by 6,805.- €. Thus, after 3 years, person B stands by 6,805,- – 5,000,- = 1,805.- € better there than person A, although person A has financed 0.0%! Over a longer period of time, the whole would look quite different, since because of the interest rate effect, person B with its financial status exponentially distances itself from the status of person A. The above invoice is also very ko The reality is that the result is even more in favour of person B. The wealth growth of person A will also be eaten up quite precisely by inflation, i.e. it will not be able to afford a better car next time due to the fact that it now has 5,000,- € more. Its newer will cost about 30,000,- €. Again, both people earn the same thing, drive the same car and otherwise have about the same amount of money. I don’t want to demonise the financing! You can also come up with the idea, even though you have the equity to finance anyway (I have already done so myself), because you expect better rates on the capital market (as in the example) or on the stock market, or because you want to remain liquid, for example. However, this should be reserved for those who are familiar with this gambling. However, for me financing is always a temporary one. r process, and never a permanent solution (according to the motto: from one financing to the next). The banks among you may forgive me my superficial calculation; it should be a model of vision. I am an electrical engineer. So…and now take me apart!!!!!!! Greeting Stuby

  • New car with AUTOMATIC for around 13,000 + disabled discount

    Hello, my parents would like to buy a new car and are currently caring with the Skoda Fabia. I’m now trying to find some alternatives to Fabia that meet their requirements. One of the main requirements is the automatic circuit and the price that should be around 13k. I’ve already searched various sites but I haven’t found a list of which vehicles in this case would be in question, maybe someone here has an overview. The second point is the disability discount (SBG 50%). Here there is a 15% discount from Skoda. My question: how to proceed with price negotiations? First negotiate a normal discount and then talk about the disability discount, or put the cards on the table from the beginning? How many % can you realistically calculate summarum? Thanking for all the hints..

  • My first car sale! Please give me your opinion!

    Hello, I am close to my first private car sale and would like to ask your opinion regarding the processing. 1. Advertising at mobile.de and autoscout24.de 2. Until the final sale the car remains registered to me to grant the test drive. 3. On test drives I am there. 4. Buyer is interested and we directly agree on a purchase contract (e.g. from ADAC). 5. An appointment is made regarding the transfer with the buyer. 6. transfer of 50-100 EUR (if the buyer jumps off after all, which then at least the expenses are covered) 7. On the next working day the car is logged off and the signs are removed from the car. Furthermore, the registration office and the insurance is informed about the sale. 8. Buyer comes with a short identification mark on the agreed date and there is a money transfer. Then I hand over the papers and wish a safe return journey. Have I forgotten anything else ? cu un_titled

  • Piaggio TPH defective. I don’t know anymore!

    Hello community. As already written. My Typhoon doesn’t want any more. I’m admitted > With the nerves at the end. I think I’ve tested pretty much everything there is to test. I’m curious if anyone else has any idea. So – It’s about a Piaggio Typhoon (TPH) year 2004 with 19500 km on the clock. He spings. Also accepts a bit of gas. Accompanied also on approx. 15 KM/h. If now the Choke closes the nozzle after approx. 1 minute he loses stak in power until he abst What I’ve already checked! – Carburettor cleaned 3 times. Bemser cleaner – Press air – – New candle – New CDI – New membrane – Behind the Variomatics cover everything is “dry” – Intake nozzle is not brittle – Exhaust piped. It easily allows air through – cylinder disassembled. No Riefen – Piston rings O.K. The engine was running I moistened all rubber parts with brake cleaner. No speed change. Compression 6.2 bar. No great value. But should be enough. Now bin ic h completely with my whiteness at the end. Does anyone still have an idea what the box has? Thank you 🙂

  • Rex RS 450 does not start -.-* Need urgent help..

    Hello all, I have a nice Rex RS 450 and have a tiny problem. xD The little one does not start as described above. He does not give the normal start sounds of himself and starts. I have already done the following: – spark plug tested and changed (Zündfunke is present ) – carburetor cleaned and a new one installed (because the old defect was ) – battery replaced with a new one – the inlet and outlet valve re-set (Inlet: 0.05 and outlet: 0.10 ) -Hab e checks if there is water in the engine as well as if the piston rings are still top (no water and rings are top ) -The petrol filtered and an oil change made And now I am with my Latin also at the end. Could you perhaps help me to get him to run again? The following, he stood about 1 1/2 years in the barn and is built in 2006. Greeting Dominik ;D

  • Aquablade

    Had seen an aquablade (or something similar) on TV a while ago. So such a Kunsstofflippe, with which you can wipe the water off the car (similar to a windscreen wiper) after washing. Should be easier and faster than with the leather and also have no disadvantages compared to the leather. Just where to buy? Are there also different: What is good?

  • The two digits of the multi-range oil

    Hello everybody, I’m just posting this question in this forum, because that’s probably the most appropriate thing. Oil is somehow also part of vehicle maintenance, just from the inside I’ve tried to get smart from the two digits of a multi-range engine oil (e.g. 10W-40). So far I’ve found out from Wikipedia that the first number probably indicates what viscosity the oil has when it’s cold (ca. -18°C, is that right??), the W stands for winter, and the second number gives the viscosity of the oil at approx. 100°C. The higher the viscosity of the oil, the thinner it is, right? And thinly liquid the oil should be, or does that deceive me?? If so, how can it be? Why is 5W-XX oil better than 15W-XX oil, if it is actually thinner in cold?? I have read some of the additives and synthetic oil that should protect the engine inside, but at the same time a low viscosity should be less fuel consumption of the engine before the W. But how, if the oil is actually thicker than one with a higher number. I stand absolutely on the hose with it. Can anyone explain this to me?? merendo